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West Baden Iron

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About West Baden Iron

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  1. Yet another WOT to start thread, but here's my issues. I recently bought a 2012 from a guy that wouldn't start. I got it bump start a few times, then realized if I held WOT and kicked about 10 times it would start hot or cold. It will also die if the rpms go below 2050 or so. I decided to go through the engine and figure this out. I first checked the valves and they were way way too loose. All around. It was like they used the metric specs but used a SAE feeler gauge. I straightened this out, still the same. I checked the FI system and found nothing wrong. I ended up buying a DFI light and bracket and no codes show up. I decided to clean the FI pump after reading posts on here. It was a little dirty, but not bad. No changes after reassembly. I decided to check compression and it was on the lower end. I decided to rebuild the top end. New rings, piston, valves, springs, collets, retainers, seals, etc. Valves seats cut. Compression is near the top of spec. Still no changes. I just did a flow test of the pump and it put out 3.8 ounces in 5 seconds. The manual says 1.4 ounces or more in 5 seconds. Seems like too much, but not sure if this is an issue. I don't quite have the right fitting to check the pressure while the bike is idling. I did check the pressure deadheaded and it measures 46 psi (43 psi is standard). Cold, the bike takes a lot of kicks to get started. Hot, it will start easier, but still required wide open throttle. Anyone have any solutions for me? I'm not sure where to go from here. I really don't won't to just start replacing things, but I may have to to get this sorted out. Thanks, Jason
  2. It does sound like a clogged pilot jet. Not 100% on 2009 but on my 2006 usually a 42PJ or 45PJ is pretty standard depending on your altitude. See which one you have and clean it or just buy a new one. Buying a new one is easier but if you get a set of welding tip cleaners they clean out the holes pretty well. It is the center hole that will be blocked and it is tiny but you can see daylight through it when it's clean. Your fuel screw is on the bottom of the carb at a slight angle to vertical. If original, it will be a recessed screw. A lot of people in including myself put an adjustable fuel screw in which makes it much easier to adjust. The screw doesn't go through the bowl but right beside it. Lightly seat the fuel screw (tightening) then turn out counter clockwise 1.5 to 2 turns. This should get you close. Thanks, Jason
  3. Have you verified your fuel line isn't kinked or clogged and that your tank vent works (and you have fuel in the tank, haha)? After everything else has been exhausted, I would try a different carb. You can pick one up fairly cheap on ebay and resell it if it doesn't help. I would also do the leak down test and compression tests. As everyone knows, it has to be fuel, compression, or spark. Process of elimination has ruled out most of what it isn't so you just have a few left to eliminate. Hopefully you can get this issue resolved before riding season is over. Thanks, Jason
  4. Sorry, I forgot you wouldn't have the leak jet either. I don't really think it will matter because the JD Jetting kit is more for the Wide Open Throttle bog that the SXF is known for. I have heard the same about carb cleaner but as long as you don't let it soak in the stuff for days, I think it's fine. It's definitely no worse than the ethanol that's in about all the fuel now. I wouldn't let carb cleaner get on your TPS though. The more I think about it, the more it sounds like one of your passages is clogged. Probably your pilot jet passage. I would spray the crap out of it with carb cleaner and blow it out really well with compressed air. Don't use too much pressure though. I would keep it under 30 PSI. Thanks, Jason
  5. Joshua, I just emailed James at JD Jetting and I still had a bogging issue. Here is what he told me and and it worked perfectly for my bike. I think if you tried these settings, and you still have problems, then it is either a clogged passage in your carb, electrical, or compression. Of course, I have JD Jetting needle but I don't think that will matter for your issues. It may run better with the red neddle from JD Jetting, but it should still start. #60 Leak Jet. #42 Pilot Jet. #185 Main Jet. Set fuel screw at 1 3/4 turns from bottom. That should get you to where it will start every time, especially cold. Thanks, Jason
  6. According to my manual for the 2006 SXF 250 (2005 is the same I believe) Intake Valves- 0.10-0.20mm (.004-.008 inches) Exhaust Valves- 0.12-22mm (.005-.009 inches) Thanks, Jason
