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About mattandleah

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  1. Hi guys, I frequently ride with a guy who has a KTM with a factory headlight and tail light. I really like being able to see him via his tail light when he's in front of me and it's really dusty. When I'm riding in front and want to check back on him, all it takes is a quick glance and I can see his headlight very easily as well. I wanted to add something similar to my 230. I think I found a low budget solution from digging around on eBay and looking at what others have done. My total cost = $15.94. Here are a few pics: These LED marker lights were purchased on Ebay for $7: http://www.ebay.com/itm/311874534548 They don't focus the light enough to be used as an actual headlight, but they are fairly bright and can be seen from a distance for improved visibility on the trails. They install via a rubber grommet in a 3/4" hole. I don't know the exact wattage, but they seem to be pretty low draw. I can't imagine they are over a few watts each. Tail light was also about $7 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/162473751271 Again, LED, so low power consumption. I only hooked up the less bright running light, but there's another wire for a brake light if you wanted to add that or run it brighter. It installs via 3 bolts through the fender and can be positioned to sit below the rear tip of the fender or it could stick out. I tucked mine under a bit. Switch was $1.77 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262925475672 Seems do work as designed and mounts nicely. Pic under low light conditions. Also wired in a USB charging port for my cell phone/GPS....this one was $6 when I ordered it (must have been on sale), and was black. It has an on/off switch so you can turn it off to avoid power draw when not in use. It seems to work ok. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X4JFY7S Just wanted to post in case it would be helpful to anyone. Take care guys! -Matt
  2. mattandleah


    No worries. I totally agree. I'll have to see if I can measure the total travel as I feel like it may be more than 9". I did have to crank up the preload a bit, but like I said, it feels really good to me as-is. I may experiment with other springs in the future if it seems necessary, but for right now, I'm loving it! -Matt
  3. mattandleah


    I took a few measurements today when I got home for you guys. Roughly, I'm seeing 7/8" static sag and around 3.75 to 4" of race sag (it was hard to measure by myself sitting on the seat). -Matt
  4. mattandleah


    I didn't measure the new full travel of the suspension (I wasn't sure how to compress it all the way with the shock installed, and I didn't want to take it all apart again), but I believe stock specs say 9" for the 230. I assumed that I had a little more since the shock was a bit longer and everything seems to be sitting a bit higher now. I adjusted the preload to give somewhere between 3 and 4" of sag with me sitting on the bike. I believe the static sag was somewhere around 1 to 2", but I would have to verify that. I did some messing around with the preload to set the sag and I can't recall exactly where I ended up. That being said, the suspension feels really good. With the preload set, I do still have some static sag and the spring doesn't feel too soft. Again, that's just for me at 160lb. -Matt
  5. mattandleah


    I don't...but it's the stock spring for a 2004 400ex, whatever that ends up being. I do still have the old CRF230F yellow spring if that would help... -Matt
  6. mattandleah


    Yep, it's a stock rear shock. Just as a reference, I weigh around 160, and the stock spring seems fine for me. I messed around a bit with both the preload and the damping/rebound settings and I seem to be able to get it anywhere from really soft, to really stiff, so it's got a lot of adjustability with it. Eye to eye was around 15 1/2" maybe just a hair longer than stock, but it bolted right in. The other key was that the ends were the right width to use without modifying the linkage or top mount. Maybe there's an easier way to make it work other than what I did....I seem to always do stuff the hardest way possible. -Matt
  7. mattandleah


    I think I spent a few hours one weekend cutting the box and making the initial plate. The next weekend I made the intake which probably took me another 3 or 4 hours and about 3 cereal boxes for cardboard templates! Probably a few more hours to create the through pipe and put it all together. I was really paranoid about welding splatter on the inside of the intake. I tried to keep it really clean but got some debris in there inevitably. I filled it with nuts and bolts and shook it around for maybe 15 minutes and it was like it was bead blasted inside. I remember an old guy telling me that's how he cleaned the inside of gas tanks. Worked great. I would say maybe 8 to 10 hours overall, split into small sections over several days. -Matt
  8. mattandleah


    Haha...thanks guys. I was actually thinking the same thing. I wish I could help provide a kit for others to do the mod. I think if it could all be made out of plastic (maybe 3D printing?) then it would be really nice, and lighter weight as well. -Matt
  9. mattandleah


    Hi guys, I found this thread when I got a project 2004 CRF230F with a rear shock that was shot. Being the cheapskate that I am, I didn't want to pay to have it rebuilt or to buy a new one. I couldn't find any on Ebay and I had a hard time finding any of the replacements that were listed above. I wanted to post the setup that I went with. It seems to work great so far and although it was a lot of work, it was super low cost. After a lot of research into readily available shocks that were the same length and had the same size ends, I went with a shock from a 2004 Honda 400EX. These are readily available on eBay for around $35 shipped. They have damping and rebound adjustments, have nearly the same length exactly, and the bolt holes and widths are the same at the ends. Here is a picture of it installed: The only problem is that it has that big nitrogen canister at the top which interfered with the airbox. I had to cut away the airbox as shown: Then, I made an insert to go around the shock and seal the box: The next step was to remake the intake since I had to remove that big rubber boot to make room. I fabricated a box that had a 2" inlet and outlet from a piece of muffler pipe and some sheet steel. I tried to keep the volume as large as possible but keep it in tight and allow access to the damping adjustment on the shock: I used the other end of the muffler pipe that I bought ($5 at autozone) to make a slip fit into the airbox. This allowed me to remove it all from the bike when needed. I purchased an UNI air filter that would clamp onto the 2" pipe that was coming all the way though, thus creating a sealed system. The nice thing about this is that the air filter is still protected within the original airbox space. I also had to drill a hole on the backside to accommodate a fitting for the crank case ventilation, but that's very straight forward. I put a mounting tab to the muffler mount below to keep it secure. I siliconed and bolted the steel plate I made into the airbox so it was all sealed up tight: I bought a silicone rubber boot from Ebay that was 2" to 2.25" (I think under $5) to fit over the newly created airbox and carb and some thin stainless steel clamps. Here is a picture of it all painted and in place (before the rubber boot came in): Final pictures of the bike assembled and ready to go. The suspension is amazing! As an added bonus, there are many different springs available for different weight riders with these shocks. I am super happy with the setup. I did it for hardly any money at all and it was a fun project. I now have a fully adjustable shock that's readily available and performs fantastically! Hit me up with any questions you may have! -Matt