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falk_ben

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About falk_ben

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  1. Hi Guys, Thanks for looking at my project, unfortunately I had a few running in issues burning 700ml oil in a half hour break in run I think I never run it in hard enough or It needed more of a hone. Got my third set of rings coming and a hone, more expense Half my season gone so frustrating Here's what my ride looks like before the next tear down
  2. £2500 later and countless hours my rebuild is done! Thanks to selling my house and Motorsport. com I now have a 292 to break in. Few set backs and re orders for a broken clutch hub (now hinson) and a broken oil scraper ring ( too rough on installation) and the ordering of 30 so oem O-RINGs. I also had to cut my swing arm bolt in four places to get my engine out! The engine is all new apart from the gear set and side covers. Last October my rod locked on the front casing smashing through my balance shaft at 50 mph! Project pics to follow.
  3. hi all I guess nobody has a page from a 2013 oem manual they can share showing the clutch side of the crank. I think the random suspect washers are loose behind the oil pump idler gear on the end of the crank. Should I try yfzcentral forum?
  4. Hello all, After pulling the top end off my nephews quad to find a free crank and piston I dug deeper to find out the initial cause for lock up. Only found the problem when I removed the clutch assembly. I noticed on the right side of the clutch cover hole a burr of metal at the part of the casing where the end of the crank sits. After removing the case it looked like the crank nut had eaten the casing and made a round groove. Initially I thought a bearing must have been there at some point as there was a partial circlip in the molten metal. I have since discovered on a oem parts diagram a seal sits retained by a clip and not a bearing. I obviously need a new casing and seal parts but what Iam concerned with is the bluing in that area. Can someone provide a microfishe of how the end of the crank should be assembled? Behind the crank nut there are two unexplained washers/spacers that are floating behind. The centres of the washers are too big for the shaft and float around, is this normal? could these have caused the damage or the crank nut itself? Any help much appreciated Ben
  5. Hi All, Thinking of buying a 2001 complete bottom end from Germany but was wondering about year model differences? The thing is i have a blown 2013 but can I swap most things over ie cams, stator, clutch? Will a 2001 motor fit in my frame? Not worried about the cylinder as I need a new one! A detailed list would be great Ben.
  6. falk_ben

    Engine suppliers?

    Balance Shaft, Conrod, Crank, R/H Casing, Cylinder, Piston. The engine builder that gas flowed my head in the UK doesnt know a recon specialist in the UK. I was thinking of buying a complete motor. he suggested the USA.
  7. falk_ben

    Engine suppliers?

    Hi all, After a bit of bad news of my Conrod letting go on my 2013 YZ 250 F I am struggling to find a trusted recon engine supplier. I am looking in the UK and US at the moment with no luck. Don't want to risk an Ebay special. Any suggestions most appreciated. What sort of prices am I looking at? I can rebuild for £1700 with parts off motosport.com Ben
  8. Hello all, I have a nephews 450 in my garage with a suspected seizure 10 hours after recent Wrench Rabbit/ Vertex rebuild. According to him it was barely off idle when it all locked up. Tonight we tore it down after checking the timing only to find nothing wrong with the piston, head, cylinder or rod. After all this effort the engine still could be only turned a third of a 360 rotation ccw and cw. I checked the clutch plates and operation was ok. Next he tells me about starting issues and locking like it was in gear, so we took the starter motor off and bingo, the engine freed up. We then test the starter with a battery charger only to find it working ok. Now I'm thinking the problem could be with what ever the starter motor drives, but why is the engine free with the starter removed? Any common problems regarding starters and drive train to the crank? help much appreciated Ben
  9. falk_ben

    Suspected seizure at 50 MPH! 2013 YZ250F

    Probably the worst failure a YZ250F can have! After my investigation I fished out a few pieces. My Conrod did let go smashing up the piston, cylinder, balance shaft, and top of the right hand casing (inside)! Lucky enough my race head survived! Here are some piccys, now having a strong Brandy!
  10. falk_ben

    Suspected seizure at 50 MPH! 2013 YZ250F

    Just tried to turn her and I undid the flywheel nut!
  11. falk_ben

    Suspected seizure at 50 MPH! 2013 YZ250F

    Still locked when clutch pulled
  12. falk_ben

    Suspected seizure at 50 MPH! 2013 YZ250F

    hi, 96.5 RON Lead Replacement Petrol as run out of AVGAS ( 100 octane for racing). Vertex Map #7 (Vertex Best Power 2009) . Run this fuel all the time. I was thinking it could have been my MCCT as was thinking oil pressure problems when the Auto tensioner oil hole is not blocked up? Do you need to do this on a YZ250F? Expensive mistake if so! Picked it up off the road this morning, oil & water levels clean and fine. Just spent £1000 on the girl hopefully its not terminal!
  13. Doomed for the season I think! Riding home from work on my usual stretch of road cruising at 50 and I load up in 5th and clunk and a 50 metre skid later the bike stops, hairy stuff! Glad it never happened on my next race next weekend as there are a couple of doubles to hit! I hope its not a mistake I made during my last rebuild 13 hours ago! Just fitted race head, Gold Series Stage 2 Hotcams and 13.9:1 Vertex Piston. The bike has been starting first kick and jetting seams right with only a couple of pops on a abrupt deceleration and need for choke on start up. I have seized a YZ two stroke before and that came to a gradual stop. This was a clunk and instant lock up. Guess I'll tear down this weekend, if terminal a 290 kit looks likely after a period of saving.
  14. falk_ben

    Hot Cams Stage 2 Gold Series

    Mid to Top Power.
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