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About Pooley

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  1. Whether it is true or not, I was told that the SS valves will more quickly wear the valve seats than the Ti ones. Please verify if that is correct. I got about 15000 miles out of my valves before needing to have them done, so I just stuck with stock Ti stuff to keep factory specs. Like you, it was the center valve that wore first, with the other 4 still in specs. When you do send in your head for new valves, many people here (myself included) have had good luck with Millennium Technologies http://www.mt-llc.com/. I sent in my 2001 426 head in a few years back, basically asking them to do whatever was necessary to get my new valves installed and fit correctly, including valve guide seals. They were very quick and honest with me. I had specified work to be completed that I thought was necessary, and was prepared to pay for that as well. They called me immediately with the good news that they did not need to re-cut the valve seats or any other machining, and only 1 valve guide was in need of replacing. Honestly, they could have told me pretty much anything and charged me for it, but did not.
  2. Pooley

    Top speed on a WR?

    Stock gearing and standard knobbies (Michelin S-12s) on the WR426, with HotCams auto-decomp exhaust, WR timing, FMF Q, all free mods and I've topped at 83 mph on a dirt road. Done this more than once over the years from 50deg to 90degF in Michigan, so altitude around 800ft. Not sure if I had a MPH or 2 more, but I doubt it. Verified using GPS and onboard wheel-magnet computer.
  3. Everyones riding style will cause maintenance schedules to vary. I bought and still ride my 01 WR426 new. It's been exclusively trail ridden in Michigan with about 15k miles of singletrack since new, call it 800-1000 hours on bike. I have done rings and piston twice, at 7000 and 14000 miles. The bike didn't lose compression or anything prior to doing rings. I did them because I had the engine out and opened up for other things. I figured why not. At 7k miles I flooded the bike very badly in a creek and had to do a complete tear-down. I also decided to replace the cam chain at the time, which was hardly worn. At 14k my valves finally need replacing, and had never once needed shimming until they were gonners. It happens pretty quickly once they start. I also needed 1 valve guide. I did not do cam chain again. Never had to anything else besides change fluids and grease things on a schedule...all the standard maintenance things that should never be put off. I'm sure people believe I'm riding a ticking timebomb since I've never needed to do the rod, bearings or anything else major, but Yamaha motors are built to last. I do not know how durable the newer generation bikes from first hand experience, but some of the previous longevity I am sure has continued.
  4. Pooley

    Metal Radiator Guards

    Any idea if the listed models also fit a WR426? I have no idea of the fitment between the 426 and the newer bikes. I have a brace/protector that is OK, but I've never been quite happy with the fit. I think it was from Flatland Racing. The brace extends back to the top motor mount and rubs my IMS YZ tank quite badly. I've had to pound/bend/stretch the aluminum to make it fit.
  5. I currently have my original printed manual from Yamaha as well as a digital pdf version I downloaded many years ago, that is in 4 languages. My printed manual is getting quite worn, dirty, folded, etc after 15 years of use and abuse. I would love to be able to print specific pages from the digital manual, but it is password protected and it cannot be printed or edited. Does anyone have a digital copy of the manual that is not password protected, or even know the password to unlock the one I have. (The pdf I have was linked here on TT at some point or other but it was many years ago.) I don't want to take a laptop out where I'm working on the bike, especially when I've got greasy/oily fingers. Thanks.
  6. Don't pack it super tight. Too much packing will be just as bad as none at all and WILL affect your performance/jetting. I mistakenly packed my silencer too tightly and the bike wound up popping like crazy and shooting flames out the tail end (and no, it was not an exhaust leak). I repacked with less material and everything went back to normal. I figured that packed too tightly the exhaust gasses don't absorb in the packing, go through too quickly, with no back pressure like an open exhaust with no packing. The gasses need to actually go into the material to provide the reduction in decibels, slow it down and provide the correct back pressure. I want to say 2 wraps of FMF 4 stroke packing is what I use with my FMF Q and is enough to get me to 94 dB.
  7. Pooley


    Considering it has the individual discs, maybe Supertrapp?
  8. Pooley

    riding with sprained ankle?

    A few years back I severely sprained my ankle while loading the bike on a Friday night in preparation for the weekend trip. Second severe sprain in a month and my ankle swelled up as if I had half a grapefruit on my leg. I rode all day Saturday and Sunday no problem. I had more trouble walking and just hanging around the campfire than I did actually riding. Ibuprofin, ice and elevation will be your friends. Motocross boots worked like a charm as an ankle brace.
  9. There aren't really any weaknesses of the 426/450 engines, they're super durable and reliable. I've about 16,000 miles of singletrack trails on my 01 WR426 and it still runs great. I am very faithful with my maintenance, don't race or bounce the rev limiter. The bike may look its age, but it sure doesn't run like a 15 year old bike. I've posted the mileage at which I had to do work on the WR in the past, but I honestly don't feel like looking it up after a few tall scotches to wash away the day's stress. Going by memory, a valve guide seal started to leak a little and smoke on startup at about 8k miles, but it was super minor. I replaced the rings, piston and cam chain at the 8k mark after turning the bike into a blue submarine and flooding the engine. We did a full teardown to inspect everything, and I figured why not. Only the cam chain showed minimal wear, but no stiff or seized links. It was not stretched that I could tell, it just had a little more sideways "droop" than a new chain. A single valve guide was replaced at the same time as my valves at around 14,000 miles. My center intake valve wore to the point of the bike not holding compression and not starting. The other valves were starting to show wear as well, but still in spec. Until that time, I had never had to adjust the valves at all, ever. The valve seats did not need to be redone. I switched to the HotCams autodecomp exhaust cam when I did my valves. Bearings are still stock and in good condition. Good luck with the shopping.
  10. Earlier today I watched my DVR'd Supercross coverage from Glendale, and noticed something strange. In the 450 class, Jason Anderson was in Heat #2 but failed to transfer directly to the main. He then raced in Semi #1, but not in Semi #2 which was what I expected. How come he didn't race in Semi #2 with the same guys he raced with in his heat? I do not race so I do not know the rules. Just something I haven't ever noticed before. Results here: http://www.motoxaddicts.com/2016/02/06/race-results-2016-phoenix-glendale-supercross/
  11. Did you buy the bike new or used? If used, make sure it has a YZ carb and not WR. The WR carb had the ACV valve on the side, which made tuning the pilot circuit very difficult. If WR, disable the ACV as described in the free mod posts for the WR and re-test. Just another thought.
  12. Pooley

