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About 30x26

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  1. what the reason for buying an obsolete engine with low performance? it's low maitenance, low costs and as much as possible time spent riding the bike. it's not a rocket, even racing engines with much more power do not ask for 12hrs
  2. rear brakes are always difficult to purge without removing them from the bike. air always goes up, the problem is that exit from master cylinder to reservoir is not in the highest point of the system ..... while pressing the pedal you can slightly unscrew the bolt fixing hose to master cyclinder, that's in the highest point of an installed system. some air coul be trapped there, close the bolt as soon as you see oil coming out. if not enough remove the brake from the bike , put the cylinder at a higher level in horizontal position (exit to reservoir must be in the highest point) and move the caliper slowly so that exit from caliper to hose is higher that the rest of the caliper. leave the sistem in that position for a few minutes, you can also tap it with a screwdriver to make air go up. you can also push the piston of the caliper all the way in, it will generate a motion of fluid towards the master cylinder, helping ascent of air.
  3. yes, for example in italy
  4. probably you are still rich. power up needle needs the stock 42 pilot.
  5. the rule still applies, for products of the same quality and chemistry. to get a wide range from a cheap mineral or semisinth base oil you need to add a lot of short living additives. after additives are destroyed oil looses some performance. 100% sinth oil needs less additives because it comes from a better base oil, offering a larger range. less additives is one of the reason why good sinth oil lasts longer 50 is usually not necessary during summer , during winter i would avoid it.
  6. 165 for bikes without airbox lid, 142 for those with airbox lid.
  7. years ago user's manual recommended 10w40, then honda switched to 10w30. if your park the bike outside and often start it at 20-30 degrees you may consider 5w30 or 5w40. max wear of the engine happens during the very first seconds after starting. at very low temperature 5w.. offers more protection. you can also run an high quality syntethic 10w, with high viscosity index and low pour point
  8. if you remove the raised lid you must at least change the main jet to 160 (with that exhaust and stock needle)
  9. another difference: carbs with pair and solenoid usually run 155 pilot air jet instead of 135. for perfect rejetting ( jd or dj kit ) it must be replaced. part number of 155 pilot air jet is 09492-27010
  10. first you need to work in the very first part of the throttle, where diameter of the needle and pilot circuit play the main role. do you know the position of the fuel screw? try opening it a little (untill 2.5 turns from closed is fine). if not enough try the next diameter of the needle: emn with 155 main (because of the different taper E needles need smaller main jets than D neddles). if you solve moving the screw then you may consider 5th clip position and 158 main. 5th was common with 400e engine (with different cams)
  11. one among these is wrong and unreliable when it's time to discredit a foreign product or to support own bike imagination has no limit
  12. rear disk brake, front and rear adjustable suspensions, fat bar, larger fuel thank, likely footpegs in a better position, kick starter. a modern crf230 should be like this.
  13. an average rider spends most of the time below 3/4 throttle: main jet is important but needle and pilot jet usually have a larger effect. 1 clip position easily makes 5% of difference at moderate pace. same for 1 size at the pilot if you often ride at very low throttle position (for example exploring unknown dirt paths)
  14. yes , D is leaner than E. both your needles are richer than dxp (richer root diameter and richer clip). i think that 105 pilot may be a cause of your previous problems at 1/16 - 1/8. its size is less relevant at idle and increase untill about 1/4. if too big it works worst in the very first part of the throttle. 100 is not a fixed jet , experience says that it works with 45 , people run it and then adjust fuel jet to 42 or 48 if necessary (in the past 72/75 air and 38 fuel was a common choice). i think drz does not like large pilot air jet, stock E with coast enrichener had 45 fuel , dxp and two pilot air jets giving the same area of a 108 air jet: stock it was horrible at 1/16 steady throttle going back to your current jetting: fine at the extremes and rich in the middle. dxp at 1st sounds strange but imho it's the obvious first move to improve those numbers.