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jbowles3

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About jbowles3

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    TT Member

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    Washington
  1. Jusat finished doing the first service on my rear shock. Long story short I may have let some air in it. Is it not possible to just tilt the bike at a forty five degree angle, right side up, release the pressure in the reservoir, and then simply screw out the upper clicker, fill with oil, then put it back in? In theory any air should ride to that clicker area if the bike is at a forty five.....so could I just tap the shock while doing this...to get the air to come to the clicker assembly up top, then take the valve out, fill with oil, and put the valve back in? Could this work? And yeah refill the n2 Thoughts please
  2. Okay good. Man I guess my bike really is pretty old. Nine years. Still runs like a dream too.
  3. Valve head....forty dollars.... That's like a 2 for 1 deal with prostitutes. It's a no brainier! Go for it. Make sure it's new or newer.
  4. jbowles3

    Tahuya today

    You that single track was incredible. I stil have some issues with turning quickly on. Y bike, I'm working on it. But that log at first did scare the hell out of me. But I made it over semi cleanly. I hope to return to these trails soon. first., I need to tear apart my rear shock and do some maintenance on it. Good ride bill! Wow talk about misspellings. Dear lord.
  5. Right behind the headlight, and also right at the spots where the break line is held in place by the two Teflon fasteners. Other than this idea, I have no idea why your break line would act this way.a. Solution is to buy a new break line.
  6. Check the brake hydraulic line to see if it has rubbed and worn. Mine has. If it wears and gets thin, then you squeeze the handle it can expand like a balloon , so the compression of e lever goes into expanding the hydraulic tubing instead of going into applying pressure to the break itself. My break line has several spots it is worn at.
  7. I have an 03 wr . I don't know if that's dual chamber or not. I thought I did a full oil change but now you have me paranoid that I only did a partial.
  8. This whole situation really upsets me. We pay more money than other recreation enthusaiasts, but have the least support from our government. I pay my dues, always keep up to date tabs, have a discover pass......but only 5% of the funds go to ORV. Im through with this; i'm riding in the kings forest no matter the future issues that pop uo. This is our country. Thus, OUR forest.
  9. I just changed all the fork oil. It looked like my dog had the shits. Literally it was brown and yoghurt consistency. SO so so glad I changed the oil in them....they were a ticking time bomb. The top of my springs were rusted/ gunked up too!! to the point that flakes had fallen off them into the oil (making it brown). Talk about neglect...... I've had this bike for 1.5 years. Apparently the previous owner never changed the oil. He had the bike since 03'. Lovely. Anyways, I cheated and got the oil out of the forks without TOTALLY disassembling them. Found a way to pump them and get it all out. Mine OOZED out 450ml of old oil per fork. Ended up putting about 470ml of new oil into each. Strange fact though. They seem to be functioning more stiffly now. I would have thought that putting in fresh oil would have made them softer. Any ideas?
  10. yeah I decided i'm going to fully take apart the forks tomorrow. At least to fully drain all the oil. My local shop sells 5w for $13.00, a liter (which is plenty). Thanks for all the input guys
  11. There should be minimal free play. But I do not believe there should be so much that it allows for the crankshaft to rub the case. Keep in mind though that the piston keeps the crankshaft centered.
  12. quickly curious about when to tear apart my front forks. They dont leak, dont make strange noises, and work [i assume] perfectly. Rebound and compression stroke. Anyways, to the best of my knowledge they've only been fully serviced once since 2003. Pretty sure it was two years ago. Seeing as how they dont leak, and function as I suspect they should, should I tear them apart and replace all suspension oil? Or are they likely fine for now. Yes I already know the suggested maintenance is 6months to 1 yr. What is your opinion? Info: I ride only forest trails. No MX, hardly any sand dunes. Thanks ahead of time. Or, if someone has a link to the right TT thread for this, let me know. --Jay
  13. Pin valve is to blame when the gas flows out of the carb. IF it pisses gas out like a race horse, then its the needle valve. $7 fix. I had the same issue with my 03', fixed it myself in a few hours.
  14. by the way. the similarity in our names is a little creepy.
  15. Yikes. Those exhuast are far out of spec! they should be .17 to .22mm SO, this is a large reason why your starting is difficult, and why your idle sucks. Also, your intakes are all off too!. If you have the owners manual, there is a page that is a big confusing table about reshimming. But actually its very simple. You look at what your current shim is (you need to take the top off the engine, and physically take out the shims....look at the numbers stamped on them), and then align it with your current measurement. I PROMISE that after reshimming, you'll see a drastic improvement in all around performance. By the way, all 5 of my valves were out of spec a month ago. I reshimmed all 5 about two weeks back.....total cost me about 28 dollars (5 new shims...that I determined by the chart). My bike now is incredible. And its an '03. Reshimming is actually very easy. Good luck, and just go for it!
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