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About 30x26

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  1. check jetting. commonly suggested needlee is often way too rich from 0 to 1/4 throttle
  2. i do not know the reason of his choice but i suppose it's not that, most of suspension oils have equal or higher viscosity index.
  3. imho rich at idle. for fcr-mx 38-40 pilot is common with R needle and 100 air jet
  4. popping at closed throttle comes from: pilot air jet and/or pilot jet and/or diameter of the needle, moving the clip is not the solution. some popping is normal and good sign of properly tuned bike. play with the fuel screw , 20 seconds after the start it must idle much lower than hot . immediatly running near good idle is sign of too rich condition. it's a carb without air cut valve, you have too choose between popping and proper mixture. why did you remove the airbox? it's nice to see , not to ride and maintain
  5. no need to warm up on the side stand. start it and ride slowly for first 5minutes. after at least 10 minutes at medium pace you can evaluate jetting or other problems. bike needs 10-15 minutes to get full temperature. some hesitation when cold is normal , almost necessary to work properly when hot
  6. this is part of your problem too, because keintech extended screw has a richer profile. jd says stock screw at 2.5 turns and 25 pilot. with extended screw you need 0.5-1 turn less . at your temperature and elevation imho your starting point should be 25 and keintech at 1.5 from closed.
  7. difference between blue and red is about 1 clip , with red noticeably leaner in the first third of the throttle. at 3000, with temperatures going up, i think it will be a battle between blue at 3rd and red at 4th. main jet between 150 and 155. try blue at 3rd and play with the fuel screw untill you get the best possible performance at low openings of the throttle. then switch to red at 4th, maybe opening the screw a little, and choose which is better for you. do you have 25 pilot and stock fuel screw?
  8. restart from standard jetting suggested by james dean: blue needle at 3rd and 155 main. blue at last clip and 160 is way too rich for your mods and elevation
  9. if you still have the air cut valve in place just install the new needle. if you removed it you have two options: 1-joined ports 2-capped ports and 100 air jet into the bell
  10. at 3000ft you can try the red at 1 clip richer than old blue. you may also need a richer position of the pilot screw. difference between red ad blue was the diamerter and the shape in the first third of the throttle (red was leaner) 160 should be fine. with emn needle you need a smaller main jet ( 155 or 152.5)
  11. you need a larger main jet , in europe the unrestricted version came from suzuki with 165 main. 5th clip is fine. i'm not sure i understood other numbers. 45 = pilot jet ? 100= pilot air jet? 85= ?? stock came with 45 pilot , 60 pilot air jet (into the bell) , 90 another pilot air jet working with air cut valve system (external, on the side of the carb). did you remove the ACV? how? are the two ports closed or joined?
  12. which stock carb needle??? do you have a code?
  13. yes. set the height of the slide before reinstalling the carb, turning the black knob
  14. ok, it's extremely important that when you install the new jetting (i'd try 40 first, 1.5turns at the screw ) you completely lower the slide and then rise it only 2-3mm. the common mistake is a too high slide to compensate for rich jetting at idle. i bet that you will find a much higher slide
  15. buy a 40 too. mine liked 38/40. it was a brand new husqvarna fcr-mx, direct buy from husqvarna racing department. it came with R needle + 38 pilot + 100 air + 35 leak