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      JUST IN!   07/18/2018

      Video: 2019 Yamaha YZ250F Features & Benefits 


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About hornet10

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  1. Maybe the clutch slipping a bit from the hard hit to the lever. Make sure the cable has some slack and moves free at the lower arm on the engine.
  2. Adjust the valves and cam chain and try again. Check the plug for a fat blue spark. Use an old plug with the gap widened. Check that your fuel screw is out about 1 1/2 turns and adjust it for throttle response after its warmed up. Good luck!
  3. Thanks for checking it out!
  4. The blue spring I have from 1987 XR200r is about 7 1/2" long. 3.224" OD at bottom . 3.015 at top. 0.482 wire. I also have a 1990 XR200r that has a red spring on it, not yet removed for measurements. I did take out a fork spring and it has .008 larger wire, 4 more coils and .012 larger OD. An online calculator I found says it is a bit over 2lb per inch stiffer than 1987 so I may give them a go and try 10 psi. Although what I read has said 1987 and 1990 XR200r have same dry weight I can see several steel parts on '90 that are of aluminum on '87. Thus making me believe 1990 would be sprung a bit heavier at both ends. Part numbers are different as well. Thank you for all comments and suggestions. I did have an 1986 XR250r shock around here a while back, blue spring on it and was longer and bigger OD. Wouldn't fit on the 200 shock. Not very knowledgeable about suspension here. Spent most of my riding days on many rigid frame Speedway Jawa and Weslake alky burners.
  5. I have an 87 200 that is a good runner and has a few mods done to it. Stock suspension springs are way too soft for even moderate jumps at moderate speeds. Looking to buy some stiffer springs front and rear, new or used. Just don't want to bottom out and be ruptured while I'm having a go next time . Any leads or advice appreciated. Not really wanting to swap out the complete fork or shock from another bike. Don't need disk brakes or bigger, heavier front end. Just want to make the stockers not bottom out as easily. Thanks for the space and taking the time to read this.
  6. I have 2004 crf100 with stock engine. Lightened flywheel, CHM pipe, Tokyo mods rev box, stock airbox drilled and K&N filter, ATC 200x 1985 carb jetted 120 main and 42 pilot. Runs great at about 50ft above sea level. A lot of trick parts on the rest of bike as well. Not as fast as my even better EO 120, but carburates better with smooth, even power and less carb messing than 24 flatslide. Always wanted to try a 26 round slide Mikuni on both bikes, but the prices are just out of hand for the carb and manifold setup. 200x carb is a good one.
  7. Can someone please advise me the correct procedure for removing the cylinder from an old DKW 125 Sachs engine without doing damage to otherwise undamaged fins. The four Allen nuts and head came off easily enough and the piston is in good shape and not stuck or seized. Turns over well. Just don't want to pry or bash it too hard and mess something up. Shot some PB blaster down the bolt holes and around base gasket. Been on there for 40 years probably. Did I miss something? Are there bolts from below? Do the side case bolts need be loosened like some old Jawa? Thanks for any tricks or advice shared.
  8. Do the jets and other carb parts interchange between oem and the cheapo?
  9. Handguard lever pivot?
  10. No joy?
  11. Looks right, pinit.
  12. Did you do a big bore kit on this bike? What disk front is on it? Very nice work!
  13. I still want one.
  14. Longer and knob drilled with small holes or dished to lighten it up some would make it better. Still an improvement over the puny stocker.
  15. Spray it with some PB Blaster and wait overnight. See if it will move side to side by pushing it outward from center with a nail or awl. Careful of threads. Not much surface area at the end of those jets so it may move and drop out without much trouble. When they snap off above the threads is usually even worse. Good luck. Merry Christmas, happy new year, keep 'er sideways!