Jump to content

762SPR

Members
  • Content Count

    1,300
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 762SPR

  • Rank
    TT Gold Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Idaho

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. 762SPR

    Need help finding front wheel bearings

    A bearing puller is always a handy tool to have in the shop but usually you dont need them for wheel bearings. Usually there is a piece of tube between the bearings as a spacer, if you put a punch in at an angle from the outside on one bearing, through the center and onto the inner race of the opposite side bearing, you can push the spacer to the side and then smack out the bearing with a hammer on the punch. Give it a whack and then move the punch to the opposite side and whack it again. Should come out fairly easy. Then flip the hub over and knock out the other one. Remember to hit one side, then hit the other so you dont get the bearing wedged in there at an angle! The bearing puller should work just fine as well, I just figured I'd share the other way if someone ever finds themself without one. As the poster above mentioned, make sure there aren't any snap rings holding the bearings in or you will be pounding for a long time! Now, when it comes time to put the bearings back in there are a few things to keep in mind: NEVER pound on the inner race of a bearing you want to keep. It's fine if you are removing them to replace like I suggested above, but if you pound on the inner race of a ball bearing it is possible for the balls to deform or put pits into the races and you will ruin the bearing (you will feel the lumpyness as you spin it) this is especially important with cheap bearings because the balls and races usually aren't hardened as much as quality bearings or they use low quality steel. A hydraulic shop press works great if you have one big enough to fit your wheel in. Short of that a hammer and appropriate sized socket work great or a piece of allthread and some nuts and washers from the hardware store also can work. If you choose to hammer them in, find a piece of pipe or tube with a square edge that closely matches the outside diameter of the bearing. Obviously if the bearing is recessed you will need something slightly smaller. Depending on the size of the bearing, a socket can work great for this, or for the shop press. Make sure you adequately support the backside of the hub, not the rim or the spokes or you risk tweaking them. A couple blocks of wood work great. Start by gently tapping before you hit it like an ape, making sure to check you are going in straight. If it starts going crooked, tap the high side. Should go in without heavy pounding, if seems like it is taking too much effort, chances are pretty good it is crooked. A large diameter piece of allthread works great too. Get a piece with as large diameter as you can while still fitting through the bearing. Get 2-4 heavy washers as well and of course some nuts. Just like the socket, matching the OD of the bearing with your washers is ideal. You can use a big one, then a smaller one, then your nut if needed. If you cant get an exact match, it is OK to press on the inner race of the bearing with this method because you aren't pounding it and running the risk of hitting it crooked and sending a spike of force through a single ball, you are evenly pressing on all the balls at once. Assembly everything together (dont forget your spacer if you have one!) And then carefully tighten the nuts to pull the bearings into the hub at the same time. Again making sure it stays square. It should stay pretty square but if it starts going wonky you can try either griefing on the allthread that is sticking out to straighten it or lightly tapping the high points on the bearing to straighten it. If ALL ELSE fails, there's always the ol' piece of wood and hammer. The logic behind this one is the wood takes the shock out of your hit so you run less risk of damaging the bearing with the strike of a metal hammer. Not ideal, but I know I've done it in a pinch and felt guilty later... Whatever method you choose, a few things can help the process: a light coat of grease outside the bearing. Freezing the bearing. Heating the hub (or a combination of heating the hub and freezing the bearing) sometimes this combo will allow the bearings to just drop in, which is always nice. For engines I usually use a propane torch, for a painted wheel, boiling water can work well like the poster above suggested.
  2. 762SPR

