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Everything posted by FRECNDY

  1. I'm a big guy, and have been concerned that the broken kick starter may happen to me many miles from the truck. I read several older threads on this, thought I'd put the answers in one place, accessible with less reading. I'm not claiming to have come up with all this information, but I'm too lazy to go back and find the original post with each bit of information and assign credit. It all came from TT guys Problem: In 2002, the kick start shaft was reduced in diameter from 20mm to 18mm, and made hollow, matching the YZ250F. It's lighter now. It also has a tendency to break at the hole drilled through it for the spring. When it breaks, one end of the axle is unsupported, so the gear position is not controlled. There's also an 18mm hole in the side of the trans that oil will get sprayed out of and dirt will enter if you try to bump start it and ride. The engine side cover may or may not be cracked when the shaft breaks. Facts: The kick start shafts were all the same from 1989 to 2001. The shaft itself is listed as a standalone part from Yamaha for 1998 and earlier bikes. 1999-2001 parts guides list the entire assembly only, as do 2002 and newer. The side cover supports the outer end of the shaft, so a 1999-2001 side cover and oil seal must be used with a 1989-2001 shaft. All inboard components are the same. The shaft's splined outboard end is larger, so the 2002+ kick knuckle won't fit. The 1999-2001 kick lever knuckle is bigger, and so is the post. The screw and ball bearing are in different locations, so you can't just bore the 2002+ lever to go on the earlier knuckle. The earlier lever has a different bend and is also shorter. The end doesn't fit into the notches for the tip on desert tanks. However, it was discovered by CaptDan that the YZ400F-426F-450F knuckle and lever will fit the 01 shaft, thus making the kickstart the same or similar to the original. (I assume this means the length and shape are the same as the 2002+ YZ250 knuckle, so it will mate up perfectly with the frame geometry, oversize tanks, etc.) So, the preventive solution bolt-on parts combo is: 1989-2001 shaft only (all other bits can be reused, or the shaft can be sourced as an assembly including everything) 1999-2001 side cover and oil seal YZ400F-426F-450F lever assembly with knuckle The scope of this post is a bolt-on solution. I don't mean to get into possibilities of machining or repairing the side cover, modifying or machining earlier shafts to fit later kickers, etc. Basically, something that anyone with basic R&R skills and tools can successfully install in their garage. It's possible I've misinterpreted or misremembered something I read, so anyone with information to correct this, please post. I'll edit this as many times and for as long as the site lets me in order to get it right, without people having to read through many pages of discussion, speculation, trial and error, and just gnashing of teeth about the problem.
  2. Had the silly idea of putting some street rubber on my bike, so I've been searching all over the web looking for a suspension formula that makes sense. Not found it. Incredibly, nobody who posts online seems to be able to put together any sort of comprehensive setup recommendation. Some places you'll see recommended sag ranges that work out to a 25mm spread from high to low. On dirt, people sweat 2-3mm and say the bike is all screwed up if it's not perfect within that much. I'm sure you could have a spring rate and static/rider sag settings that fit within the recommendation windows you find for SM and still be completely out to lunch. And recommendations or reports of "This is what I do and it works" virtually never include both static and rider sag, or both shock and fork measurements. There will be whole threads discussing one or the other, but not both at the same time. Most frustratingly, there are a ton of threads by riders who are considered competent and are clearly well respected by their peers that start off, "Here's how to really get your suspension dialed in: Find a tuner who really knows how to set up supermoto bikes and hand him a bag of money. Then play with your clickers and make sure your riding technique isn't all jacked and causing the bike to not do what you want." That's followed by two pages of people saying, "+ a million" and "you're so smart!" &%$#@!? So is it the case that radically different suspension setups work just fine for supermoto, or are 99.9% of riders at a level where their setup can be far from ideal and nobody notices? Are the tuners who know what they're doing not telling anybody? Are there not technically minded, experienced and successful riders willing to help others? I just don't get it. I can't remember looking into an area of something technology based and finding such a lack of useful information. Is it because it's too simple? Is it just correct to use, say, MX sag settings and the spring rates that get me there?

