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About gabe324

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Rhode Island
  1. i have a 2004 cr250 and i recently had a place put a new bottom end in my bike . i got the whole motor back together and it started right up. i go to take it for a spin and it didnt want to shift right. it will shift but it take a little muscle with ur foot and some finicking with the shifter. its shifting very very notchy like its not meshing with the gears right. i can find neutral no prob and it goes through all five gears but just isnt right. any ideas? they said they would fix it for me by the way i just want some insight for the future or if this becomes a problem ive NEVER had this happen on my bike before the rebuild and i also changed the crank due to wear and not from blowing it up. help please
  2. aright im def goin oem i have the cheapest site for honda oem parts. stock pistons are 60 bucks lol its hondapartsline.com love this site. thanks for the info anyone have a cylinder for a 02-04 cr250 for sale???
  3. i was wondering if all the bad reviews of the wiseco cranks that im reading about are true. i mainly only see everyone having problems in 92-01 cr's. should i just go oem? i can get an oem crank for 200 and a full seal kit for 70 or the wiseco for 150 with seals as well???
  4. i got it checked by two machine shops and its perfectly in spec. i had it replated at u.s. chrome a while back because i had seized a piston in there and the exhaust bridge took some of the hit and cracked so u.s. chrome fixed it and plated it its also relieved about 3 thousanths to allow for expansion. it scares me if someone fixed it though because if they welded it, then it would definitely compromise the metals ability to expand because of i guess for lack of a better word it being " heat treated" by the welder. there is a slight slight indentation in the cylinder like the rings heated up at one point and sat at BDC and put an indentation in the cylinder almost around the whole circumference of. it doesnt catch my fingernail but i can definitely feel it. u.s. chrome sent it back to me like that and plated over it. im trusting them because they should know what they are doin and everyone says theyre the best but im second guessing that now... im gonna pay the 20 bucks to talk to eric gorr and see what he has to say. who thinks i should start a new thread of a complete rebuild bottom and top for a 2004 cr250 with pictures?????????????
  5. holy sh*t i just took the bike apart and the cylinder looks good, the piston rings are almost completely worn through on the exhaust side ( this is an ongoing problem i have) the piston looks ok but def has some dirt score marks on it and the connecting rod has no play up and down but side to side it has just over 1/4 inch of play at the top side to side wayyyy too much in my opinion it just doesnt feel right plus the motor is awful clanky so i would guess thats the sound. also had a good amount of oil in the bottom of the case which confirms my crankcase seal is probably no good. definately wasnt two stroke oil. i ordered a complete wiseco bottom end kit with seals and gaskets for 150! and a namura piston with gaskets for 90!! full rebuild 240 holy geez cheap. any insight on this whole disaster? i hope this fixes my problems
  6. actually just found a leak at the powervalve rod seal. gonna order a new one of those and do another leak down. thinking about just replacing both crank seals almost thinking about replacing rod, bearings, top end and seals just to be safe. lotsa money though. maybe get the keihn pwk carb also. sound like a good idea?
  7. did a leak down test and it dropped one psi from 8 to 7 in about 5 mins so im gonna say the motor is tight. also i found that the air box had a leak after the air filter and was letting tons of dirt in my motor. not big pieces but particles. it plugged up the pilot jet screen and my top end barely has compression. i would guess its because the rings basically sanded themselves down and lost compression? any insight on all this anyone?
  8. im gonna do a leak down test and see what i come up with. eric gorr suggests that its right side crank case crank seal. he says the oil in the bottom end leaks into the cylinder and ionizes the clutch debris in the oil and sticks to the bridge and cause jetting issues. but regardless im gonna to a leak down test and ill post up whats going on thank you your post was very helpful
  9. got the cylinder replated and checked by a machine shop and its true and right in spec my buddy is running the same on his 06 cr250 for jetting and his runs mint as well as mine but doesnt feel snappy at all and also when i do plug chops it seems fine i know the low end power blows on my year bike so thats expected but i seriously just wanna know why everyones jetting is seriously wayyyyy smaller im at about 200 ft above sea level 60-80 degrees. i just wanna know if the jetting correlates to my top end eating issues maybe ill just rebuild it from the crank up inculding seals or just get a 01 motor
  10. alright well i have a 2004 cr250 with a pc pipe and silencer. the issues i have are that i keep going through top ends on it. the exhaust bridge keeps wearing a goove into the piston rings and creates blow by within 12 hours or so and im about a B level rider on an mx track. so my dilema is it runs good but the jetting is 470 main, 42.5 pilot and 1.75 turns out on air fuel and 3rd clip position. i ordered the james dean kit and they recommend 410 main, 32.5 pilot, 1.5 turns and their needle on 3rd clip. its wayyyyyyy to lean with lots of pinging and detonation. i thought they were awesome at jetting? well i have never heard of anyone having jets this big on my bike everyone runs like a 390 main and 28.5 pilot ive looked everywhere online. whats wrong with my bike i cant keep top ends in it? do i have a right side crankcase leak?? thats what eric gorr suggests help me pleaaaseeee ill give 500 bucks to the winner lol