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About travertt

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  1. travertt

    CDI unit

    if you're capable of it... 1- Learn some manners!!.....and no, editing out the offending words in your moronic response does not count! 2- Try to realize that despite what mummy told you for so many years...you aren't the center of the universe.
  2. travertt

    Bad TPS? Vid inside

    Yeah, that's pretty weird. My 2012 XCF-W would be basically identical to yours in terms of TPS...its even adjusted to .63.like yours. Apart from a bad TPS, I can't imagine what would cause that. Can you borrow a similar TPS from a friend or a friend of a friend and swap it out? I think the TPS was similar, if not identical in many 2012-2013 models.
  3. On my 2012 350 XCF-W I went 200 hours before I changed the OEM unit for a Dirt Tricks one. The motivation for changing it was that the OEM unit appeared to be getting noisier over time....so I just thought it made sense to be proactive after 200 hours. My understanding is that the OEM units are well made and do a good job...but over time tend to wear internally....and, under certain conditions may not be putting proper tension on the cam chain at start up. The Dirt Tricks unit has an excellent reputation and the spring provides for proper tension under low oil pressure situations....sounded perfect to me. The unit itself is a breeze to install...but on my bike its a real PIA because you have to remove the right side rad in order to have enough space to remove and re-install. Hopefully on the 2019 they have fixed that design flaw. This difficulty in access is also what swayed me to use the Dirt Tricks unit...it is self adjusting so no need for me to hassle with access in order for it to stay in spec. And yes, I would agree that that there certainly is plenty of typical overblown internet BS surrounding the allegedly dangerous and catastrophic nature of running the OEM unit. It is not an imminent ticking time bomb...but it is something to be aware of and addressed as needed.
  4. travertt

    500exc Speedo parts?

    This is what I would do. Dry it slowly and carefully until all signs of moisture are gone.....then epoxy or even JB weld the crack. If that fails...then go to plan B... finding a used one or a discounted one on e-Bay and scavenge the bit you need. The best way to dry out electronics is to take a cup of dried rice and just bury the unit in it for a couple of days. The rice is so dry it just sucks all moisture out of anything in its environment. I salvaged a cell phone that was dropped in a lake with this method.
  5. Yes....that's a great function to have. My scenario has more to do with broken starter (sprag gear or whatever)...and then being stuck if you can't kick it and bump start is not an option
  6. You actually think the guy you ride with...who's in the mud bog or sand pit with you... is going to be able to tow you...good luck with that!! After 30 minutes of that wasted effort...the 30 seconds of effort you could have spent using the kick start to rescue yourself, is going to look pretty sweet....especially to your buddies who (if given a choice) would rather not have to solve bad situations of your making. I prefer to rely on myself to be able to get things done. and not need to put my riding buddies in the usually tiring and dirty position of having to rescue me....but that's just me. Guess i shouldn't get my panties in a knot...Now that's deep meaningful thinking!! And don't even get me started on snow bikes...which can't be moved more than foot or so unless the motor is running. There are people in this world whose riding situations are different from yours, and to whom a kick start is a very valued option....strange that your cannot see that. No body is telling you that you should not ride without one....what I am tying to say is that there are plenty of riders to whom having a kick start is a meaningful safety aspect when riding under their local conditions. That that doesn't seem to sit well with you is surprising. In sunny and dry California riding with a few buddies....I agree....a kick start would be very low on the list of things you need to have. Riding in rain with lots of extended deep mud bogs....or in deep sand wallows....or in deep snow drifts on a snow bike....these are all situations where a kick start can just about save you A#@....not to mention saving the whole ride for everyone. Just because it doesn't happen to you....does not not mean it doesn't happen.
  7. Yeah, that's pretty much true....but if your starter packs it in...and your deep in a mud bog or in sand and you can't push start....your mini jump box won't be of much help. The kick starter is definitely the least used part on any of the modern dirt bikes....but when circumstance dictates you need it...you're gonna be very happy you have it. Personally, I'm a fan...I'm not a good enough rider for the small amount of reduced weight (about the same as three liters of gas) to make a difference in my abilities. But when I'm well and truly screwed by terrain and circumstance....my kingdom for a kick starter. Is your riding ability noticeably improved after you've burned thru the first three liters of gas in the tank? Just my opinion.
  8. travertt

    2016 500exc fuel pump failed

    Well...your experience differs from mine...so I guess that's why my thinking differs from yours....that's kinda how all this human individuality thing works. No doubt if I had similar nasty riding experiences to yours, I would likely share your opinion....which I do by the way, when it comes to the rear wheel bearings....I have to change mine every year (lots of deep muddy water) but luckily that one rarely leaves you stranded. On the other hand, my six year old black gas filter has never given me even a hint of a problem...same with the guys I ride with...guess we all got lucky. There's lots we could go back and forth on regarding this but it would be far more fun, productive and less confrontational over a few beers, than in this (nuance free) forum. May all your filters be beige, your clutch engaged (or not) and your rides end at the trail head. Cheers
  9. travertt

