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About GDI70

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    enjoying the outdoors. rock crawling, camping, and drinking beer. i will build another bike when business allows me. harleys and dirt bikes are my two wheeled interests.

    the good guys in the suspension industry; Ride Concepts, I've used in several makes/models and skill levels. the product always delivers. DGS suspension, specializing in off road and woods setups, Russ is an exceptional tuner. Pro Tune suspension, ktm specialist, Corey is also one of the best. KAS Suspension in England; Karl is killing it over the pond.

  1. Those earlier showa single oring piston bands wear much quicker than later models. You can get parts at Honda dealer.
  2. You can inspect the bladder, and grease the lip where the cap is with some white lithium grease.
  3. Slickoleum is very similar to slick honey. I use slickoleum, but as stated earlier, most waterproof mx grease works fine. Just staying on top of service is key.
  4. We discssed the increase in main rate needed due to disaled pressure tank when converting to oc. Also, getting an appropriate base stack with the desired float. Different base configuration. I have a preloaded stack via hoop shim. Just basic suspension geek speak. Lol
  5. My friend and I have been revisiting some oc tuning theories. I think if you were to oc the 4cs, you could get close, and save some cash. You can always go back to original design.
  6. My longacre 3000lb tester has served me well for 10+ years. Would like a fork spring tester, as the intercomp has the option. But, I do larger, longer coils as well so mine is fine.
  7. You can make 4cs work with a std revalve. No law saying you can't, but the design has some issues, so it becomes a cost vs. benefit debate. Not all revalves created equal. You can oc them as well. Depends on how much you want to spend over the course of owning the bike. Look at it this way; some don't need a whole lot to be happy, and some do. Shane Watts can ride the wheels off stockers, so can Knight. They weren't born with a silver bike in their mouths, so they must have practiced; heaps. So many overlook the chassis as a tuning parameter. Gotta go with a snake oil salesman from the get-go. Not always, and dalsaggio is far from that. Imo, they are best aftermarket component; bar none. However, if budget doesn't allow, make due with revalve, and choose wisely.
  8. Get the leaf mid sorted, and build a good base; you don' need much beyond that.
  9. If you are a woods only guy, look at some older ktms with the oc forks, and no linkage. To me, that's something that tunes really well. Or, keep the Honda and get a Harley and go see some stuff! Happy New Year to you.
  10. You never sent me your stuff. I'm a woods tuning mf'er. Lol be good George
  11. That's me almost. Scaled down to part time, and I only work for "good" customers. Sick of the mx'ers entitlement. But, I second the pro tune recommendation. Also, Russ at dgs is right there as well. You can't go wrong with either.
  12. What type of riding are you setting up the bike for? There are several reputable companies for any type of riding. Just be aware if not right, shipping back may be a pita.
  13. At least the crosshatch is repairable if a nick occurs, while your dlc will be compromised. Stepping down with whichever scuffing method you choose works fine. Seals, wipers and bushings also work in, so initial assembly is different after "break in" of new parts.
  14. Call mx tech. They know that adjuster well.
  15. At 225 lb, you would be on the heavy side for mx, but in trails you could get away with running less psi than you would for mx also. I think for woods that will be fine, air forks tend to be soft in first part of the travel. I've done a few psf 2s and I think that fork may be better in trail junk than it's predecessor.