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About hornet10

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  1. Looks like 1975 KD80. Is it for sale?
  2. hornet10

    XR200 to XL200r Engine Swap

    Fits perfect. No mods or spacers for engine mounts. Now on to carb, pipe, ignition, etc. Thanks Chuck!
  3. hornet10

    CRF100F Off-idle Bog

    I have an '04 crf100f as well. CHM pipe, drilled airbox, K&N, 200x carb, lightened flywheel, Tokyo Mods CDI box. No internal engine mods from new. Never had it apart. Lots of hours. Quite a few other aftermarket and mixed parts to the rest of the bike. Mine runs very well with 120 main and 42 pilot on Chevron Supreme at 100 -1500 feet with a bit of messing at the pilot screw. Not sure, but I bet the 150 carb is very close to 200x. Been a long time since I jetted it, but I got it pretty good after a lot of changing. My 120cc EO bike has a 24mm flat slide and was a real pain until I changed out the needle. Now its lost the bog as well. Good luck!
  4. hornet10

    CRF100F 2008 Fork Stem Stop Repair

    I welded a solid slug on to make the same repair. I just used a die grinder to leave about 1/4" between the fork leg and fuel tank. I also tried to have the contact area as large as possible to keep it from wearing much. Bit of hammer finish paint matched up well enough. Been working well for several years.
  5. hornet10

    XR200 to XL200r Engine Swap

    Can someone please tell me whether or not an 1981 XR200 engine will be a simple swap into a 1983 XL200r? I am concerned with the engine mounting bolt pattern and cylinder head mount as well. Drive chain alignment too. I have heard about differences in the countershaft lengths on some XRs and not sure of XL. Also some diff on top mounts as I recall. I am sure the ignition parts mounting, exhaust and intake routing may be challenging as well. Thanks for any and all shared!
  6. hornet10

    Damaged crankcase

    That is common damage to many bikes that are neglected on chain tension and lube. I have picked up several used engines and bikes that have this type of damage. Just poorly maintained. Closest thing to a simple fix is to fill in the chunked area with a hand fit piece of metal and then JB Weld or epoxy it in place. File, sand or die grind to fit . Otherwise an expensive and laborious weld repair can be done. Splitting the cases and such. I have found the DID ER 428nz3 chain to be superior to all others on my little XRs. Big bikes too. Factory spec adjustment of 1 1/4" at lower mid span never fails on XR100 if you have a well lubed and not badly stretched chain. Also wheel bearings, swingarm bushings, engine mount bolts and sprocket condition can cause derailment gnarl. Good luck.
  7. hornet10

    Crf100 front and rear fenders on 2002 xr100

    Front will fit well . Rear is quite different. Mounts way off and will not line up well with side panels.
  8. hornet10

    Xr200r rear suspension

    My honda manual says 29-36 ft/lbs on both upper and lower shock bolts. I also have an '87 XR200. Need it stiffer for riding fast on the rough. I have changed the springs, but wont ride until 19th to find out if its better. Not experienced at shock rebuilding and may have to send away if springs don't help. I sent a RM465 shock to Works Performance years ago for a heart transplant. Boy that was a good investment. The beast didn't buck as much, but still rared up plenty. Out of business now and have not heard of anyone taking over or selling repair parts. Good luck with the old XR!
  9. hornet10

    No compression after crash

    Maybe the clutch slipping a bit from the hard hit to the lever. Make sure the cable has some slack and moves free at the lower arm on the engine.
  10. hornet10

    1987 XR200 no gas

    Adjust the valves and cam chain and try again. Check the plug for a fat blue spark. Use an old plug with the gap widened. Check that your fuel screw is out about 1 1/2 turns and adjust it for throttle response after its warmed up. Good luck!
  11. hornet10

    1987 XR200r stiffer springs wanted.

    Thanks for checking it out!
  12. hornet10

    1987 XR200r stiffer springs wanted.

    The blue spring I have from 1987 XR200r is about 7 1/2" long. 3.224" OD at bottom . 3.015 at top. 0.482 wire. I also have a 1990 XR200r that has a red spring on it, not yet removed for measurements. I did take out a fork spring and it has .008 larger wire, 4 more coils and .012 larger OD. An online calculator I found says it is a bit over 2lb per inch stiffer than 1987 so I may give them a go and try 10 psi. Although what I read has said 1987 and 1990 XR200r have same dry weight I can see several steel parts on '90 that are of aluminum on '87. Thus making me believe 1990 would be sprung a bit heavier at both ends. Part numbers are different as well. Thank you for all comments and suggestions. I did have an 1986 XR250r shock around here a while back, blue spring on it and was longer and bigger OD. Wouldn't fit on the 200 shock. Not very knowledgeable about suspension here. Spent most of my riding days on many rigid frame Speedway Jawa and Weslake alky burners.
  13. I have an 87 200 that is a good runner and has a few mods done to it. Stock suspension springs are way too soft for even moderate jumps at moderate speeds. Looking to buy some stiffer springs front and rear, new or used. Just don't want to bottom out and be ruptured while I'm having a go next time . Any leads or advice appreciated. Not really wanting to swap out the complete fork or shock from another bike. Don't need disk brakes or bigger, heavier front end. Just want to make the stockers not bottom out as easily. Thanks for the space and taking the time to read this.
  14. I have 2004 crf100 with stock engine. Lightened flywheel, CHM pipe, Tokyo mods rev box, stock airbox drilled and K&N filter, ATC 200x 1985 carb jetted 120 main and 42 pilot. Runs great at about 50ft above sea level. A lot of trick parts on the rest of bike as well. Not as fast as my even better EO 120, but carburates better with smooth, even power and less carb messing than 24 flatslide. Always wanted to try a 26 round slide Mikuni on both bikes, but the prices are just out of hand for the carb and manifold setup. 200x carb is a good one.
  15. Can someone please advise me the correct procedure for removing the cylinder from an old DKW 125 Sachs engine without doing damage to otherwise undamaged fins. The four Allen nuts and head came off easily enough and the piston is in good shape and not stuck or seized. Turns over well. Just don't want to pry or bash it too hard and mess something up. Shot some PB blaster down the bolt holes and around base gasket. Been on there for 40 years probably. Did I miss something? Are there bolts from below? Do the side case bolts need be loosened like some old Jawa? Thanks for any tricks or advice shared.