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About Octanee

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    British Columbia
  1. thanks again greyracer, time and time your here helping others, keep up the great work and thanks! Greatly appreciated any suggested things to-do to my forks "while their apart"? As in upgrades or such? Otherwise I'll be putting in the new pistons and a complete seal/ bushing set
  2. It's apart of 12,36 in this pic but it doesn't actually have a item number, it's in the middle there between 13,37 and 14,38, thanks http://www.boats.net/images/diagrams/yamaha/MCY/2006/YZ450FV_FSPV/IMAGES/FRONT_FORK.png
  3. Hi guy, so basically my fork seals are done, no big deal but when I changed my 2 recoil? Rebound? Springs at the top of the forks, I noticed they were breaking, there's a bushing on them and it appeared the plastic holding the bushing is too small and so they both broke it away, I went to yamaha and they say they can only sell me the upper valve assembly, I don't need all that crap and it's expensive. Where can I buy some new ones? They are a white plastic kinda piston? Very top of forks when you unscrew the top of fork there. I'm hoping to buy after market if I can thinking it will fix it, Imo I see what I have as a design flawed item. I'm at work so I don't have a pic of what I'm talking about, but I'm hopi g to be pointed in the right direction, thanks!,!
  4. alrighty, so my best bet to start, if i think i need to Richen it up, is to lift my needle inside the carb i take it, and grayracer thanks for the links as always!
  5. ok well im going to assume, that if it needs choke, which = more fuel to start while hot, that it probably needs more fuel as in it runs too lean right now? would that be a good assumption? Thanks!
  6. ok good to know for a base line, the 42 pilot or a 40, is lower number = richer or leaner? and needle position, down deeper in hole = leaner and higher = richer correct?
  7. hi guys, got a 426 here and basically cold it will fire up pretty darn good, i just rebuilt the sucker, high comp piston, i think its 13.5:1, replaced all valves, did auto decomp mod it idles and runs strong, however when you let off the gas, it does not pop at all, my 06 yz450f pops.... also this bike has a twinair filter, so basically heres my problem, the big one, when its hot and you want to start it.... good luck, hot start does not help, you know what does? CHOKE! if i put the choke on then the sucker starts right up... so thats not right, now is it? my 06 450 i dont need hot start or choke i can just give er a kick and she fires up, so i'd say my 450 is properly jetted, so i havent had to touch my carb, and so i dont know how to adjust these carbs on these bikes and how i should go about it? so what would you guys recommend me to touch on the carb first? since it wont start hot unless you use choke to get it going and it does not backfire at all when downshifting, must mean its really rich? or more like lean possibly?, Thanks!
  8. Octanee

    loose header after ride

    yep your going to have to use loctite, you wont need the red stuff, just the blue my 450 and 426 seem fine with out it, but i had my snowmobile that the whole Y pipe fell off,! rattled all 8 bolts out, but some loctite and it was good after that and still is
  9. i got it all in, i forgot about the intake cam first then count 14 pins, thanks again grey!
  10. hi guys, so basically, i found out on this 426 i got the exhaust bearing to the cam was fried, i went to pick it up by the bearing and wth all this slop! so it was time to go auto decomp... local dealer had some cams, so i sent my friend down, NOW from reading, im told 03-05 Yz450f exhaust cam.... correct? what about Wr's? i ask this because basically the guy told my friend (and its his dbike) that, that cam should work.... i notice size wize its a bit smaller i think on how big the gear is, like top of both gears is no longer nice and paralell but a slight grade uphill from exhaust to intake cam.... so should i run this cam? the Timing chain doesnt want to really sit that well into the teeth on that cam, its a new wiseco timing chain i had bought, but the stock intake it fits alright on.... so, basically the guy at the yami here that sold it said it would work, he said it was off a "yz450f" but didnt say what year... (could it actually be a wr cam?) . Anybody got any ideas? should i run this? the chain DOES bite into the teeth a bit, that i could see it working fine, but im just trying to make sure before i go ahead and do all of this up.... and find out it skips a tooth magically or w/e, THANKS!!!
  11. not sure, looking now, a head is yeah like 900 on ebay,i co uld of sworn back when i had engine troubles that a head was about 550 or so with valves, but could be wrong, and probably am as i am seeing
  12. i'd say your best to buy a whole new head with valves and all that for about 500$, the damage to that head could be fix'd probably but the cost is probably going to be around the same anyhow between the machining and welding to or what ever to fill in all that dents and stuff, and valve seats... etc, just my opinion on that though!
  13. Octanee

    2008 YZ450f Oil Change

    well, i would go by dip stick my self over the book, BUT how you check the oil is start the bike up, get it nice and warmed up, either ride it a bit or let idle for a minute or 2 until cylinders feel well off warm and possibly your case, from oil flowing. Now let sit for 3-5 mins or so, THEN check your oil on a relatively flat spot with bike nice and upright of course, i personally fill my oil up to not screwed in, but dip the stick down to the threads and check it at that, after all "dip stick" not thread stick?, i dont know, but my bikes still rocking, So try that and see what happens, i believe the bike also has a oil pressure bolt or something? ( its been all winter) so i forget on mine, but im pretty damn sure theres a bolt you crack open to make sure its got oil flowing also...., but try that method and let me know if it helps any
  14. 30 hrs on the chain and you want to replace it?, my 450 ive got probably over 100 hrs past 2 years of riding, and im debating whether to touch it this year, and if i do, its to put a high comp piston in, but in theory, it does sound like could be a dropped valve, if it broke off while running chances are you head will have a real nice dent into it , also why it stops at the bottom could be, because if that valve dropped or broke off from the stem, either way i look at this i would forsee your valve springs rising up and coming out of place up on your head so it could be jamming up your cam in there, so stopping at the bottom, but its all theories until you get that sucker opened, all you gotta do is pull your gas tank off and pop off the top cap to the cams and you should see whats going on possibly, wouldnt take too long?
  15. Octanee

    New piston/rings dry break-in or not?

    i find it so funny that they try to give some bs about synthetic, trying to say its another oil, or like "once you go synthetic you cant go back" i've heard that alot, then you find semi synthetic mixes all over, they do mix.. and in truth are not so different on a lubrication scale just synthetic lasts longer the oil is, well oil.... but synthetic is better in the sense its man made, it dont break down as easy as mineral oil does, it lasts longer and keeps its viscocity much better, all around synthetic takes alot more abuse then mineral will always pre-lube the parts, as said they dont get oil right away and will be dry for a while, and as far as rings seating... 0 issues here between 6 dirtbikes, 4 snowmobiles, and rebuilds total probably 16-18, (preventative maintenance of course)