    Sam Houston National Forest

    Is this cleanup doable on foot? I won't be able to get on the bike for awhile, but would be happy to show up and help out if hiking it works.
  4. I'm thinking about buying an Omega neck brace. The best price I can find is from Cli-MAX Riding Gear. Everywhere else seems to be $260-270, they are $220. Pretty much all online retailers have free shipping with orders that size. Seems like a great deal, but with apparently pretty tight MAP (minimum advertised price) policies in effect, also potentially shady. Searched and didn't find any threads mentioning them. Anybody deal with them? Cli-MAX Riding Gear & Motorcycle Accessories Waco, TX 76712 Sales-Dept@Cli-MAXRidingGear.com (469) 675-3044 http://www.cli-maxridinggear.com

    Poll: are black rims overused?

    Yup. You can keep an old, well-ridden, mechanically maintained bike looking good longer with silver rims. If you're a pro and the team throws down for new rims every time you scratch some color off, then they never get worn to the point that the side is just kinda generally sand blasted, and you probably have some other color that matches your primary sponsor's graphics.
  6. Cycra put some spam in my email about their new product line. http://store.cycraracing.com/rehacorapa.html Anybody use them yet?

    Yamaha YZ250 (2002)


    Drop-down list needs a WR300 option. Bike shown in thumbnail was automatically put there by TT. It's not mine.

    Yamaha YZ250 2002

    Drop-down list needs a WR300 option. Bike shown in thumbnail was automatically put there by TT. It's not mine.
  9. "A man with no sense of humor..."

    why do people hate me

    I grew up in a really white town, but there were two sisters whose dad was black and whose mom was a blonde. Her maiden name went back to the founding fathers of the town in the 1800s. Every day, their awesomeness made nobody have any reason to care about their ethnicity. Just be the best person you can be, do your best at everything. The losers will fall by the wayside soon enough.
  11. Spend some time reading up on the motors. Getting the head cut correctly is key. The details are well published on the web. Pretty simple if you have the tools. Porting seems to just be extra, the head is mandatory and cleans up most of the problems to a fully acceptable level. You're right the hard part is the pipe. You'll need to mod the frame in the yoke area one way or another. I would lean toward moving the yoke up to make room for a center pipe or down to make room for the side pipe. Don't just hack on it to clear. Then you'll need to make the rest of the pipe work. I was thinking about 490 in a modern frame a lot last year. I suspect the highboy pipes would clear the rearward part of the frame (not the subframe) better on a YZ250 frame than on a 4T frame. Figure out what tank, seat and side panels to run and how to mount them. Or you'll need a custom low-boy pipe built. Which would likely be the easiest solution, but you're trusting a lot of money to a pipe builder, and hope he gets along with the stock porting or your engine builder. All very complicated to manage.

    Fully white YZ250

    Not my bike, not even my pics. Just some I found on the web and had saved on my hard drive for inspiration.
  13. No motors, but it's awesome bada$$ery in the dirt. http://youtu.be/e1yeDW3dHdw http://youtu.be/dOKcEl1hCo0

    2003 YZ160

    I have a TE610 and a YZ250. The big Husky is about 100 pounds heavier than the YZ, and you feel every pound on the trail. On the other hand, the Husky will climb up darn near anything just by pointing it uphill and opening the throttle. The YZ is going together as a WR295, which I hope will be the perfect trail bike for me at 6'4" and 250 lb. But that doesn't keep me from looking for cheap KDXs and CR125s with blown top ends on CL. If I didn't have a compulsion to build stuff, I'd probably just buy a KTM 200 XC-W. Doesn't have quite the gearing spread of the KDX, but should be a lot easier to ride on a trail than a 125 and just as light. If I was your size and planned to focus on the track, I'd definitely buy an '06 or newer YZ125.

    california plated dirtbike , dmv posible issues?

    You actually need a model year 2002 or older bike for a non-emissions bike to have a legit Cali plate. The cutoff to get a bike plated was 1/31/04, but it still had to be an '02 or older bike. That's why '03 XRRs are so cheap in Cali, and why the last few sat in dealerships unsellable for a couple years. But that still won't keep them from eventually scrubbing the reg list and sending you a GFY letter if you weren't the owner of the bike before the cutoff. I'd probably get the newest emissions-legal KTM that you like and can afford.

    california plated dirtbike , dmv posible issues?

