Joester

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Joester last won the day on October 5 2011

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About Joester

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  1. The DRZ in the video was my brother bike, but he made an XR650 supermoto and sold the DRZ to my friend, Ron, the one in the video. I can ask my brother what the jets were and see if he remembers. The exhaust on my R6 has an exup valve, which is a butterfly valve in the exhaust that opens and closes dependent on RPM to supply ideal back pressure to the engine. The O2 sniffer could not get accurate readings because of how far down the exhaust the valve is and the sniffer couldnt get far enough in without hitting the valve. Because the bike is completely stock, I know its running fine, so I just ran without an AFR reading. I'm not comparing them, only posting because some people may be interested. I used to own a DRZ400sm and I was pretty active here. I tried switching over to the R6 forums but to tell the truth the R6 forums are just..... they're just awful. So I lurk around here still and post every now and then because you guys are cool! Here's my old bike! P.S. - Still waiting on the DRZ dyno sheet from Ron. He said he'd send it to me today but we will see.
  2. the one that came in had some mods, but im not sure what all was done. Personally I would have though 193 was enough! haha
  3. Just because its newer doesn't mean its better. the 2010+ R6s make less peak horsepower than the 08-09s, but im not saying you're wrong. 118 does seem high, but i wasnt even expecting anything less than 110. 112 is a common number for stock 2008 R6s. I am going to try to re-calculate both vehicles using the correct RPM. I have agreed from the start that the DRZ is high. I know that. I am suspicious that my R6 is also slightly high.
  4. This is totally false. HP is a function of RPM and torque. If you don't know RPM you CANNOT get a hp value. A dyno does not record horsepower whatsoever. It records torque and RPM and then solves for horsepower. The first run that we did with the RPMs way off, the dyno said max horsepower was 29. HP = (Torque * RPM)/5252, when torque is given in lb*ft. Imagine this. The dyno records 30 lb*ft of torque, but it THINKS that is at 1000rpm. for that scenario, it would output a hp value of 5.7hp. Now we realized that we messed up, and instead of the RPMs being 1000, turns out we were actually at 5000rpm. Now I'm making 28.6hp! This is exactly what is happening. We dont know exactly what RPM we are at for a given torque value. A few hundred RPM can make a big difference in HP readings when we're dealing with such small hp numbers. EDIT: torque also depends on RPM because RPM is where the dyno gets its ratio from. If RPM is not correct everything will be messed up. I doubt I can fix It, but I will try. It will just be a whole lot of math.
  5. Also, today, some guy on a S1000rr came in, put down 200.6rwhp, and then left. No one even knew the guy! haha I don't have a video though because I left to go to Steak 'n' Shake for lunch
  6. Okay, I told the dyno operator 9700, I'll figure it out when i look at the sheet. I do agree that the numbers seem high. Does the Torque seem reasonable? Torque is not a function of RPM so it should be correct. 48 lb*ft on my R6 seems pretty much perfect. I think they are supposed to be ~48.5 from the factory. My R6 pulls to 17,000 according to the tach, but on my dyno sheet it drops off at 15,800, so there might be a very slight issue with the RPMs on both graphs. I pulled all the way to the limiter every time.
  7. I think the drz is high because of the rpm thing, but the 08 r6's are more powerful than the 07s. They are rated at 136bhp, so I think 118 is about right. It was on a dynomite dyno which is supposed to be really accurate. Maybe your dyno read low, but either way, at least now I have a baseline to work with. A few horsepower isnt anything to argue about. Does anyone know what rpm the drz is supposed to cut spark? I'd like to get the torque values into an excel spreadsheet and then modify the rpm to be correct to get an accurate hp reading.
  8. Friends 2006 DRZ400sm 14k miles Yoshi RS-2 pipe CV40K carb dialed in with an O2 bung 42 rwhp (results may be slightly off, we had to estimate RPMs based off of redline, so that will effect hp readings, but not torque readings) 30 lb*ft torque WILL POST DYNO SHEET LATER I FORGOT TO TAKE A SCAN OF IT AND ITS OVER AT MY FRIENDS HOUSE My 2008 R6 7k miles 100% stock 118.6 rwhp @ 14,250rpm 48 lb*ft @10,350 rpm and again at 12,650 rpm
  9. Bring it to me I'll fix it for $2500 No but really you should look into a used engine, or depending on the extent of the damage a new rod, piston, cylinder, and head. If you do the work yourself you could have a 50hp reliable DRZ for probably around $800 I would think. Like I said, this all depends on the amount of damage. Then again if it somehow destroyed the whole engine or something oddly ridiculous like that, you can always pick up a nice used engine on the cheap, like others have said. When it stopped running did it start to leak fluids? Did it violently stop running as in lock up hard, or were you able to coast to a stop? Do you have any pictures of the damage or are you just going off of what the shop told you? I would think the shop's price quote would be using all brand new parts. you can get nice used parts like a whole head assembly for a third or even a quarter of the price of new. Good luck on whatever route you decide to take.
  10. ^^^ looks like something I would make!
  11. I bought my 08 with 4200 miles on it for $3600. I sold it a year later with 10k miles on it for $3700... I chalked that up as a win in my books.
  12. I usually just put on a coat of any old synthetic grease I have in the work shop. If you really want to go all out, that ceramic stuff looks pretty legit, but like I said, I haven't had any problems using regular old grease. using regular grease may not work if you are in a race environment as it will become crusty with heat, but i've found that it works fine for the street.
  13. Also I dont like a speedo that attaches to the handlebars. That screams "ghetto" to me. Depends on the thickness and type. They are going to waterjet it and then bend it so i really doubt they could use 6061 T6 aluminum because that likes to fracture if you bend it a tight radius. Ask me how I know! I had fabricated myself an aluminum license plate holder back when I had a DRZ and that worked great. I'm not sure what type of alloy it was, but it was probably a 3000 or 5000 series alloy. I don't remember, but if I had to guess it was probably .125" thick and it held up just fine. Aluminum will also proabably be much cheaper than stainless steel. So my vote would be to find a nice formable, but also strong aluminum alloy and go with that. I'm sure the place thats doing the machining for you could offer a good suggestion. I'd bet that if you got 10 done they would be like $25 each. just a gander though.
  14. Here is that picture for all you lazy kids Note: This is NOT the same mount as OP is talking about making. The one OP is talking about will probably sit a little further forwards and not attach to the handlebars in any way. Thats for the neutral/signal/overtemp lights I would assume.
  15. I believe its running rich. Its up to you to figure out why. Is the choke stuck on? did the fuel needle get turned out or fall out by accident? is the air filter clean, and airways unobstructed?