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About timmh

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  1. A few of my buddies and myself are planning to come up and ride Sycamore one day this weekend. We are all A/B riders and aren't afraid of the tech stuff. I tried riding up there once but wasn't able to find the better trails that I have seen so many times on pics and video. If anyone is interested in leading a ride for us let me know. Saturday or Sunday is still up in the air so we are flexible at this point. Thanks
  2. The offroad one will work. I just didnt realize there were two options before. As far as he Polisport ones I just dont really like the way they look.
  3. I thought about that Kurt, but that stock light weighs a ton with the glass lens. I though about getting that HID from you but with everything else I need the cost would get too pricey right now. I was also considering one of these... http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/227/1156/5747/27675/Trail-Tech-X2-Dual-Sport-Motorcycle-Headlight I just don't do enough night riding to justify the price of anything better.
  4. I currently have a headlight/mask from an 04' 450 EXC on my 07' 300 XC-w. As expected a rock finally was roosted directly into the headlight shattering the glass lens. I don't like the idea of putting another light in there with the glass lens. Does anyone know of a stock replacement light option that has a plastic lens?
  5. Went up and rode in the Pines on Saturday. We rode and elevation between 5500-6500 ft. My bike is jetted for 2500 ft and I did not rejet for the change. It was still in the mid to upper 90's also. I had problems with a bad hesitation when cracking the throttle open. The bike was also flaming out really easily. Adusting the fuel screw in would make it a little better but would also make the popping much worse.
  6. I adjusted the screw exactly as you described. It runs perfect but still pops. I think the heat is not helping the issue right now. We did cure the idle problem by replacing the slide plate and seal. Heading up to the Pines to ride today. I'll report back with the results from a real ride!
  7. The pilot is already a 48 though. I had previously tried a 50 but it seemed to make the popping worse. My buddy took it for a spin and he didnt think the popping was bad enough to worry about so maybe Im just being to anal. The new idle issue is a problem though. My local shop had a slide plate and seal in stock today so I am going to replace them tonight. We're heading up to the high country to ride tomorrow so we'll see how it does.
  8. I absolutely love my 90/100-21 MX71. Seems to work the best for me here in So.Az in rocky desert. The side lugs all tend to crack at the base making you think they are going to chunk off at any time but they never do. As far as the bigger size...more cushion for the pushin!
  9. I did accidentally get the slide seal wet with carb cleaner. It wrinkled up real bad and I thought for sure it was toast. Once it dried out it looked good again so I put it back in. Maybe there was a slight enough imperfection in it that I missed. I will go by the shop and get a new one today. I might as well clean that fuel screw passage again while I have the carb back out.
  10. Got the chance to mess with the bike a bit yesterday. I rode it over to a friends house to get it warmed up. We can get the bike to a point where it runs really well and has minor decel pop, but when we do there are idle problems. With the fuel screw set to 2 1/4 turns out and the idle set to about 1700 rpms the throttle response is really good and popping minimal. The problem is at that setting the idle seems to want to get stuck at about 22-2300 rpms occasionally. You have to crack it open a time or two to get it to drop back down. We pulled the tank and adjusted the throttle cable. It was a little out of adjustment but that doesnt seem to affect the problem. We can cure the idle problem by richening it up but then the throttle starts to bog when cracked open. Checked all the vent lines and nothing is pinched. Double checked for air leaks and couldnt find any. I had rode the bike to work yesterday also and it seems like the idle was only an issue in the afternoon heat...102°. Anyone have other suggestions or ideas?
  11. I checked for leaks but couldnt find any. And no smog on this bike at all. I'm pretty baffled at this point. I have tried every single thing you guys have reccomended but I cant seem to get it straight. I am going on a club ride this coming weekend, I'll see if I we can get it figured out then.
  12. Finally got my bike finished and back together. I pulled the carb and completely went through it. I put a 50 leak jet in and I tested and adjusted the AP squirt. I am getting about a 7-8ft. squirt for 1 second and it just barely misses the slide. Today I finally got the bike out for a test ride to get the fuel screw adjusted correctly. After a good warm up and ride around the neighborhood I adjusted the idle and fuel screw per the instructions that you guys explained. I get the highest idle with the fuel screw 2 turns out. Problem is I still get a bunch of deceleration pop at that adjustment. The only way to get rid of it is to turn the screw out more past the point of the highest idle. I adjusted the idle back down to about 1700 rpms but it seems to want to increase/decrease at will while riding it around testing it. If I turn the screw out more I can get rid of the popping and it still seems to run good. Any thoughts?
  13. I have an o-ring on the linkage and the rivet shaved down. The linkage arm and the set screw stay together all the way through the travel. Therefore it sounds like I can get the biggest effect by changing the leak jet and adjusting the squirt timing. (And a full carb service!) I will save the AP cover and the R & D spring for a little bit down the road when I feel like pulling the carb again. I just built wheels, replaced the exhaust system, replaced some plastic, and a whole mess of other small things that the bike was needing. I know the small amount that it costs to replace them now doesn't sound like much but after having just spent $1400 on the bike it does! Parts should be in next week to get started and I think all of my questions are answered at this point. I will post up again when its done and I can get it out for a test ride.
  14. I have a couple of questions for you Krannie. I realized I mistyped the AP pump cover, it a QS2 not 3. I'm not sure if that makes a difference in your suggestion to replace it or not. How critical is it that I replace the cover? What is bad about the Boyesen? Only asking because I have somewhat tapped out the budget on the bike lately and if I don't have to spend the little bit extra it helps. I still plan on replacing the emulsion tube and changing the leak jet though. I just recently took the diaphragm out and shaved the rivet down. It looked to be in good shape otherwise. Should I keep it or replace it? Do you know where I can buy the R & D ap spring? I have looked all over and I'm not finding it anywhere.
  15. I figured when nobody suggested the idea of putting a bigger jet in that it probably wouldnt work. At least I learned something by trying...lol. The carb is definitely coming out and I am absolutely going to clean and run a wire through everything to make certain I get it all. I really do appeciate the help guys. I'm off to the shop here shortly to get the parts I need.