tonybike

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About tonybike

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    British Columbia
  1. Nice write up. I like your two extra ideas about polishing the seat and the workaround with the petcock. Thanks. I had a crusty green deposit that needed to be cleaned off the seat. I don't know what it was. It was hard to get off but a drop of water seemed to dissolve it. I was thinking it was from the ethanol in the gas.
  2. So far this has worked well for me. First you break your ankle two hours in to your 5 day trip. Then you get you neighbor to unload your bike for you while you limp around like a wounded hyena. The bike has stayed spotless since then. Can't wait to go riding again.
  3. Thanks, good information. I'll try that next time. That brass block looks like a good idea. I have some old brass fittings.
  4. Chris - I read about that - even saw a picture I think - but I was still worried I might damage something but I know many swear by this method. Sure sounds easier. Does the penny get scarred up or bent? Any ugly sounds? Is it easy to unwind? Thanks for any thoughts on this.
  5. That PDF thing is very cool. I will definitely use that. I kept a copy for myself. Thanks!PS - haha maple syrup only if fermented then distilled.
  6. Thanks for the nice comments - glad to hear it might be useful. Now - I would like to add the suggestion about jamming the gears with a penny in the right place - I can't figure out how to edit the post. I did it before, but maybe too much time has elapsed? I am using an ipad.
  7. The new and the old gears had the same appearance. When installing the gears make sure the protrusion in the centre of the gear faces the right way. The manual does a good job of describing the whole process. All in all it was an easy job except for blocking the back wheel and bending my sprocket. It was also a pita getting the cotter pin out of the break pedal. I will install the cotter pin the other way around. Also - on reassembly I could not get the brake to hold the back wheel. I ended up just running a tie down strap from the foot peg to the sprocket - that worked really well for blocking the wheel in that direction. Thank you for reading and for all your good ideas and that allowed me to replace these gears.
  8. This is a close up of where the pin fits through the shaft on the oil pump drive gear. I slid the pin into the shaft for this shot
  9. The bottom gear has a pin which slides through a hole in the driven shaft. It would be easy to lose into the case. Easy for me anyway. You can see the pin which fits into a notch in the gear.
  10. After 60 hours my plastic gears looked good. I replaced them because I had boiled over after one of those clutch abusing episodes and I have no idea how the plastic gears respond to excessive heat. I feel better now in any case. Each of the top gears are this size.
  11. This is the inner portion of the clutch, hub, bolts, springs and also the end of the clutch actuation rod which pushes up from underneath the hub to release compression on the springs which allows the friction plates to slip against the driven steel plates. Quite ingenious. Now I have a better appreciation of the components I am grinding into dust during episodes of cursing after stalling on steep slippery inclines.
  12. Picture with the three plastic gears removed. Just pull off the circlips/washers and E-clip and gears.
  13. The bottom is driven by the middle gear and it drives the oil pump. I took a lot of pictures of these gears because it took me so $$!&$!! long to get the clutch nut off it seemed like the right thing to do. Note that this one has an E-clip and no washer. The other two have a circlip and a washer.
  14. A close up of all three plastic gears. The upper gear is driven by the clutch. The middle gear is driven by the upper gear.
  15. This picture shows the view after the clutch is removed. The three plastic oil gears are all visible now. The top two are retained by 13mm circlips and the bottom one by an E clip. I used new circlips when reinstalling.