    Need help finding front wheel bearings

    Outside diameter, inside diameter, and width is all you need if you cant find a marking on the bearing itself. Measure in mm. Take note of the shield configuration (inside, outside, both, as well as plastic or metal) if you cant get that exact config, you can always take shields off with a small pick. For a wheel bearing I would probably leave both on, it's more important inside of an engine. Ask for a quality US, German, or Japanese bearing. It does make a pretty big difference and the Chinese ones will wear out MUCH faster. Japanese OEMs almost always use NSK, NTN, KOYO or sometimes IJK bearings, but US (Timken, torrington) and German (&%$#@!... yes, &%$#@! 😅) **edit** ok, apparently it censors that "eff ay gee" word, but that is the brand name haha** or other European brands will work just fine. Cheap Indian or Chinese bearings are junk. Your local bearing store will be able to get you sorted if you pull the old ones and bring them in.
  3. I guess I'm gonna be the odd man out... I think buying a new bike is dumb. Take some time and researh exactly what you want. 2 or 4 stroke? Brand? Displacement? Then what tech/features you want. Electric start? Fork style? EFI? After that you should have your year range narrowed down pretty well. For example if you wanted a fuel injected 4 stroke so you didn't have to mess with carbs you would have to start after year x when they were intorduced. Or when I brought my last bike I knew I wanted a YZ250 so I looked up which year had the best engine, I figured I could swap parts like forks and didn't care that much about the plastic shape. I like steel frames so I knew I was looking for an early 2000's bike. Find the best condition in your price range and instead of throwing money away the first time you ride the bike, you the money for maintenance. Learn how to work on it yourself if you dont know already and you will also be learning a valuable skill AND saving money. You will know your bike better so when something starts getting worn or breaks you know what to do. Who said new bikes were better anyway? How many times has a new something come out and had issues? Recalls? Year X had less power than the year before, or its suspension didn't feel as good. If there's new tech you really want just wait a year or two until they hit the market used. If you WANT a new bike then go for it. If you want the latest greatest minty fresh spotless bike that's the only way to go. If you're afraid to do maintenence yourself or just dont have the time, then by all means throw money at the dealer... But aside from those reasons I can't think of a good one not to buy used. For the price differential you can pretty much refresh the motor, replace swingarm and wheel bearings, brake pads, chain and sprocket and call it a day. Forget about aesthetics and you won't have to worry about scratching it up on the trail. Me and my bikes have a lot in common: they may be ugly but they put in work!😂
  4. I used to work in a machine shop/gunsmith for a few years. Now I mostly do welding and fabricating. Send me a pm or email (my user name @gmail.com) and we can talk.
  5. I must have misunderstood the first post: And somehow gotten the impression that this was about printing parts with a home 3D printer. My apologies... Either way, the only point I'm trying to prove, from my own persinal expierience is 3D printers have many uses for a dirt bike owner and that even with a home printer you can make many useful parts, even ones that don't get bolted onto the bike directly. The tech and materials are here now for an owner to print many parts IN HOME for their own bikes at very low cost. Again this is all based on my personal experience. If the input of someone who has actually DONE the things that were inquired about in the first post is unwelcome and people just want to speculate or throw tech articles at each other then I'll take my leave...
  6. 3D printed exhaust? No, it would melt... BUT it did save me countless hours fitting this exhaust I made for a YZ 250! Two stroke exhaust is unique because at each length it needs to be a specific diameter. Each of these 30+ cones has two specific diameters, two specific miter angles, AND a specific clock ing rotation. I was able to print each section and fit them on the actual bike, then make adjustments to the miter amgles and reprint a cone if needed so I could get a perfect, close fit without sacrificing the geometry for engine performance. It still took a long time, but even so, the printer saved me countless hours and I think the results speak for themselves.
  7. Yes, but that is not the thing you keep seeing on the news, is it? That's what I was talking about, that's the kind of product an average Joe can produce with a home use desktop printer. A laser sintered metal printer is a whole other ball game and is a step up from even the furnace sintered process I went over in my post. With such a machine you're basically on the level of making your own forging or machining from a solid billet. It ceases to be a story then. Everyone is looking their mind because "your neighbor might be producing these baby slaughtering fully semi automatic GHOST GUNS that are immune to metal detectors with their desktop printer!!!" When that simply isn't true. A sintered metal machine is on the tier of a high quality cnc milling machine as far as cost and operation. You can make metal parts with both, you can make guns with both but it's not exactly cheap or simple or something DIY. I used to work for a gunsmith and machined lowers from a solid block of aluminum. Again Apples to apples we are talking about consumer level home desktop printers that anyone can make parts for their bike for. And on THAT topic it is entirely practical and cost effective to make certain bike parts. Like I said you can get a good quality printer for $500 to $800 say a prusa or pulse matterhackers.com is my favorite vendor, their pulse is a great printer and tons of other pleases sell the well known prusa printers. Keep in mind though that you will also need a method for creating the models that you will then print. I use solidworks through work but many people use the free version of autocad 