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About Bigpiggy

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  1. Gmoss is right on.. i ran the wal mart 2 stroke **** in my 01 GasGas trials bike and the top end fell apart after a year.. i was 15 years old though and didn't know any better... and ya look around for a bulk buy of it, i bought a case of (24)16 ounce bottles of Yamalube and saved a bunch.. the initial investment is stiff but you save.. i paid under $200 bucks for 3500 miles worth of oil... heres a good example off ebay. better deal than what i got lol
  2. Check your intake boot.. if theres a crack and airs leaking in that could be the cause.. just replaced mine. They get dry and crack over time
  3. Id sell the bike 'as is' for like $500 bucks.. since like someone said before itll be about $1000 youll have to put into it.. you can pick up a 1999-2001 model 250,300 even a 380 for about $1500..
  4. I wouldn't do it.. your not making it much simpler if at all, cables break and strand you just as easy as a hydraulic line.. just check for leaks occasionally and change the fluid and hydraulics are VERY reliable..
  5. i didn't realize bajaja made 11,000 bikes out of the 80,000 Ktm's sold in 2011! Thats nuts.. As long as that share holding of 47% stays at that and doesn't climb to %51 everything will be ok.. KTM won't let it happen.. and hey, what if a chinese company like moto guzzi or roketa started buying KTM shares.. id shit myself then!
  6. Heres NADA's price... Im thinking $3500 is better sounding after all lol
  7. says high retail is $3700.... With the parts he has on say 50% of the value of the parts added on.. so what? like $300 + $3700 = $4000 HIGH RETAIL.... Id offer him $3500.. Go as high as $3700? idk use judgement.. i wouldn't go much higher though. Condition is hard to tell from the one pic but as it looks and how he says it runs its a fair offer
  8. undo the clamps on both sides of the carb, then loosen (not remove) the top 2 subframe bolts and (remove) the bottom 2 bolts of the rear subframe to get some space to get the carb out.. o and unscrew the throttle cable housing from the top.. Taking apart the carb is easy.. theres 4 screws to split the carb in two halves.. be careful with the rubber gasket when you pull it apart. When you see the insides you'll see the floats, main jet, pilot jet etc.. remove the jets and take the floats out VERY CAREFULLY and don't lose any of the small parts.. take out the idle screw, fuel/air screw w/springs .. Get some carb cleaner and spray out every crevice and hole (you should be able to see through the jets.. if not their still clogged) Get the thing super clean inside and out. When you screw the carb back together make sure the rubber gaskets have a clean smooth surface to seat on. O and when you put the air/fuel screw back in the standard setting should be something like (1-1/2 to 2 turns out from fully seated).. the idle is close to that as well. I typed this really fast good luck! O and DONT overtighten anything anything in or outside of the carb.. its easy to strip anything to do with the carb, just snug everything thats it
  9. tear the carb down and clean it out.. it can be done in 30 minutes
  10. Clean the tank out, check the fuel line for any kinks,.take the carb apart and clean the thing real good inside and out AGAIN.. some peoples idea of cleaning the carb out is spraying it out with it still apart.. check the float needle is in its seat and nothings propping it open (that would cause it to leak out the overflow)
  11. Sounds to me the bikes getting unwanted air from somewhere.. Did you check your intake boot? Tight around the clamps? Condition of the boot ok? how does your needle look? maybe it was wedged open when it wouldn't idle down?
  12. If it bogs only in the bumps Im willing to bet you have a loose ground or other electrical problem.. I had a similar problem after I got my bike back together after a full tear down. One of my grounds didnt have good contact with the frame and ran like crap and eventually shut off.. Tear the bike down and check all your electrical connections and sand your grounds making sure they have good contact with the frame(bare metal to metal).. If it was a water issue I think it would run like crap everywhere.. not just in the bumps...
  13. o yes i forgot the rear fender.. you can buy the plastics new off any motorcycle parts website.. i just looked on ebay and theres tons of subframes for sale. ebay's where its at.. be sure to 'make an offer' on items on there before you bid on the full price
  14. the subframe i got from the 06 bolted right up (airbox, panels and all).. the pipe and silencer however are off the 01 bike and that bolted right up to the new subframe. The only thing about the 2001 silencer is it has (2) bolt locations to secure it to the subframe. The 2006 just has the (1) on the front of the silencer. (1) is all you really all you need anyway (very secure).. The tall seat i got brand new for the 06 and don't forget the tank.. you could try it but I don't think the seat will hook onto the 01's tank.. But try it first.. i can't remember if it did.. Don't forget if you do end up getting an 06 tank youll need shrouds to go along .. any other questions id be glad to answer
  15. What your asking is pretty similar to what I did to my bike.. It started off a 2001 300 MXC.. I got a blown up 2006 125 sx which i stripped down and "fused" with this bike.. The main frame, engine, swingarm and rear wheel are the ONLY things that are left from the 2001.. EVERYTHING else is the 06.. front/rear fenders, rear subframe, seat, forks, front wheel etc.. I don't know about the panels bolting onto your bike without you getting an 04(or whatever year) subframe. ebays got the stuff goodluck