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2can

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About 2can

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  1. Remove the plug wire and blue boot to mske sure they is continuity. The plug boot on my bike developed a break in ghe circuit somehow and it drove me nuts to find. Same symptom and a simple fix. Good luck
  2. Pulled the carb and cleaned all jets though they looked great. Checked the diaphragm and it was like new as well. Filled carb with gas and twisted the throttle and the spray also looked good. After testing the stator and coil I traced the issue to the damn spark plug boot or noise suppressor as it is referred to. Ordered a new one on line and should have it in a couple days and should be back in service. I never would've suspected that one.
  3. Yes, the problem was me. When I re-shimmed the valves I wasn't paying attention and reinstalled the timing chain one tooth off. I pulled my head out of my as_ and it resolved the issue.
  4. Pulled and cleaned both the pilot and main jets which were actually looked good but it had no effect. This weekend I will remove the tank and check plug/coil wires and then pull the carb and start digging around in there if nothing else is obvious. I find it odd I don't even get a whiff of gas when twisting the throttle repeatedly but what the hell do I know. I'll give it a go and hopefully be reporting back after a short ride from the house or just be bitter and frustrated trying to figure it out. I appreciate the input.
  5. Thanks Krannie. I'll pull it tomorrow and take a look at it. I typically drain the carb after rides hoping to prevent carb issues but sh_t happens.
  6. Warmed the bike up on a loop around the block. Got geared up to go out for a ride, fired the bike up and went to take off and it died. Bike wouldn't start again and plenty of gas in tank and in carb as I let some run through the carb. Thinking the float may be stuck and assume I'll need to pull the carb completely out to confirm. Multiple twists on the throttle yielded no gas odor and not sure what else may be a likely cause. Any other item I should go straight to?
  7. It seems like every few rides I run into an issue where I get a short on one or both of the yellow wires on the 2 wire BD harness that runs from the the stator wire harness back to the regulator rectifier. Some shorts may have been due to water intrusion but this isn't always the case. Does this sound like it is attributed to a faulty regulator rectifier? Once this occurs the battery weakens then eventually dies. Multi day or night rides force me to splice new connections. Any feedback would be appreciated.
  8. Drilled, tapped and installed the helicoil this afternoon. Thanks for the heads-up on not trying to use a different style bolt and going with the helicoil. Quick fix and the bike is ready for a weekend baja run now. Appreciate the tip!
  9. The rear(shorter) valve cover bolt will not tighten up. I've chased the threads and reinstalled but this didn't resolve the issue. What's the easiest way to resolve this? Tap it to a larger size and use a larger bolt or is there another way to go about it? The existing bolt is a 6mm what size should it be tapped to and should I use any specific type of bolt or is there some type of other fix?
  10. Thanks for the input. Does anyone know if what the affect is if the gap is considerably less than the .014 that is called out in the book? I really had to narrow the gap down between .004-.006 to get it to kick more freely. Not sure how this will come into play with the new starter though. Maybe I'll install the new starter and leave the valve cover off and crank it over starting at .014 and work my way down until it spins freely. Thanks
  11. Yes, it's a 2006 which I should've noted on the first post as I know the '07-13 models are different. I really appreciate the input. Nothing better than working through your own problems and learning more about the bike along the way.
  12. Krannie, The intake and exhaust are in spec but I still have what seems to be heavy compression on the kick which I believe is also contributing to burning out starter motors. I've seen previous posts stating the reasons why not to kick start and the damage it can do and only had to kick it this week when stuck in BFE. I'm thinking the compression is too much on the starter as evidenced by it being so difficult to kick it over and want to address this prior to dropping in the new starter. When using the magic button it will often turn over slowly and then pick up speed or click first, then start slowly and gain speed before it would start. With a brand new starter it would be strong for a while and then gradually start showing these symptoms before dying. I may be chasing the wrong issue but if it's hard to kick over then it must be hard on the starter correct? I'm going to throw another starter on it but want to get a little more longevity out of it.
  13. My x has always been really hard to kick over which I never do as the magic button most always does the trick but I've burned through a new starter in less than a year and 2300 desert miles. Today I rechecked my valves which are in spec. and then played with adjusting the decompressor arm by closing the gap which did make it easier to kick over. Here's my questions: Is there a minimum gap that you should have on the decompressor arm? The book says .014 with .011 on the exhaust. Can having a gap as low as .004 affect performance? With the gap at .004 the bike kicked over much smoother but still was a bit stiff at the top of the stroke. Once you broke through the top it would smoothe out. Is the proper way to measure gap to use 2 feeler gauges as I am or does this really matter? I'm going to throw another starter in it but want to resolve the decompression issue prior to doing so to lesse the strain on the new starter to hopefully make it start easier and increase its lifespan. Would appreciate some additional insight on dealing with this. Thanks
  14. Just came back from a 5 day trip through Nevada, Arizona and Southern Utah logging over 900 miles. The bikes ran great but my partner and I are thinking of switching from GN4 to Rotella and wasn't sure which was the better of them for long rides. We average 150-200 miles per outing and was wondering if one held up better than the others. I've been running the 20/50 GN4 but was wondering if someone else who makes long runs has some input on oil weight and make that may outperform the GN4.
  15. Both great tips. I appreciate it. I'm surprised how similar it is in size with the IMS 3.2. The only thing that is concern with the design is that the petcocks appear pretty exposed if you dump it in rocks. Good stuff I appreciate it.