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About Stefe9999

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  1. Stefe9999

    A Couple Engine Teardown Q's

    I've got a hanging intake valve on my 01 WR426. I was hoping not to have to take the motor off the bike to do the rebuild (I'm planning on piston/rings and new valves if needed) But what stops me from getting the head off is the forward mounted timing chain plastic slider. The head can not be lifted high enough to clear this piece. Does anyone know how to get the slider out, or is this the single piece that makes on-bike head removal impossible? BTW, I think I can see why the valve is hanging, there is a good layer of carbon soot all over the head surface. Any hints on what to use to clean it up? Thanks
  2. Stefe9999

    When to do Piston/Rings?

    Ok, so how did you clean it all up, and did you use OEM valves? Did you just replace valves, not guides and all that goes with them?
  3. Stefe9999

    When to do Piston/Rings?

    My 2001 has, I'd guess between 200 and 300 hours on the motor. I've adjusted the valves once, they were just slightly tight. Recently I've been thinking I should probably change out piston/rings/gaskets. But the bike doesn't burn oil, and I still need the compression release to start it. But sometimes I think its down on power compared to when it was new. What have others done? Wait for smoke, or do a leak-down test? About the only thing I've noticed is that with the motor off, if I rest my foot on the kickstarter, it seems to fall through quicker than before. Thanks for any help..
  4. Stefe9999

    01Wr426 SM SM front spacer problem

    It is the wr250, and, as i said, the problem was 2006 wr250 hubs on a 01 wr 426. After studying space widths on the on-line parts books, i realized the spacing was the same between an 06 wr and an 06 yz. So for much less $, I bought a simple set of yz spacers and it all came togther just fine. The wr throttle-side spacer/odo drive is $120, so for $15, the yz spacers worked great. I only have to seal the throttle side bearing and will probably just use a sealed bearing. So for my conversion, i put on a cycra front fender (looks bad-ass) and 14/43 gearing with a black anodized aluminum rear sprocket, non-oring chain, and a 320mm EBC front rotor and bracket kit. More changes to come will likely be cycra hand guards, a real mirror, a new chain slider and a better computer. I'm thinking I might have been better off with an o-ring chain, this setup is less power-robbing, most certainly at the cost of longevity. My initial rides are indicate no change in power characteristics and huge simle factor. Unfortunately, you can blame the weather on me, the night i got it done, the snow hit! However I put a picture of it on my phone and at least enjoy looking at it once in awhile! Sorry your bike locked up, but as always, the main thing is that you are OK, glad you came through!!!
  5. Stefe9999

    01Wr426 SM SM front spacer problem

    1157mik, You are correct, they are 2006 wr250 hubs. So yes, there's a drive unit. But I didn't want to buy a new drive unit for $120
  6. Stefe9999

    01Wr426 SM SM front spacer problem

    I'll reply to my own post just to complete it. For my '01wr426, I fitted my SM wheels with WR250 hubs using '06YZ spacers and it fit together correctly. Only problem is the throttle-side wheel bearing is exposed becuse there's no odo drive covering it anymore, so I'll use a sealed bearing and make some type of cover.
  7. I'm almost done converting my 01-426 to SM, but the wheels I bought came off of an 06 WR or YZ, I'm not sure, the seller won't be around till tomorrow. The hub on my new wheels looks like a WR type because its got the large opening and the two tabs on the throttle side of the wheel that look like they would drive an odo unit. But my 01 spacer-drive unit does NOT fit on this new wheel. Question 1, does my front hub, from my description, sound like a yz type or wr type, or is there no difference? Based on question 1, which right side spacer do I need a yz, or a wr? My gut says that the hubs are different, because it looks like a yz spacer would leave the bearing exposed, and that wouldn't be right.
  8. Mine got a pretty good ding in it this weekend and I found the 02 yz header for sale. Just need to know if it will fit.
  9. Stefe9999

    Setting oil height

    After very closely using the the fork oil change procedure in the manual, I completed the work and set the height at the desired level and put the fork back together. After a couple days of riding, I decided to re-check the level and it was quite a bit higher. I don't know why it rose, but I have two questions: Is this rising of the level normal, and if so when do you set the level, pre-ride or post ride? BTW, this is on an 01 WR426.
  10. Stefe9999

    Anyone got a tall seat?

    Hamish, This makes me laugh! Here in the middle of the US, I ended up with a European version of the WR. When I first start reading this site, I couldn't figure all the fuss about the seat, getting forward, gray wire, throttle stop.... Then someone had posted a pic of their WR and I looked at it and it didn't look at all like mine. Mine had this weird exhaust, YZ tank, flat seat... Found out later by looking on the European Yamaha site that is how the non-US models come! I replaced the stock seat with the Guts Racing Tall seat foam, soft. It is one of my best mods ever. I'm also 6-3.
  11. BUMP, Anyone on the oil-height measurement question above?
  12. I will ask him and see how he measured it. During this process, I set it myself once at 125mm and it didn't make much difference. Since the air in the fork functions as a secondary spring, I thought that the oil height made most of the difference in the last 1/3 of the travel. This problem is in the first 1/2 or so. I'll check the height myself. To set an actual height of 125mm, do I just take the forks off and springs out, lower the outer tube, and set to 125? Or does it need pumping first? Ga426, the seal bushings and oil are all new. Thanks!
  13. Doc, The forks are the same height, well within 1mm of each other. As far as the axle binding problem, I did the procedure described in the manual, apply grease to the axle, tighten the large nut on the L/S push the handlebars and compress the forks a bunch. Tighten the left side axle nuts, compress them some more then tighten the right side. And of course everything is properly torqued, including the triple clamp nuts. How do you tell if it's bound, is there something you can see? Any other ideas? Thanks
  14. My '01 wr426 forks have Gold Valves, and shim stacks to suit my riding style (off-road with rocks, little MX). After working with a tuner we got it perfect. They would soak up small bumps/rocks very well, yet still were good on big hits. Then, after a crash where the front wheel got tweaked to the left a little, they had become harsh again. I re-tweaked them back into position on the same ride and they got -pretty- good again. I did ride a little while with them tweaked (10min or so). Before and after this ride the right fork had a slight leak. After the ride I had the tuner eval the whole right fork leg. He put in new bushings and fork seal, and cleaned the valve and shim stack and matched the oil heights (90mm I think). Off the bike, the fork action is smooth and not sticky so I don't think the tube is bent. The left leg only needed an oil change. After all that work the fork is still way too stiff on small hits. I bled the air, and tried rebound settings of min/half/max against most settings on the compression clickers. The settings of the clickers seem to make very little difference! So, what could be wrong with a fork that would cause this problem? We haven't looked at the left leg yet, but that is next if I don't get some other ideas. Thanks
  15. Stefe9999

    Thinking about going orange

    Yo Vmax, After our mud trip, I calculated I'm getting 30mpg. Times 3.4 gallons, thats 102 miles. I think my at least my *bike* can make it to your 80-90 mile mark! My forks are back, Can't wait to trying them this week, I'll go to Berthoud one afternoon (Tue or Thurs).