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30x26

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  1. 30x26

    230 Wheel Travel

    from 2.75 to 3 inches, with rider dressed to ride
  2. 30x26

    FCR Air Jets Main/Slow & AP timing

    i'd start from R diameter. emr, jd red, ncyr...... pilot 40-42. for testing purpose , with proper pilot jet and needle installed , a drz can run at 38mph on flat paved road, without any desire to kill you and your family
  3. 30x26

    FCR39 idling at 6500 rpm

    does yellow intake adapter allow air to be sucked through 100 and 200 air jets
  4. 30x26

    ... and still another jetting question

    100% sure that 42 + emN + 100 air jet would be still rich for a fcr MX. by miles. jd suggested 42 pilot paired with red needle . supposed diameter of that needle is around R.... during summer 155 is enough for you, 152.5 if you often go to the mountains
  5. 30x26

    FCR Air Jets Main/Slow & AP timing

    install a needle with proper root diameter and you'll be able to run an usual size of pilot jet
  6. 30x26

    Bottom end torque

    check jetting. commonly suggested needlee is often way too rich from 0 to 1/4 throttle
  7. 30x26

    5w20 fork oil equivalent

    i do not know the reason of his choice but i suppose it's not that, most of suspension oils have equal or higher viscosity index.
  8. 30x26

    My FCR MX thread

    imho rich at idle. for fcr-mx 38-40 pilot is common with R needle and 100 air jet
  9. 30x26

    Mikuni TM28-01 Pumper Carb

    popping at closed throttle comes from: pilot air jet and/or pilot jet and/or diameter of the needle, moving the clip is not the solution. some popping is normal and good sign of properly tuned bike. play with the fuel screw , 20 seconds after the start it must idle much lower than hot . immediatly running near good idle is sign of too rich condition. it's a carb without air cut valve, you have too choose between popping and proper mixture. why did you remove the airbox? it's nice to see , not to ride and maintain
  10. 30x26

    Hesitation running quarter to half throttle.

    no need to warm up on the side stand. start it and ride slowly for first 5minutes. after at least 10 minutes at medium pace you can evaluate jetting or other problems. bike needs 10-15 minutes to get full temperature. some hesitation when cold is normal , almost necessary to work properly when hot
  11. 30x26

    Stumble/jitter at 65+ mph after JD jet kit

    this is part of your problem too, because keintech extended screw has a richer profile. jd says stock screw at 2.5 turns and 25 pilot. with extended screw you need 0.5-1 turn less . at your temperature and elevation imho your starting point should be 25 and keintech at 1.5 from closed.
  12. 30x26

    Stumble/jitter at 65+ mph after JD jet kit

    difference between blue and red is about 1 clip , with red noticeably leaner in the first third of the throttle. at 3000, with temperatures going up, i think it will be a battle between blue at 3rd and red at 4th. main jet between 150 and 155. try blue at 3rd and play with the fuel screw untill you get the best possible performance at low openings of the throttle. then switch to red at 4th, maybe opening the screw a little, and choose which is better for you. do you have 25 pilot and stock fuel screw?
  13. 30x26

    Stumble/jitter at 65+ mph after JD jet kit

    restart from standard jetting suggested by james dean: blue needle at 3rd and 155 main. blue at last clip and 160 is way too rich for your mods and elevation
  14. 30x26

    JD red vs blue needle

    if you still have the air cut valve in place just install the new needle. if you removed it you have two options: 1-joined ports 2-capped ports and 100 air jet into the bell
  15. 30x26

    JD red vs blue needle

    at 3000ft you can try the red at 1 clip richer than old blue. you may also need a richer position of the pilot screw. difference between red ad blue was the diamerter and the shape in the first third of the throttle (red was leaner) 160 should be fine. with emn needle you need a smaller main jet ( 155 or 152.5)
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