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About Bramantecummins

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  1. Aahhhh I didn't even think to do that!
  2. I can't keep pulling the cylinder and guessing at when it's good though.
  3. So I've dug mysf into a rut. I decided to turn my bike into a big bore and bored it out myself, I opted to go with the 3pm overbore but cause of the rotary flap-valve it must be bored eccentric. This cuts the ports at different heights compared to stock and each other, especially the boost port. Can somebody tell me either how to figure out the proper height or give me the heights either stock or "better" than stock Thanks, Brendan
  4. As far as tooling goes a dental setup would work with the proper bits, and hey give me a break. Can we get past that and accept that it's probably not effecting it that much?? When I cut my piston to match I without realizing modified my port timing. I essentially want to replicate what I did only to the cylinder and to each port as it needs it. What youre saying is to take a yz piston and use that?? I thought yz's were cylinder induction? The degrees you gave, are those going to work on my bike and what type of power would that produce?
  5. Stock cylinder, stock piston, ports etc etc.... It was an eyeballed measurement from an awkward angle. I said roughly for a reason. So back to the issue. The bike is a slug on the bottom and flattens on top. I would like to solve this while is apart. High rpms are affected by mismatch more, so that could be a solution for that. Now, after fixing that I would assume it would have more power to be played with, how/what will help more the power around so it's a bit more clutch-friendly. I've never done porting before but I'm not afraid of modifying an engine. If I got the port heights and made a degree wheel up could someone point me in the right direction? And as far as the KTM, can't afford one otherwise I'd have one. I prefer red over orange anyways Keep in mind, I have the head jug and piston out. That's it, engine is in the bike and cases are bolted together.
  6. Honda mismatched parts mre and more as they got more in involved with four strokes. 2003 being the worst. 04 they fixed a few things, 05+ they fixed a few more... Theeennn they killed it. You said you took off from the base of the cylinder because your ports were being blocked a bit, wouldn't that make it worse?
  7. [quote name=rayivers; I recently had .040" machined off a cylinder base to bring the transfers back down' date=' and I was also concerned about the piston-edge 'step' at BDC. I'm still breaking the motor in, but it's running really well so far. Ray[/quote] How's that bike running? If you think it was worth the effort then I'm gonna make the go-ahead and tear into it. As far as the program goes, i have a Mac... If anyone would like to give me a hand I can give them the port heights if they have the program
  8. its alot more than that, my bad haha. its more like .100 above. and it was like that from the factory. and no, theres no gap at TDC.
  9. SEVEN HORSE?? a buddy of mne is always yellin at me to just leave it alone, glad I have to modify everything hahaha So what would the best way of going about this be anyhow? Shave the head or the top of the cylinder? Shaving the head would alter the squishband but lower the volume of the bowl but taking from the cylinder is much more direct although itll mess with the lugs and I'd have to mill the recessed area at two of the lugs if you know what I'm talking about.
  10. At bottom dead center the piston is roughly 25thou. higher than the ports. Ive already expiramented and cut the piston at the port locations and it gained power everywhere.
  11. So I have a 2004 cr 125. I can't leave anything alone and I noticed just how much lower the ports were in relation To the piston. What I want to do is add a couple base gaskets and shave the head to maintain the stock compression but fix the horrible jump from port to piston. Thoughts or recommendations on this? I have access to pretty much any machining tools/equipment and will be cutting the head myself.