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About Chrisnorman

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  1. Sorted. can't believe I did a top end and partial bottom end rebuild and missed that the main jet had vibrated loose and was sitting in the bottom of the float bowl. All sorted and running like a dream.
  2. Hi guys, I'm a long time lurker of TT but this is my first post and I'm helping you can point in the right direction with my PW50. I brought a 2nd hand one for my 5 yr old daughters birthday which is to be her first bike. straight off I put new plastics graphics and top a new top end kit including cylinder piston and rings. On the day of her birthday it ran great for a few hrs and then stalled. I figured it was a fouled plug or something however after replacing the plug it did start but barely idled at full throttle with the choke on when I let the throttle roll of it stalled out. There was also an incredible amount of black smoke, so I resolved the main seal was shot and replaced it. Whilst I was at it I also replaced the absorbers in the drive gear as they were pretty shredded. I then put the bike back together and to my surprise I still cant get it to run right, there's no more black smoke, so that's fixed. If I turn the fuel off right before all the fuel has gone through it kicks in and runs perfect until it stalls from no fuel, but turn the petcock back on and it barely idles again, does this sound like to much fuel? I'm pretty confused. I don't think it's electrical which only leaves the carby but wanted to find out your opinions? Cheers
  3. Cheers Capt Justin! I remixed at 33:1 and it feels so much better. Ban is no longer resisting on the angry little beast!
  4. Hey Guys, After some long hours and a small cash investment I have finally finished my 1986 YZ80 rebuild and now I'm just playing with the mix to get in running better. I've started at the workshop manuals recommended 24:1 but it's so smokey and and is resisting ban. I can definitely see a few spark plugs going down the drain with this mix. Iv'e been running around 40-50:1 on my YZ 250. What do you guys think would be better? Just take it up slowly and see how it goes? or jump straight in at 40:1 or 35:1? Cheers, Chris
  5. Yes that is them, SERCO. In my opinion a bad representation of Wiseco which is what they are known as here. To clarify I am not faulting the part but the workmanship of the Licensed Australian Distributer and workshop. My posts in this forum are mostly constructive but I found their service really annoying. My bike mechanic said he would have blown up at them if they sent the part back to his shop.
  6. Timely post I had the worst experience with Wiseco recently. I sent them my cylinder and the provided a new piston and bored out my little 80. all up a hectic cost of $300. I put it back together and ran it for not even an hr and when I pulled the top end out to change a leaky gasket, I noticed my cylinder wall and piston had been scoured due to them not chamfering my ports. Thanks Wiseco!
  7. Hooray!!! I got it back together and still no good! It was running like a wet dog. Couldn't believe that it had gone from so good to so bad! I took it to my local bike shop for a diagnosis. They made a list of things wrong with the bike but nothing that I considered would actually make it behave like it did. So I paid the $66 charge for them looking at it and pulling it apart and took it home in a bunch of pieces! When I got home I noticed the timing was out so I pulled the fly wheel (which came of way to easy!) and adjusted the timing to where it should be. Then I realised hang on there was no little clip sitting in the crank end to lock the fly wheel! In my haste to put it back together after the rebuild I had forgotten it. So I located one off my other YZ 80 which is in pieces and put it in. I haven't started it yet but I am almost certain with out that fly wheel locked combined with how much the timing was out, that it was definitely the problem. Like I said it ran right once but then I think the flywheel would of started free spinning and the timing would have been all over the shop! Will finnish getting it back together tonight and report back. Pretty lame thread actually. I'm quite sure no one is really concerned that somewhere in oz a 1986 yz80 is going to roar to life tonight however I'm stoked and it means I will be able to take it out to the farm with my 2000 yz250 this easter for my bro to ride.
  8. I seem to have a magic drill bit that gets these out first time every time. I know your struggle though, the case I split before the one I did today I tried to wind out with a screw driver. No way in hell that would work and I like you, I ended up rounding all the screws and ended up having to reverse drill them out with some Sidchrome threaded screw drill bits. I Turned a 2 minute job into a 2 hr job! Very annoying!
  9. Definitely! Whilst you have the cases open it s the perfect time to replace all those seals and bearings. It maybe a while before you go back in and you don't want to unnecessarily go back inside in 6 months time to change a seal if you have the opportunity to do so now. All the tools above are exactly what you need to get the job done with ease. When installing your bearings make sure you heat your cases and freeze you bearing before hand. That will make them slide right in and eliminate the need to belt them in and cause damage. Good luck have fun. I only did my first bottom end about 6 months ago, mine was unnecessarily hard because I didn't have all the tools but with these in your collection it will be a breeze.
  10. At the moment I'm running motul in my yz 250 and yz 80. I had previously tried some yamalube in my yz80 and aprilia 2 stroke roadbike. Thing is I noticed improved power in the roadbike when I switched to yamalube, maybe the oil pump settings made the perfect mix for yamalube in the carby but that stuff boosted power by a noticeable amount.
  11. Ye I did as captain and just drained it through the clutch, turns maybe a 2 minute job into 5 minute job no biggy and at least I know that bolt aint going to come out on me. Maybe next time I'll take get it taken out... Ha ha
  12. So many possibilities there. I also have a YZ80 with brand new piston and rings and I can still push the kickstart through it's stroke fairly easy with my hand though that one may have seemed a little easier. Here's some things to try. Remove spark plug and look what condition it is in. Then hold the spark plug so the edge you put the spanner on to tighten it is against one of the head bolts (hold it in that position by the wire) then push the kick through it's stroke whilst keeping an eye on the spark plug gap. You should see a spark? If there is no spark your problem is electric and most likely not earthed properly or faulty kill switch, CDI or coil. If there is no spark come I'll come back to this point and try talk you through some options. Obviously after checking the kill switch and earth I would try a new plug if you haven't already. Can you feel compression through the full stroke of the kick or is the kick only engaging toward the end of the stroke? maybe the idler gear isn't connecting with the kickstart gear properly. Once again if you think this is the problem let me know and I can explain how to check that. (When you started kicking it it did sound fine, I just wasn't sure when you were pushing it with your hand) Check fuel, fuel tap, lines and fuel filter if you have one and make sure fuel is getting nicely to the carby. It could be a good opportunity to pull the carby apart and give it a clean, if you do this check that the reeds are in good order whilst you have the carby off. So if you find you do have spark and fuel is getting through to the carby and there is a good seal between the boot reeds and cylinder then probably yes, it's time to take the top end off and inspect. You will most probably need a top end gasket kit to get it back together once it is apart as well as what ever else you find you may need in there, Piston rings bore etc. Be sure to try kicking it quite a few times with the choke on then with the choke off and throttle half way, alternate that every 5 or so kicks. Mine is fussy and that is how she likes to be started.
  13. Amazing job!
  14. Just put it on youtube and post the link here. Once we see it we can do our best to help.
  15. Yep I have to say I agree with the above posters. Noise at idol whilst in neutral with no clutch abnormalities doest leave a whole lot of other options. You said the noise was primarily from the left which indicates movement in the magneto or worn main bearings. Other possibilities would be the bottom crank bearing or even though its on the other side something with the water pump. I also agree that I would tear into sooner than later in the hope of saving some coin down the track.