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harescrambler_3709

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About harescrambler_3709

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Virginia
  • Interests
    DIY, Speaker Building
  1. harescrambler_3709

    2004 CR250R Won't Start

    Good call on going back to the spark. Coil/plug wire assembly appears to be bad. Got one on order from RMATV
  2. harescrambler_3709

    2004 CR250R Won't Start

    My bike is killing me. Bought bike barely used, rode it for a year, Son got really sick in the hospital for 7-1/2 weeks last summer so bike was in storage for a year. Mixed new gas and it started up second kick and then revved up to a very high idle so I had to kill it by putting it in gear and letting the clutch out with the brakes on. I figured it was a carb problem after sitting for so long so I pulled off the stock Mikuni TMX 38 10A (it has stock jetting except the Pilot, 40 Pilot Jet/420 Main Jet/Stock Needle on 2nd clip). I disassembled the carb and soaked the body in Berryman's Carb Dip Solvent overnight, washed it out in the deep sink and blew out all the passages with compressed air. I cleaned and re-oiled the air filter. Validated that I have flow out of the fuel tank to carb. I reassembled the carb, replacing the Viton needle and seat, float bowl oring seal, pilot jet 32.5(new), and main jet 420(new), Air/Fuel screw 1-1/2 turns out. Bike wouldn't start at any A/F screw setting. Pulled the plug, it had a BR8ES in it that looked, as expected, based the on richer jetting it was pretty black. Replaced with a new BR8EIX. Pulled out my handy-dandy spark tester and it had a big fat blue spark. The motor has very few hours on it and has plenty of compression. Still won't start. Inspected the Vforce V3 reed valve block. No reeds chipped. I figured maybe the high idle and rich jetting on the Pilot Jet may be due to a leaking left side crank seal so I replaced the crank seal and went to the stock 32.5 Pilot Jet. Still won't start. I shot ether in the airbox. Still won't start. I am at a bit of a loss right now. Here is what I am gonna do this weekend ANY ADDITIONAL IDEAS WILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED! Check Float level on Carb Change out the reeds Replace clutch/water pump side crank seal Clean fuel tank valve screen Replace fuel tank breather hose Compression check Thanks in advance for any help you folks can provide. Never been so stuck before.
  3. harescrambler_3709

    2012 infos available yet?

    Anybody know what the difference is between the Separate Function Fork and the Twin Chamber?
  4. harescrambler_3709

    2012 infos available yet?

    What's an SFF Showa Fork? Is it different than a Showa Twin Chamber Fork and if so how does it work?
  5. harescrambler_3709

    2011 Pictures of new kickstand installed! It worksss!!!

    I have been a proponent of the school of, "If it doesn't make it go faster, stop better or turn quicker get it off or don't put it on!" since my roadracing days. That was up until my two kids and my wife started riding with me. Kickstands Kick BUTT. My buddy lifted his CRF450R Behemouth onto his mx Stand the other day and I said, "Hey Randy watch this" as I flipped down my kickstand and laughed at him. Loving the kickstand!
  6. harescrambler_3709

    2010 Head Porting

    You could clean up the casting flash with a small file if you are scared to get in there with a rotary tool(I was too scared to do that). I cleaned all the carbon out of the exhaust side. Doesn't sound like mine was as built up as yours(probably need ECU mapped as you said) and cleaned up the casting flash a little bit. Probably didn't do much, but made me feel better.
  7. harescrambler_3709

    Replacing Engine Parts...

    I have a 2007 RMZ250. 1) I have found that if my valves are even a little out of spec(I run 0.008" Exhaust and 0.004" Intake) that my bike doesn't start very well. 2)3)4) I am going to send my head to Eric Gorr at http://www.eric-gorr.com/fixing4strokes.html and have him rebuild my head for about $500 with steel valves. That site answers most of your questions better than I could. Believe it or not that is a good price for the work. I looked into buying the parts and doing it myself and I can't hardly buy them for what he charges. 5) After compression lowers replace you pistons and possibly valve guides 6) I will buy the Tusk tools to split cases and pull/install crankshaft when necessary: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do;jsessionid=F43EA8D45F82EEAF676609C35C97194D?navType=type&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webTypeId=140&webCatId=22&stockId=143201&prodFamilyId=17167 http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=140&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=17166 7) The stock clutch basket is a piece of dung. Mine wore out fairly quickly because it is unanodized aluminum. I replaced it with a Barnett basket that is anodized aluminum with stainless steel fingers riveted in. I have an Athena 290cc kit, ported head, Hotcams. With that healthy a motor the Barnett clutch basket has taken the abuse and stood up to it. Highly recommended. Good luck.
  8. harescrambler_3709

    Compatibility of wheels ?

    Rear wheel is definitely different. An RMZ250 runs a 100/90-19 while an RMZ450 runs a 110/90-19(a much wider tire). The front may be the same though.
  9. harescrambler_3709

    looking into a new bike

    Recommend a used 2005-2007 Honda CR125. They are a hoot to ride. They are full size wheels 21/19. They have Showa Twin Chamber forks(that can be revalved with Race Tech Gold valves easily for your weight and ability for about $150 if you do it yourself). They are a Honda so parts are plentiful and cheaper than the other makes. Way lighter than an RMZ250. Alright Alright that is not the question you asked. The 2006 RMZ250 had the older style RMZ/KXF motor that tends to eat valves(check valve clearances before you buy it). If do buy it have Eric Gorr on speed dial because those heads tend not to stay together. On the 2006 you can change the oil filter without having to change the coolant so that is good compared to the 04-05. I am not sure if they put a better water pump on the 2006 and if they didn't I would put a boyesen supercooler on it. The forks are old school Kayaba if I remember right(not a twin chamber design). I don't care for those forks as much. The 2007 and up use Showa Twin Chambers that I am more comfortable on. Once those things are fixed it should be okay. I have a 2007 and a buddy of mine used to have a 2006. The 2007 is much better than the 2006.
  10. harescrambler_3709

