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About AndrewZorn

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  1. I agree. I live in a place that is overall just as good (in my opinion) as the Dragon area. In fact, there are roads very similar within miles. I'm going with a friend who does not live nearby and is attending an event. It is also really neat to see so many enthusiasts and whatnot.
  2. I actually might be there the third week in June, maybe I will see you there.
  3. ...and the way it sounds, the reason everyone doesn't do 5x5 is because the extra fuel necessary isn't doing anything. 3x3 is probably the sweet spot with near-stock components?
  4. Okay, I'll probably just leave it alone... I do have a mechanic, just seemed silly to take it in to see if it's fine. I'm trying to do nearly everything myself and learn as I go, but carb work is a step above what I've been doing.
  5. I have never worked on anything carburetor-related, ever, nor do I even have much experience past oil and brake maintenance. The instructions for jetting overwhelms and intimidates me. I know the response sounds lazy, but I just don't want to **** up what is at the very least a decently running engine. If I tape up the hole, what could I watch out for as far as signs that it is running too rich? I'm also still confused about the way hole area is mentioned more than filter type/condition, and the advice to run without the side panel as a way to test the jetting. Perhaps I just need to go tape it to 3x3 and see if I can tell a difference, and keep the tape on if it doesn't run worse. As far as running sweet... it's the only DRZ400 I've ever been on, and it's been awesome to me since day one. If I had to invent some issues, I'd say pop/crackle during decel from all but the lowest RPM, and what feels like a big power loss after the RPM gets high. Both of these are normal, but I'm not sure to what degree. Surely the hole size does not affect starting, does it? I feel like I need to choke it more than anyone else to get it started, unless it needs to be 70*F+ outside for a normal start.
  6. AndrewZorn

    What did you do to your DRZ400 today?

    I finally did the CS Loctite fix, mostly because I was changing to 14/41. New rear tire, Pilot Power 150. At first I couldn't tell the difference in 14/41, but now I've exaggerated the loss of top end in my mind and I feel buyer's (and worker's) remorse. I don't ever even go on the highway with it, I'm just all worked up inside.
  7. I've kind of always known about this, but didn't worry about it this much until tonight. I knew about the 3x3 mod before buying the DRZ, I just didn't know where to look to actually verify. The previous owner assured me it was 3x3ed and rejetted, and it had an open RS-2 exhaust. Since the thing ran well, I believed him (and still do). When I got inside a couple weeks after getting it, I noticed the 3x3 hole is more like a 4x3 hole. Of course the simplest part had to be wrong. I instantly went and read online, coming away with the opinion that one cannot have too large of a hole in the airbox. This made (and still makes?) sense to me... isn't the filter the ultimate bottleneck, not the hole in the airbox? Why can people just run the bike with the side panel off? Again, isn't the filter going to ultimately control the airflow? The 'box' itself seems redundant to me for this reason. The filter is a K&N, if it matters. Lately I have the feeling that is wrong, and am considering taping up my hole to make it 3x3. This makes me uneasy though. What if the bike was jetted to use the 4x3 hole? When someone 'rejets' a DRZ, do they usually use known-good settings, or just play with it to make it right? If there are known-good settings, then I feel like I can adjust the hole size, but if the thing is tuned to a 4x3 hole, then I shouldn't touch it! Is there some way I can test it, without redoing the whole thing? What most recently set me off is reading that the sign of running too lean is having a jumpy throttle. I feel like mine lunges at low speed with barely any twist, but I feel the same way about my totally stock 600rr, so I can't really be trusted. I get pops/crackling on deceleration, but I thought that was normal. The exhaust certainly does not smell too rich. It isn't in my nature to just forget about it and ride. Then again, I'm not that mechanically inclined. I can't imagine the previous owner was completely ignorant or anything... the fact that it has some of these popular mods assures me he didn't just buy it new from the dealership and beat on it for 2000 miles before selling it to me.
  8. AndrewZorn

    Passenger peg eliminator bracket... necessary?

    I'd feel fine ruining the stock pegs if they weren't so valuable, and apparently, hard to come by. I think I'll get the bracket if I decide to keep the passenger pegs off. On that note... one of my passenger pegs will not fold UP. It gets stuck in the down position. Inserting an object to recess the ball bearing will get it moving again. I completely disassembled it and cleaned it... same thing! The ball bearing just gets too well stuck in the hole. My latest idea is to just allow them both to loosely flop around by removing the spring/ball. This still allows the "hot chick on the back", standing on rear pegs if I ever decide to, all while NOT leaving bruises on the back of my legs from backing it up... But any ideas with the sticky pegs first?
  9. AndrewZorn

    Passenger peg eliminator bracket... necessary?

    Sorry, I guess I didn't even know what the stuff the previous owner put on was actually called. It's the RS2 can with what I thought was a titanium (this is where I got Ti from?) pipe. The mount on the can is very beefy and connects directly to the bike. The midpipe has a bolt hole that was secured to the passenger peg. 3 -> 2 points of contact when I remove the midpipe bolt from the passenger peg. The weight of the stock pipe is what I was referring to. I'll look into this some more; likely end up just buying a bracket.
  10. AndrewZorn

    Passenger peg eliminator bracket... necessary?

    I don't know about the stock one, but here is what I'm saying: The Yoshimura attaches behind the passenger pegs as well as to the passenger peg mount. Are both really necessary if the behind-peg location is already good? I'm trying to figure out if the passenger peg bracket is all that important. When I look at it, the threads that the right side peg (or bracket) would go into actually slides up and down anyway. Can't get a whole lot of stabilization there, can I? To clarify, nothing is 'swinging free'. There are already two points of contact: where the pipe bolts to the engine, and where the can hangs from a beefy Yoshimura mount (behind pegs). I can move the whole motorcycle by grabbing the passenger peg point (unattached) and cannot see wobble in the pipe. This is why I'm wondering if a bracket is necessary. I mentioned the stock exhaust because I theorize its higher weight may have necessitated the OEM bracket (passenger peg).
  11. AndrewZorn

    What oil are you running in your SM???

    I'm not saying I wouldn't have used something different had I stumbled across your post yesterday. During a quick search yesterday, I saw no negative information for the T6, so it is what I used. I may consider a short-interval change to something else, now... I did not mean to suggest you were wrong.
  12. AndrewZorn

    What oil are you running in your SM???

    I just put in Shell Rotella T6 the other day. Only because it was so highly recommended for my 600rr, and the weight spec matched the DRZ. It's supposedly pretty good...
  13. Last night I removed my passenger pegs, then noticed the place where the oft-mentioned eliminator bracket would go. However, I don't have the bracket in-hand yet, and honestly do not know if I want to spend $30 on one. I may make one, later, but I began thinking... I have a Yoshimura Ti exhaust, and that is surely much lighter than the stock setup. The can is secured to the frame, and the pipe itself is attached at the other end. I try to rock the section which was secured to the passenger pegs, and can detect no movement whatsoever. Of course I'd take and install a bracket if it was free, if for no other reason than to make it look more clean. I just wanted to get an opinion as to whether or not a third support for a lighter-than-stock exhaust is really necessary in a place that doesn't see much/any wiggle or load. Also, I'm still looking for an integrated tail light. The Edge is nearly perfect, but I want to eliminate signal stems as well, and the cost of the Edge + integrated board is very high. I've been searching around for this for quite some time, and am nearly ready to just get something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOTORCYCLE-LED-INTEGRATED-BRAKE-LIGHT-BAR-/250651157080?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5bf92258 even though I know for a fact they are not that great. I just hate signal stalks, and want to get the most minimalistic look I can.