    Officially, someone who owned a bike prior to the cutoff and maintains the tags is in good shape. But the tags won't transfer on a bike that wasn't emissions-legal when built. You might get lucky and get it through your local DMV, have it miss being caught in Sacramento, and actually get a registration. But sooner or later, they will periodically scrub the registration list, and you will get a letter in the mail notifying you that your plate is worthless and inviting you to get a green sticker. Happened to lots of people on TT, happened to a buddy of mine. That's the only reason I got a TE610 instead of an XRR. (Two years ago, when I got the bike, I lived in Cali.) Here in TX, I can plate the two-stroke if I want to.

    2006 yz250 bolts (greenish black)

    The green zinc has a chromate top coat containing hexavalent chrome. It is extremely toxic (the pollution at issue in the Erin Brockovich deal) and has been basically outlawed in the European community. Manufacturers have moved this upstream, and if you want to sell to a vehicle manufacturer that does business there, you pretty much can't use it anywhere in the products you supply. Especially for a "one spec" bike like the YZ250. It was initially a technical challenge, but technology has responded and there are now non-toxic coatings with performance on par with the old ones that contained hex chrome. Cadmium is also pretty gnarly, but it is still used in aerospace because it is supremely effective and we have this thing about airplanes falling out of the sky due to corrosion. Read up on cadmium, and you'll wash your hands after handling it. If you really want those old bolts, look for "bolt kits" from people parting older bikes on fleabay.

    Come on yamaha...

    Adam understood what I was getting at. Making a WR220 would be pointless with a five-speed. Reducing the power would be to make the necessarily narrower gears live when you fit six of them in the five-speed case. I was playing with numbers some more, and realized that a stroke slightly shorter than EG does on the 125 to make it a 155 (so we know it fits in the cases), combined with the YZ250 bore, puts you right at 200cc, just a hair under to keep it legal in under-200cc off-road classes, if any of those still exist. It ends up really dang close to where the KDX200 was for bore/stroke relationship. To do that on the 125, you'd likely need new case castings to work with the larger jug and porting layout, maybe a couple dozen new part numbers or so in total. The vast majority of the 125 bottom end could carry over, and you should be able to use a bunch of YZ250 part numbers as well, maybe even the head casting (with different machining, obviously). Most of the case machining would be the same as either the 125 or the 250, so it could probably be run on the same work holding. It would all bolt into the 125 frame just like a 125 does. And all the big tanks that are available for the 125/250 now would work. The best-handling off-road/singletrack bike in the history of the universe is within reach if Yamaha wanted to make it happen.
  19. There are whole tent cities all along the LA river. Right next to the 710 freeway, in plain sight of tens of thousands of commuters daily.

    Come on yamaha...

    Would be nice if they did a WR250/300. The additional machining of the case would be done in one pass, maybe ten seconds or less with another tool loaded in the changer. Or a 200 version of the 125 with a wider-ratio six-speed, though that might require new engine castings for the bigger bore and stroke. Different frame cradle probably wouldn't be that big a deal. Imagine a KDX that handled like a YZ125! Either of these would show they were serious about 2Ts and supporting off-road. What if they destroked the 250 to about 220 to dial the power back, then stuffed the cases with six WR gears? Modern-ish KDX. Would anyone buy it?

    Sam Houston National Forest

    Houston Yamaha up on FM1960 has OR stickers. Also sell Kawasaki and KTM.

    Sam Houston National Forest

    Just gassed up the Husky, set tires, and checked my gear. White GMC van, blue and yellow Husky with a Baja Designs race light and a plate.Got maps printed.

    Sam Houston National Forest

    What are the chances of it having dried out by this Sunday?

    wr gears in yz250

    I've thought and researched a lot on that, and if you want WR gears on a 125-sized woods bike, I think the best option is a KDX hybrid, or just buy a KTM 200 EXC-W. KDX has a wider gear spread 1st-6th than the KTM. I'm not aware of an internal parts interchange that works from YZ to WR in the Yamaha family. I just checked a bunch of stuff, and the only YZ125 p/n that cross over to anything other than a kart motor are bearings that are used in many other bikes, so no pointers to any opportunities.


    George is just George.