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Hurky

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About Hurky

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Spain
  • Interests
    Mechanics,Bikes,IT,Electronics
  1. I mistyped my answer, I meant rebound ... So you recommend adding five 40.2 shims to the rebound to give rebound some more action, sounds logic to me as the rebound was having very few effect before. What I do not get is what you are recommending on the compression stack, I'm a complete newbe regarding this stuff, would you flip over the 37 <> 28 shim ? What do you recommend for the 18mm shim ? Leave it ? Replace it with the stock 24 + 22 ? Please excuse if I'm asking the same question but I want to be sure I get it right. Thanks a lot.
  2. Thanks for your reply mog, can you elaborate why I need more shims on the compression rebound stack ? I'm not 100% sure the information I found is correct but the stacks I found did not use several 40.2 shims in this stack. Regarding the tiny 18mm shim, if no one can say for what this is good or if it make any sense I would like to revert it back to stock. For that I would need one 24.3 and one 22.3 mm shim, where can I get those ? It seems that I cannot simply buy individual shims from Honda, it may be a good idea to lokk for it on other motorcycle brands, maybe they do deliver individual shims... Cheers
  3. Hi all, I'm doing a big maintenance on a CR250 gen3 2002, the shock was not working properly, I could not even tell a big difference fully closing the adjusters... I recon the oil was very-very bad, and could be the reason for this but I checked the shim stack and found some strange modifications of the previous owner I want to share with you: The first red color column is the stack I had in the shock, I found the other two as reference... I think the rebound is OK as it is. In the compression stack I found some strange things, C15-C16 seem they were flipped , I think they should be: 44 - 37 - 28 - 42 And further down the 18mm shim at C26 seems totally wrong and I need a 24 and 22mm shim in this place to recover OEM specs. Can you please show me your insights on this ? This bike was valved from the factory for MX use but I use it for Enduro (woods/singletrack). Maybe these modifications make sense and I should let them as they are and just renew the fluid. Cheers !
  4. Hurky

    When is it time to buy new rotors?

    Before reaching this point: That's my rear and it's way beyond the min.TH, it turns blue when braking harder
  5. I have both bikes, a WR450F 2008 with a 480cc kit and a WR300 2010 that I bought 10 month back. Both are great bikes with his pro and contras, I like the WR300 more cause it's more fun tu ride, lighter in weight and easy-turning. The WR450 es pretty heavy in comparison to the Husky. Suspensions are great on both bikes, the engine has lot of bottom end, won't stall that easy and still a lot of mid and high end as well. What I don't like on the Husky are two things: Close Ratio gearbox (first long and fifth short for trails/street) and the Kick Start, You become used to it and it normally start first kick but you have to kick it hard, I don't regret having changed to the Husky, but the power delivery of the WR480 is unmatched, that really did make fun on the trail roads I'm still trying to sell the Yami...Hope I find a customer soon. Regards.
  6. Please excuse for taking this old post out of the cracks but this mod definitely deserves it. I really like both ideas and I already have bought the parts to do the swingarm mod in short. I would like to know if you had some kind of problem with one of this mods as some time passed, what I don't like so much about the linkage mod is that you are removing pretty much meterial from a stressed zone, is it holding up well with the jumps etc. ? Do you ride at a MX track sometimes ? I was thinking that we probably can do the same mod as with the swingarm, lubing from the inside, I mean, drilling a little channel into the lower suspension bolt, some tiny channel, maybe 1,5mm, and then put a Zerk onto the screw head. Than do the same mods as for the swingarm of cutting into the inner bolt of the bearing, so that the grease can travel inside the bearing... Is this a better idea ? Probably it's not as stressing the 10mm bolt is probably not a good idea ... What do you think ?
  7. Hi all, yesterday I took the pipe out and made some photos of the piston, please have a look: Bike is a WR300 2010, I bought it second hand and don't really know the hours / kms on it, seems to be the original piston. I think the piston is not too bad, machining rings are still there on the skirt, there is a spot under the second ring that is shiny.. I think there is some blowby also and a lot of carbon deposits on top of piston and power valve. My jetting was way rich and I'm using a high flashpoint ester oil at 2% mixture. What are your insights ? Thanks.
  8. Hurky

    Honda CR250R (2003)

    How is she doing in the woods (enduro) ? I like this bike ;)
  9. Hurky

    Yamaha YZ250 (2008)

    Cool bike ;)
  10. Hurky

    Wr 250 model year differences

    Some good info there, appart the KYB forks, what was different 2009 vs 2010+ ? Have seen some good priced 2009 ones... Are the KYB 48mm better as the Marzocchi Shiver 50mm ? I think this is more personal preference... I've read from both thay are better but in the end I must try them for myself to compare...
  11. Hurky

    Wr 250 model year differences

    Thats funny, I just logged in to ask this same question I couldn't find a changes / year list for the WR250/300 models, in the Honda forum is a really good list of each detail of every changes in their CR models ... So far, I think the switched to KYB forks in 2010... The motor is (I think) kind of an oldie, but had some cylinder (porting) changes over the years but I'm not really sure... Hopefull someone that knows better can say us more about it
  12. Please excuse if this is not the correct part of the forum, is this is a question in general and not for a particular bike I thought this would be a better place. I simply want to get at it in a more scientific way, calculating the real torque on the gears during normal use vs. tighting the nut... I see the impact wrench as nearly perfect for loosening the nut but do yoy also use it during assembly ? Thank you all
  13. Ok thanks, so doing a practical example just curious, if the bike makes 40 NM of peak-torque, is that on the crankshaft or the wheel ? If it's on the crank, thar 3:1 ratio makes that 120 NM on the clutch basket ? If that's the case, there shouldn't be any problem using this method... But I think that torque es at the wheel so things get worse, final gear ratio can be 48/13=3,7, so 40NM/3,7=10,8 NM at the sprocket, in 5th gear the ratio es near 1:1 so that would be only 10,8 NM on the gearbox ? If that's the case, applying 120 NM tightening the nut would be 11 times more stress than during normal use... Am I stupid or is this correct ? The penny... I've no problem blocking the gears with an piece of aluminum I've made, that's ok for the crankshaft nut but not for the clutch hub as it connects directly to the primary gear shaft...
  14. This cannot be globalized as bikes and usage differ a lot, but for example in my case, a Yamaha WR450F 2008. Bike was running great and valves were in spec every time I checked them, last year I've put a new top-end in it (piston, cylinder, valves) with 250h on it then. Now the bike has 380h on the meter and I just checked valves for the first time after the rebuild and they didn't move a bit !, not bad after 130 hours My riding style is mostly low2mid rpm and I change my oil every 20h max, that are 4-6 weeks in my case.
  15. Tightening the nut on the clutch hub requires a special tool for holding the hub but it is possible to do it without a tool: This obviously only work with engine still in the frame, - Put gearbox in last gear, 5th or 6th reducing the torque on the chain - Put a steel bar through the swingarm searching for a position that relies on holes on sprocket and brake disk, NOT on the spokes... - Tighten the nut to spec... So, I've done this in the past without apparent problems but I have fear damaging the gearbox, I think the torque on the gearbox will be a lot more applying 120NM of torque to the clutch hub than the torque the engine can produce but I'm not sure at all... What torque can the engine transmit to the gears ? Do you think this method is Ok or to dangerous ? Have you done it in the past without problems ? Thanks !
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