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About kmteknz

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    New Zealand
  1. The best way i found to check the air valve on the side of the carby is to hold it over a torch in a dark area. Light shines thru the holes. CB900f s are prone to backfire on the over-run and it is these valves. i replaced a set and found that these were the same as my 400, hence i know the issues. i have three mates with xr400 s here in NZ and they are now using the "tip to right hand side til a pool of fuel on ground" method for cold starting. IT works for me every time and I havent had the inclination to mess about with pilot jets!! cheers from New Zealand
  2. try 15711 kn1 670 its #5 on the frame fische on the 85 xr350 parts diagram hope this helps stu
  3. Anyone here in New zealand wants a choke plate, please pm me i got 6 laser cut working from the original as a pattern. Seems to work ok but personnally i find laying the bike to the right until a pool of fuel on the ground the best way to start from stone cold. let me know cheers stu
  4. This has been covered in a previous posting. if you have a MD30 chassis 250L, what i found that its not the carb or the pipe BUT the low compression piston and the MILD cam. Best advice is to change these. in one of my previous postings i added all the genuine part numbers. I fitted genuine parts as these were relatively reasonably priced The MD30 cam is VERY mild in the timing and they have a a lower compression (9.5 against 10.3 i believe) piston. i left the standard carb with the dual cv/direct slide mechanism and the standard pipe which was reasonably quiet. i did this on my one here in NZ and it gave me an electric start 250. great fun hope this helps Stu
  5. Are they backfire holes in the XRs plate or are they there so that there is some air to mix with the fuel to allow it to burn?
  6. Some years ago i got a speedo drive bung for an Xl 250 motorsport. Part number was 44835 329 810 which now supercedes to 44835 365 670. This neat plug is shaped like the end of a sppedo cable and when you remove the cable, it plugs and seals up the hole. david silver, cmsnl, partzilla all say nla( no longer available) if anyone finds one, grab it as it stops the gunge getting into the drive. will post pics if needed cheers stu
  7. Dont let the gas out. it is filled with nitrogen at a specified pressure. The reason nitrogen is used is that it is an inert gas which does not change its volume/pressure under heat and keeps the oil under pressure in the shock body. it also has a bigger molecule size that prevents it from permeating/leaking/seeping thru the pores of the rubber and maintains the pressure over a greater time frame. Nitrogen is used in race car tyres for this reason as it is stable and the pressures dont change as the tyres warm up. my local shop has a device on their bottle filler that allows them to close the valve with out losing pressure because the volume in the bladder is so small even a slight "blowout" when removing the valve affects the pressure in the shock. You could/can use air but the pressures are far higher than most compressors at 142psi recommended from honda and over time it will leak thru into the oil and cause the shock oil to cavitate /froth thru the valve assembly. Its not the moisture in the air that causes the problem as water molecules cant get thru the bladder rubber bellows and in that area there is nothing but rubber and the alloy outer shock reservoir body! hope this helps stu
  8. I sell bearings for a job. what you want to find are specifically NSK "DDU" bearings in the sizes you mention. these have double lipped full contact seals and dont let water or rubbish in. i have them in my xr4 and my trx400ex in the rear axle. they are far better quality than the kits i get here and last longer. some "experts" say the seal drag slows the bike down but i have never noticed it. check this link out cheers stu
  9. where are you in nz. i am in dunedin stu
  10. make sure the caliper is free to slide on its mounting pins. NO amount of mods will fix it if the caliper wont slide on these pins. I regularly remove caliper and clean these holes out and relube. This done and good pads fitted seems to keeps my front brake working fine
  11. i have had experience with honda parts since 1977. there is nothing that i have seen that says this bike has a 17mm axle and this one has a 20mm axle. the only way is to work backwards from the bearing sizes from the parts books. a 6305 bearing should have a 25mm id (5x5mm) and a 6304 a 20mm axle hole. work out what bearings are fitted to what wheel and search the bearing sites such as fag, ntn, nsk for the inner dimensions to match up to your axles. as to lengths, trial and error i am afraid cheers stu
  12. how did you go with this? you said you set sag correctly. can you let us know what the correct measurement is. thanks stu
  13. hows this working out? from your last postings it appears that the vents were the problem and it may have fouled a plug. i found mine was hard to start when hot and it had been fine for some time. turned out the inlet valves were receding into the head the same as crf s do! new inlets with a seat job and it was perfect. i am a believer in the vent hoses as have seen numerous bikes stop in water around footpeg depth and trying to idle their way through the creek. run them up under the tank, one mate even puts his into a cheap conical fuel filter (2of) to stop any water or dust etc. i just push mine into a lump of old air filter and that stops rubbish getting into the carb body cheers stu
  14. the auto decomp is on the cam, check out the parts pictures that you got your posted ones from. the electric start md30 i had did have this feature.