360 fusion. Filament will depend on the quality amd type of material. PLA probably isnt the best for durable outdoor parts, but ABS or PETG would work well and are inexpensive. Were talking probably $1-$3 for a print the size of your fist. If you go with something more exotic like nylonX or some carbon infused filament the price goes up. Your print software usually will tell you the cost of the finished print based on the price per kg. You pay for filament. Most of the parts I print I don't need to do anything to finish or post process. Better printers generally produce better quality surface finish. A lot of it has to do with your print settings but once you have it dialed, results are consistent. Without processing you will have a layered looking finish but depending on your layer height you can still have a part that feels smooth. For example most of the time I print with .2mm layer height and you can only feel the layers with your fingernail, it feels smooth on your finger. If I didn't mind doubling the print time I could easily go to .1mm thickness for better finish. So post processing isn't really an issue if you print it right in the first place. If you print with ABS you can "chemically polish" finished parts with acetone vapor, it does a very good job of smoothing and fusing the layers. Build volume can be an issue. Most consumer printers have a print area of 8" squared or less but bigger machines are available and sometimes for about the same price. The size of the machines is very easilly scalable, but most are aimed at people who want them on a desk at home so thats what everyone sells. If you are creative with sectioning your designs you can print huge parts in small sections at a time. At this moment in time you're not going to be printing a new top end for your bike. Printing a full set of plastics would probably be more trouble than it's worth. However printing smaller pieces like levers or brackets or mounts is great! Want a cool go pro mount? Easy! I even made an electronically stabilised gumball mount that clamped to the forks instead of the number plate. Battery bracket? Spare plug holder? Water bottle mount? Want to mount a phone or GPS to your bars? Sure there are limitations but there are also near endless possibilities if you apply the tech right. Plus they are extremely handy and versatile for other stuff too. I'm fabricating a bumper for a full sized pickup and just printed out some gauges to help place the bends exactly where they need to be. I've printed fixtures and jigs for fabricating and welding. Decorative figures, I did a sectioned jet engine for my dad for his birthday. I've made parts for my house, parts for my bike's, parts for cars and trucks, parts for guns, hell I've even made parts for use inside of an M1A1! I'm a welder/fabricator by trade and have full access to a cnc mill and machine shop but I love using my printer to make stuff.
  8. You can't print an ar15. You can print parts for one, including a lower receiver, which technically by law is the registered firearm itself -- BUT you can't print all of the parts you need to make a functioning firearm on your desktop printer out of plastic filament... those little decoy pistols you keep seeing on the news are basically single shot pop guns where you need to replace the barrel each time. Accuracy, muzzle velocity, lethality are all garbage. It's like saying because you can build a go kart out of cobbled together scrap in your garage and a lawnmower engine that OH MY GOSH he just built a corvette in his garage! Sorry I keep seeing this on the news and as a former gunsmith and current user of 3D printers it "triggers" me every time how factually wrong the stories are every time! Now onto dirtbikes! I actually have several printed parts on mine. From a printed clutch and perch to a 3 axis stabilised gimbal frame I printed for a gopro. As long as you take the defficiencies inherent in 3D printing into account when designing you can build completely functional parts for very cheap. Will a printed clutch lever assembly hold up to the worst wrecks as well as a $150 lever? No, but it costs about a dollar and a few hours to make a new one. Toss a couple extras in your backpack and just in case and call it a day. Not saying it is the BEST solution but it is a decent one. A couple points on that as well. First is, again using the lever assembly I made as an example. That is holding up just fine being made out of basic PLA. A better and more robust material would be ABS, or PETG. Both very common and easy to print with. If you want to get more advanced you could go with nylon based, or carbon infused filament which take a little more advanced printer setup but are very strong. A step up from even that, leaving the realm of desktop home use printers and entering professional use printers like a Markforged now you can use technology like their continuous weave tech. That allows inlaying strands of carbon fiber, fiberglass, or even Kevlar. At one of their demos I held a sample coupon that was about 1"x3" x id say about .1" thick and the guy asked me to try and break it with my bare hands. Needless to say I couldn't, I could barely flex it. If it was aluminum I could have bent it until it tore, if it was steel I could have bent it in half. I think one of their demo pieces was even a motorcycle lever come to think of it... but thats also an $80k machine... There is also what they call sintered metal. Which is a filament with metal suspended in it. After printing they bake it at extreme temperature which fuses the part into a printed metal piece. It can be done stronger than an equivalent cast part. That isn't exactly home desktop technology either but the sales rep said they are working on a service where you print the part and send it to them and they sinter it in their specialty ovens. 3D printing for dirtbikes is very possible and practical as long as you understand the strengths and weaknesses of the process and design accordingly. No I wouldn't print an exhaust pipe... BUT I did print out each cone section to test fit a full 2 stroke YZ250 exhaust that I later cut out of stainless and welded together. You can get a good quality printer for about $800 too.
  9. 762SPR