    2016 500exc fuel pump failed

    Yes...I stand corrected...I should have said most electric motors instead of all electric motors. But I stand by the basics of what I was trying to say. That the design is not poor and that particulate coming off the motor brushes is quickly filtered out, that the pump is not "barfing" itself out and that regardless of whether the filter medium was housed in plastic or wood...the result would not change. Now...should KTM move to more expensive brushless motors...well if the only reason was to remove the black particulate that is currently being harmlessly and efficiently collected by the filter...i guess that would be up for debate. But you can be sure that KTM would immediately pass the added cost on to the buyer and make an already very expensive machine...a little more (not much I know) expensive. Now if the case could be made that it would greatly improve reliability, longevity, durability etc...then that's a different story, and might very well be worth it.
  10. travertt

    2016 500exc fuel pump failed

    Well..."poor pump design"...I'm not so sure. All electric motors have brushes made out of soft carbon that ride on the commutator ring section of the armature...they all wear over time and give off tiny carbon particles. So it seems to me that a design that allows the inevitable carbon particles to be captured immediately by the filter medium (paper/fiber) is in fact a very good design. Whether the filter medium itself is housed in metal or plastic is completely irrelevant to the creation of the carbon particles....metal or plastic, you get the carbon particles. The fuel pump is not "barfing" itself out....the carbon particles are merely the normal, expected consequence of a soft block of carbon rubbing against the metal of the commutator ring.
  11. travertt

    Oil level before/after ride

    I'm usually too beat up and dirty to do an oil change after a ride, but I always thoroughly warm up the bike before I do one. Also to get the most possible old oil out, after a few minutes of draining (I have not yet touched the screen or the oil filter) I hold down the kill button and press and hold the starter for about 5 seconds. The engine does 10-20 revs under no load and a few ounces more of old oil comes out the drain. No stress on any parts (they are all still slicked with oil) and a slightly more complete oil drain. With regard to level...my bike is an older 350...2012 XCF-W and the manual says the level should be exactly in the middle of the sight glass with a cold engine. With the engine at operating temperature and after being shut off for 1 minute, it says the oil should be between the middle and upper edge of the sight glass...so looks like they have adjusted their instructions over the years with regard to level. A little too much oil won't hurt the bike...but I have always found that filling it up close to what you expect it needs, and then running it for a minute, and then letting it sit for a bit and then adding additional oil a bit at a time until its where you want it, will give you good consistent results with your level. BUT...to speak directly to your issue with the bike showing a level over the sight glass four hours after a full ride when it was only at one quarter up the glass before the ride...I've never seen that before. Have you tried starting it up again for a minute or two and then check the level again? If so, after the re-start and warm up is it still over the glass?
  12. travertt

    2019 Gas gas (torrot) txe

    Shouldn't they be changing the company name to Amp Amp....or ...Volt Volt...or...Watt Watt?......Capacitor Capacitor just seems a little clumsy.
  13. travertt

    Ktm 500 fuel stabilizer.

    I have to store my FI bike every winter (Wah!!)...and here's what I do... and I have never had a problem (over the many years) come spring. Rather than empty your tank...you should fill your tank (ethanol free if possible) and then add the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer. Then run your engine for a couple of minutes to move the stabilizer thru the fuel system....then park it. Every few weeks, fire it up for a minute or so just to keep any varnish build up from accumulating on the injector. When the time comes for the first ride of the season...fire it up and go ride....easy, cheap, effective and worry free. Condensation in empty tank space due to temperature fluctuations, can cause moisture to accumulate in the tank...definitely not what you want. A full tank eliminates the air space and pretty much eliminates that source of potential problems. Add stabilizer and keep the tip of the injector clean...and you have no issues.
  14. travertt

    2016 500 EXC has too much power

    +1 Well said Horgh! That's one of my favorite phrases...thank you Frank Herbert and "Dune". Don't mean to "nerd out" here..but below is the entire quote.. “I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.”
  15. travertt

    2013 500 exc smoking on startup

    My experience is if it blows white smoke..its burning coolant.......if its blowing blue smoke its burning oil. You may have a compromised head gasket...allowing coolant into the combustion chamber. RE: moisture: Are you sure its actually burning something? A cold exhaust system can cool exhaust gases down to the point where the moisture which is naturally present in the exhaust gas condenses and blows out the muffler looking white. When in fact all it is is condensation like seeing your breath on a cold day. Once the exhaust system warms up...the white condensation (water vapour) goes away. Just like a car on a cold winter morning....they "smoke" for a minute or two then it goes away...all it is is condensed water vapour.