    Where to ride

    Check out the Cycle Consercation Club of Michigan http://cycleconservationclub.org. They have organized rides every other weekend from May-October. There's usually a "looking for riding partner" section in the back too. Tons of great people go to the events. Also, look at http://www.vvmapping.com/trails/trailInfoMI.html and http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/1,1607,7-153-10365_15070_15080-38330--,00.html for trail maps.
  13. Pooley

    Fixing 02 426 bog

    Look at the O-Ring mod. This cured my low end bog once and for all. Of course, proper jetting is key as well. I had tried everything else, to varying degrees of success, but the bog never really went away, until I put in the O-ring. Still make sure your AP squirt is timed so that it just misses the slide, and then buy a new diaphragm, or just grind down the existing one so that the linkage stays in contact with the plastic throughout the entire throttle opening. Once you've got the diaphragm ground down properly, you can then use safety wire if you prefer. The O-ring will stretch, allowing the linkage and the plastic to separate if the diaphragm isn't exactly perfect. Lastly, check out disabling the ACV. This requires a new jet, as well, making it set up exactly like the YZ carb. I found tuning the bike to be a lot easier without the ACV.
  14. Pooley

    Best bike for michigan trails?

    I REALLY want to make the switch to a 300 2 stroke, which would be my idea of the perfect bike, but it is not something I can afford, until Wednesday's Powerball that is. I have some experience with the 450 class vs a 250 2 stroke, although it is limited to occasionally swapping bikes with my buddy. My WR426 is definitely a lot of bike when things get narrow or slow, as its a heavy old beast and isn't the most agile. Suspension work made a huge difference but it is still a tank. If I had the money, I probably would have gotten a new bike long ago, if the Yamaha was either too much for me to handle or it was prone to breakdowns. The WR426 is damn near indestructible and having ridden it for the last 15 years (and 15,000ish miles), I have somewhat learned how to minimize the bulk and its agility limitations, despite being 5'9" on a good day, weighing about 185lbs before gear. I guess I'm pretty strong for my size by the way I'm told I throw the 426 around. Most people are surprised I ride the big bike considering my stature (or lack thereof). That being said, the torque of the 2001 WR426 deals with the Michigan sand way better than my buddies 2000 CR250 2 stroke (supposedly one of the best CR chassis??). We have swapped bikes on a few occasions, and although I found the CR250 to be sooooo much more agile, lighter and a completely different experience, the 2 stroke has a difficult time maintaining traction and forward momentum when it gets technical or especially on a loose uphill. On the 4 stroke I just twist the throttle and torque the blue tank up the hill. The CR250 has to work the clutch something fierce while keeping body position perfect. If not, the front will either come up, or the back will just roost and lose traction. From what I have read/heard, the newer, trail focused 2 strokes minimize this to a degree, especially the 300s which have a lot of low end torque. The 426 weighs about 50 lbs more than the CR so it feels like it stays planted a lot better, deflecting less off of things. Before his 450 4 stroke died, my buddy preferred his CR450F over his CR250 in most Michigan situations, it was more forgiving, or at least easier to ride, especially at the end of the day when it is hard to keep focused. The CR250 requires a finer attention to detail, and needs to be actively ridden, vs just chilling and rolling on and off the throttle which can be done on the 450. For some reason, the CR250 tires him out more than the 450. I think it is because the 250 2 stroke has more hit, and requires more rider input to keep the front wheel down, and going straight. The 4 stroke is just smoother overall, despite the increased weight. I do not have any personal input for the 250F vs 450F dilemma, but the vast majority of 4 stroke bikes seem to be 450Fs so it can't totally just be the "cool thing to do". The weight difference between a 450 and 250 4 stroke is minimal, so I think it really has more to do with the reciprocating mass and differences in horsepower giving a completely different ride charactistic. So after a wall of text, the big bikes definitely have a place, but so do the smaller displacement. I'd let your riding style dictate your bike choice. If you ride without wanting to essentially micro-manage everything (clutch, throttle, body position, brakes, etc) and just chill, go with a 4 stroke. If you want to ride more "actively", requiring a lot more rider input, go with a 2 stroke.
  15. Pooley

    best tires for lower Mi sandy trails?

    All of the guys I ride with and I, use S-12s front and rear and have done so for about a decade. They do chunk pretty badly when it gets rocky however. I guess I am stubborn too and just keep buying the same thing.