    How to torque these guys?

    I've always done it like your Pa says, never had a problem so far... If you want to get technical, measure your wrench, do a little math to adjust for the (most likely) shorter wrench, hook a fishing or other pull-type scale on the wrench and pull! They call it foot pounds for a reason, it's how many pounds acting on a foot long lever! Not rocket surgery, just think outside the torque wrench 😉
  10. 762SPR

    What is this? 2017 Yz250x

    Like others have said it's just a little flaw in the casting. Very common, don't worry about it. It may look similar to a Crack because it's kind of sticking up and folded over itself. You could take it to the dealer and if the people behind the desk don't know what they're talking about, you may be able to convince them it's a problem and get it worked out, but you will likely be without a bike for a bit. If it really bothers you, you can lightly sand it down, and it will disappear. I don't know if the cases have any surface treatment, sanding will remove it and it may look different. If you don't believe me, you can tear appart the motor and look on the inside. You won't see anything. But on the off chance that it actually is a Crack, just get some of that new aluminum brazing rod. You can apply it with a propane torch and it supposedly is stronger than the base metal. I've been itching to find a reason to try it out, I just haven't had a cracked case since I learned about it! ... OR you can just ignore it because it isn't a problem.
  11. 762SPR

    Bottom end assembly question

    If it fell into the water passages, you could probably work it down into the water pump, or out the top by moving the motor around upside down. Worse case is to just pull the cylinder... You can get the motor in fully assembled, just takes a little clever rotating.
  12. 762SPR

    X-fun aluminium fuel tank.

    Now THAT's what the hell I'm talking about! Very nice!
  13. 762SPR

    Just Brought YZ250 2007

    Ignition timing, not valve timing Pull the left side (stator) cover where the flywheel is, you'll have to do that for adding the FWW anyway. There is a plate under it that is bolted to the case with the coil that generated power for the spark with the flywheel. Anyway there should be three large JIS (Large phillips... sort of) Loosen those and you can rotate the whole plate to adjust the ignition timing. Usually measured in degrees. Should all be there in the manual Check 3-39. Use that to get to 0, then you can either use a degree wheel or do some math to figure out what changes you need to make. I've never had to change a plug in the field before, but I always carry one with me and appropriate tools when I go way out into the sticks. A lighter can also help a fouled plug too if you're up the creek without a paddle.
  14. 762SPR

    X-fun aluminium fuel tank.

    I stand corrected! Never had one of those fancy shmancy alumin-y-um bikes!
  15. 762SPR

    Home made YZ250 expansion chamber

    You know what? I just looked at the numbers again and I think you're right. Don't know how I missed that, but I sure am glad I have friends to keep me on track!
×