  7. I agree with jacko711 on using 1st gear with the limiting screw almost all the way in. My 5 year old daughter just starting riding solo this past weekend. I set the screw so the throttle went just above idle. I can outrun the bike so I knew I could catch up with her if I needed to. You can always let the screw out when the confidence goes up. I was never a fan of the training wheels. Some of my friends had their kids using training wheels and it seemed that all of them used it lean the wrong way around a corner and didn't really help them with controlling the bike. My daughter can ride a bicycle so I knew she could balance. She would control the throttle with me on the back of her 50 so I knew she could control that part as well. It just came down to her being comfortable without me on the back. She struggled balancing with me on the back, but I weigh 190 lbs. She is short so I still have to help her get started and stopping, but she does great going around the flat places in the yard. Good luck, Jason
  8. Have you tried swapping out your ECU? Or your coil and plug wire/cap? It sounds electrical to me after reading through everything. Especially the post where you started it and immediately killed it and couldn't get it started again. I guess first thing to try to eliminate electrical is verify a good strong spark happens every time you kick it over. If it doesn't spark some times, then it is definitely electrical. If it has a strong spark every single time, then most likely not electrical. Might check your kill switch as well. You can always take it out of the loop to verify it isn't grounding itself sometimes and causing your problems. Probably none of these will work, but I hadn't seen in the thread so it's worth a try. Thanks, Jason
  9. I've ridden both quite a bit and I think the only advantage of the X is the electric starter. If you are riding aggressive on the track at all, I think the X's suspension is going to hinder you. If kick starting a bike is an issue at all, the X is definitely the way to go but performance wise it takes a back seat to the R. For me it would be easier to change the R suspension to make it work track/trail for you then to do the same to the X. Thanks, Jason
  10. I was in the exact same boat as you. I bought the SRS in a 12 and it was so tight I thought they sent the wrong side. I couldn't decide between 12.5 or 13.5. I decided to send them back and just try boots on at a not so local store. I ended up with the Sidi TA boots in a 11.5. The toe box is way bigger on the TA compared to the SRS for some reason. I liked the idea of the replaceable sole but the TA was much more comfortable for my specific foot. As stated above, no break in was required and it felt awesome from the first ride. Thanks, Jason
  11. 40nm (30 ft/lbs) in a cross pattern in first stage, 50nm (37 ft/lbs) in second stage. 10nm (7 ft/lbs) on the 3 screws on the outside of the head according to my engine manual. Thanks, Jason
  12. I have the same bike. First thing I did was buy the JD Jetting kit including the leak jet. It really woke the bottom end up on this thing. However, that is a different issue that what you are asking about. These seem to be really finicky about starting. Not sure what your altitude and temp is now in New Brunswick but I am in Indiana and its been about 30-40 degrees lately and about 800 ft msl. My starting technique is different than any jap bike I have owned. I have to turn the throttle about 1/3 open and hold it there for about 1 second, close the throttle and repeat 2 more times, sometimes 3 times. The bike fires right up 1st or 2nd kick. If it doesn't fire up within 4 kicks, I repeat. This may not work for you, but it works every time for me. If I don't open the throttle when it's cold, I can kick until my leg falls off. It won't start. I still have trouble starting the bike if I stall it on the trails once it's warm. It seems like it wants full throttle for a couple kicks before it will fire over. If I kill the bike when I stop, it fires up 1st kick every time. It's like I flood it when I stall the bike so I guess that's why it needs full throttle for a couple kicks. I guess what I would suggest is cold, give it some more throttle and hold it open for a second or 2. If you do flood it, then hold the throttle wide open while you kick and it should fire. You can hear the difference when your kicking as you clear the carb out and it's about to fire. All this my only work for my bike, but maybe it can work for yours as well. Hope this helps some. Thanks, Jason
  13. I just got an E-Line plate and it fit perfectly on my 2006 SX-F 250. I haven't rode with it yet so I can't say anything about durability. The finish and quality seem to be really nice. I'm not sure about the P3 (or your specific model) but you do have to remove the plate to change the oil. Thanks, Jason
  14. Can anyone give me link to an owners manual for a 2006 SX-F 250. I keep finding links for free owner's manual pdf's on ktmusa's website but it just takes me the main site. I can find the one for the new 2012 bike, but not any other year. I'm not looking for a free ride here, so I don't want an illegal copy or pirated scanned pdf. If they are in fact not free, that is fine and I will try to buy the owner's manual. However, I can't even find one to buy. I have bought the service manual from KTM Cycle Hutt but it still hasn't arrived 3 weeks later. I'm getting a bit frustrated trying to get something seemingly simple. Thanks in advance, Jason
  15. So you couldn't get a feeler gauge in one after you reshimmed? If so, you didn't do it correctly and need to reshim with the correct one to get it back to spec. Thanks, Jason
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