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Eric Schrader

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About Eric Schrader

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Dirtbikes
  1. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    2007 Honda CRF 450-R which is set up for desert racing (Track/desert) complete with quick fuel dry break gas tank, extra 4 gallon dump can and stand and a complete extra front wheel. The racing quick fuel system alone costs $1,000 new on this bike and takes 91 octane pump gas. The bike has an 18" rear tire with a heavy duty setup (see description for details). The bike rips across the desert and has a Tokyo mods carb mod with the 10x ignition mapping (currently set to a handlebar switch for smooth power and max power). Gas tank is a 3.2 gallon IMS dry break tank. V4 steering stabilizer included. Suspension is set up for 6'4" 175lb rider with a tall seat configuration, but the stock seat is included as well. Zero oil leaks and well maintained using a preventative maintenance method with the best new parts each time. Receipts for all items can be provided. About 20 hours on the rebuilt head, Carb just rebuilt, bike is prepped and ready for the season. Starts in 1-2 kicks always. 100% reliable bike as long as you turn the gas on. Current CA Red sticker registration r with spark arrestor and original title. 2nd owner. Watch video of bike running here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YI9eEAB-sMg

    $3,300.00

  2. If I have a bunch of 10w40 from Honda, should I just use that on both sides? I used that last time and it works.
  3. Talked to a brake guy at last weekends race. He said it might be that the stock lines are not working properly. When I mentioned SS lines, he said they are super sensitive compared to the OEM plastic ones and it takes some getting use to. When trees hit my front brake lever, I like the fact my wheels dont instantly lock and shoot me over the bars, but I also like the idea of less effort to brake.
  4. Hi guys, I noticed on hard braking bumps my brake pedal when constantly held down bumps down lower and lower, until there's almost no more solid power to it. I haven't had them fade out on me, but its not a good feeling for the pedal to go down lower and lower under pressure. Running EBS 600 rear brake fluid and changed it about 10 rides/races ago. Rear pads are new. Rotor is factory and has not been replaced. Front brakes are decent, they sometimes chirp down rocks but are decent now that I got a new front tire. Any thoughts on what makes the rear pedal go lower and lower over braking bumps when constantly holding it? Air? bad disk? technique?
  5. My bike has that same problem, when coming up to a stop sign with the clutch in from 3/4 speed/rpm in a gear it will go crazy higher and higher and I have to engine brake the RPMs down lower to mid or low RPMs so they can idle normal. Heres a video of it in low/mid throttle idling. You can hear a bit of a ping ping but it did it WAY worse at speed. 1971 Yamaha RT1B, 1973 barrel, webco head, bassani exhaust. Carb is bored out and a jet size similar to a YZ 500.
  6. When I went down to San Felipe 2012 for the SF 250, I used the New York chain and Xena disk brake lock. Chained my back tire to by buddies on our CRF 450s and put the disk lock on my front tire. That thing is LOUD! It chirps when you try to unlock it, so being at a hotel at 6am and unlocking it might not make you friends, but it keeps your bike there. Hotel at the SF marina also had security. Just left the bikes in the parking lot in Mexico. Good point about finding something stationary to chain it to. Next time I will run a cable to my truck or a steel rail
  7. I put it back together with the OEM timing chain and tensioner. It wouldn't start at first, but I bump started it down a hill. Started on its own for the next morning about 10+ times in about 4 hours. Then I kicked it and hit the kill switch (30 seconds before the race started) and it died- kinda of a panic kick and stall last minute to warm it up. Maybe I freaked out and kicked it funny. Wouldn't start after that and DNS the race. That's what I get for being cheep. Ended up spending $150 to get down to the race, sign up and gas. Learned a lesson. Don't be cheep. Need to take it apart but it sounded not so good when it stalled, like a cat dying. I think the timing chain slipped a tooth. I half cleaned the carb (couldn't get the Philips float bowl screws out) so maybe that was it too, but I am pretty sure it was the chain that slipped.
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    Webco head 1974 Head with read cage Lowered rear end shocks Front Conical hub off a 1974 RT 400 "H" Style rims To Do: Add Bossani pipe/ rejet charb (my dad saids its already loud enough) Get it running smoother Convert lighting from 6v to 12v system
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    Gave it to my bro, still fun to ride
    Gave it to my bro, still fun to ride
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    Green sticker Air cooled Tough as nails
    Green sticker Air cooled Tough as nails
  11. 0 comments

    Luggage rack Pirelli MT 21 Rallycross Tires
    Luggage rack Pirelli MT 21 Rallycross Tires
  12. 0 comments

    RIP Bobbles, 1. I bought the RT-1B new from Hollywood Yamaha in April, 1971 for list price ($925) 2. Modifications 3. Front hub is early YZ 4. Front forks have Terrykit dampening units, about 8” travel 5. The slider tubes are turned down to 1.750 diameter, I left two ears on for the attachment points for the fork brace 6. Front fender is a Yamaha part made for the 1985 TT600 7. Rear suspension is Works Performance gas emulsion shocks, about 7.5” wheel travel 8. I made the Aluminum (6061T6) swingarm, kickstand and brake tension bar 9. (I’m a machinist and did the work) 10. Preston Petty IT rear fender 11. Malcolm Smith 3.8 gal gas tank 12. Webco head 13. 1973 reed valve barrel 14. Bassani pipe with Skyway spark arrester 15. 32mm carburetor bored to 33.5 mm 16. Boost bottle (Yamaha started using them on their 1985 YZ490 and called it Y.E.I.S.) 17. I have two ignition coils, (one to each sparkplug) that are wired to a switch that controls which one fires 18. 12 volt halogen headlight 19. All the above mods were done over 20 years ago so they have stood the test of time 20. One mod that did not last was a set of straight cut gears. The large gear, attached to the clutch, wore out after about 10 years of use 21. Bottom line to the changes I have made; keep it street legal, reduce the bike’s weight and increase performance