    Knocking Noise..Possible cause? please listen

    I just had my cam chain on my 2007 get too stretched out and my bike actually slipped on the teeth of the crankshaft causing the bike to run bad and make that same tapping sound as yours. I ended up immediately hitting the kill switch so nothing further untoward happened. I would pull your rocker cover and put your finger under the cam chain between the cam and test the tension. You will be able to immediately tell if you cam chain/tensioner is bad or not. Mine also took out this little stamped metal deal that keeps the cam chain on the crankshaft gear. It is only a $4 part, but will make the chain be able to slip off the gear enough to run badly.
  11. harescrambler_3709

    2008 rmz 250...... 13-51 gearing??

    If you want to figure out your gear ratio here is how you do it: Divide your rear gear by your front gear(i.e.51/13) to get your ratio: 3.92 Stock gearing on my 2007 was 12/48 or 4.00 ratio Most magazine testing recommends 13/50 or 3.84 The lower the number the more acceleration, but the lower the top speed and you will go through a gear and have to shift sooner The higher the number the less acceleration, but the higher the top speed and the longer it will take to have to shift between gears. The 12 front sprocket will probably make the chain wear out faster too since it has to turn such a tight loop. I would stick with a 13 front and vary the back to suit your terrain. When I was up in the Northeast racing hare scrambles I ran 13/50 and lived mostly in 2nd or 3rd gear a lot of the time. I am in Virginia now and there are a lot of fast 5th gear areas so I am going to try a 13/49 this time when I replace the chain. Gear ratios are one of the best, easiest, and cheapest tuning methods out there.
  12. harescrambler_3709

    2007 RMZ 250 cracked case!!!

    As an aside Suzuki has updated the cases a couple of times. The new cases have webbing added to strengthen the case. Make sure if you do rebuild you bike you get the new cases. Look at part numbers for 2007/2008/2009 and get the latest cases you can find.
  13. harescrambler_3709

    2007 RMZ 250 cracked case!!!

    Just had this problem after rebuilding my 2007 RMZ250. The problem is definitely in the automatic decompressor on your exhaust cam. It is supposed to hold the Left exhaust valve open when you initially kick the bike from the piston being in the top dead center position. If it doesn't hold the valve open you will be compression locked at just prior to top dead center. Guys typically kick the bejesus out of their bikes at this point and crack the cases because they were never designed to be kicked this hard. That is why Suzuki won't make this claim good. The decompressor has a very light spring attached that as the piston drives down the cylinder it shuts the exhaust valve(due to centrifugal force on the decompressor from the cam spinning). This in turn allows the piston on its upstroke to build compression properly(which it couldn't do if the valve was still open). The problem with your bikes is one of two things. If your left exhaust valve clearance is excessively large(I set mine at 0.008 of an inch plus or minus 0.001 of an inch) the decompressor cannot make enough contact with the top of the valve stem to actually partially open it. The other issue that may be the case is that the decompressor spring has an issue. It can have a couple of different issues: 1) Spring is broken-this stinks because you can't buy a new one that I know of and have to buy a $288 exhaust cam from Suzuki(Hotcams and other aftermarket cams DO NOT come with the decompressor or spring) 2) Decompressor has some grit in it-remove it by pulling the allen head the holds it in place, clean it, lube the area where the decompressor contacts the cam gear face with a SMALL amount of moly paste or bearing grease, reinstall, ensure you either take a digital picture of how the spring attaches or take a real good look before pulling the allen. It took me a minute to put mine back on. I would pull my rocker cover(I know there are no rockers on most mx bikes) and see if the decompressor operated smoothly with my finger. Mine hung up with some crud in it after my stock(man they are crap) clutch basket lunched itself. If it operates smoothly(mine sometimes operated smoothly and other times not so it might be worth taking apart anyway and cleaning/lubricating) I would check valve clearances(you are in there anyway and it makes the bike start SOOO much better with spot on valve clearances on this model bike). Good luck. -An intelligent man learns from his own mistakes, a wise man learns from other's mistakes.
  14. harescrambler_3709

    Crank gear or Cam Chain Tensioner Problem?

    Broke the bike in for two hours, changed oil and then got after it. In technical terms, it runs like a striped ape now. I was swapping back and forth between my buddy's CRF450 and my now RMZ290 with mildly ported head and Hotcams and we both noted that when full throttle on my RMZ290 it the pretty much the exact spot on the CRF450 throttle that you have to stop at before full throttle so you don't feed it too much. We are both B-class Hare Scramble racers so if you are faster or do western desert stuff this may not apply, but for eastern woods racing I think this is a wonderful combination. The Race Tech gold valve in the front end with 0.46kg/mm springs in this bike made me reach for a sixth gear(that of course didn't exist) in the whoops. Swapping back to the CRF450 and following my buddy through the same whoops I felt the shock of each whoop at the same speed. I think we will be revalving his bike soon. Anyhow no cam chain slippage. My recommendation is to pull the flywheel and check this stamped steel piece every time you change the cam chain which is a high wear item.
  15. harescrambler_3709

    Crank gear or Cam Chain Tensioner Problem?

    Got new cam chain retainer part in and installed it tonight. I think I found my smoking gun. After installing the part I could tell that the new part definitely holds the cam chain on the crankshaft gear much tighter than the old chewed up one. I am going riding tomorrow to see if I have the same problems of slipping cam chain causing timing to go out of whack. I'll let you guys know if it is fixed.
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