BurnCycle

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About BurnCycle

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nevada
  • Interests
    Motorcycles,guitars,my wife. Not in any particular order! But my wife is number one in my life. Sometimes I get to do other things... ;)

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  1. Dude. 14/38 is just dumb. Go with OEM SM standard of 15/41 along with a good to best new chain and be done with it for a few thousand miles. At the very least a 15 in front. You want a little more bottom end go 15/44. Going to extremes on the SM with the sprocket ratios the way you ride makes no sense. IMHO
  2. Back at ya ! Of course to all the members...May God bless you all...Peace and good will be with you.
  3. It is very hard for any small displacement thumper to be an adventure bike. Just to hard and heavy on a small engine like that to travel long distances at freeway speeds. Even with tall gearing because a loaded up ADV bike will need more HP to haul the load. I think they need to go bigger in displacement and more cylinders added like the Honda Africa Twin. Of course it means more weight to the platform for a start. There is a line in the sand that is hard to cross between small and off road handling and the need to be able stay safe on a freeway. Where does one draw this line? There is a place for the DR-Z and even smaller displacement bike like the 390. For sure it is not on long ADV rides. Yes they can do it but for how long? What will be the cost each time the engine gets toasted from the strain. I have the bent to use my DR-Z as an ADV bike but, I know it will be in a very limited capacity and range. A slower back country ride to where ever would be better than trying to haul long highway and freeway trips from Texas to Alaska and back. I would be so worried that the trip would end suddenly in mechanical failure a long way from home. And that would be the beginning of a very huge and new problem. Getting myself and the bike back to the starting point.
  4. I bought mine at Amazon and I got the BT Junior charger at the same time. Looks like the price of the battery has gone up about $5 since. Charger is the same. Here is a link. The page shows both. The batt weighs about 1.6 pounds. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2/159-4371621-0005721?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Battery+Tender+BTL14A240C
  5. I installed the BTL14A240C almost a year ago now. Could not be happier. Spins the bike up so much faster than a lead acid battery. Fit well ( had to install backwards so the label is off...LOL) and it has a double set of terminals. They came in handy. Just ever so slightly smaller than OEM Yuasa. Fits in OEM batt box well. Even still I used supplied foam blocks for vibration reduction and created nice air channels around the battery case with a firm dampened hold. Not a lick of cold weather starting trouble for me. Doesn't get cold here... well it's cold to me but all ya all from colder climes would laugh at that! SO 2 thumbs up from me for this Battery Tender battery...
  6. I had a corrosion problem with mine. I just took it apart and cleaned the brass parts up with steel wool and very fine sandpaper. Greased it well with w/p grease and reassembled. Not a lick of trouble since. Cost = 0. Just a little time and easy labor!
  7. Most likely a clogged jet. The jets have such tiny holes in them it is often hard to see if they are clogged. A bright background source of light will help you when looking through them for blockages. Carb Cleaner and strong air pressure is your friend. When cleaning carb be sure to blow cleaner through all the passages both directions in the carb body. Do not use cleaner on your gaskets. Also be sure your carb is reassembled correctly. Check all your gaskets and makes sure the tiny o-ring up top is there. Insure your ACV diaphragm is in good condition with zero cracks. Etc...
  8. Here is my input on the FMF Power Bomb header and Q4 muffler can. I really liked it. And ran it for several years. Yes way better than stock for performance but not tops. The tone is very nice but not as near quiet as the OEM system. FMF PB/Q4 is rated at 94-96db.( OEM around 88db ish.) I was very happy with it for that period of time. Not overtly loud. Neighborhood friendly if not heavy on the throttle. USFS certified so could go anywhere. And a small butt dyno boost when coupled with required new jetting. You can have a full MRD Z-Pro with a Quiet Core and Spark Arrestor as I do now. They have not been USFS approved for noise limit (96db) in the parks. Spark arrestor will pass their test though. But the db's will be higher with throttle push. As with most any exhaust with an open end... yes the MRD is Freeking loud! The Z-Pro with QC and SA is not obnoxiously loud but does bark when allowed. Around the hood here I am not a bit worried about bothering the neighbors or LEO when just cruising the limit. Also the MRD handles any future big e-builds well. Best of both worlds for me. Presented IMHO.
  9. grantdulude, Suspension is always a great way to go for starters. A well suspended bike will out do a engine modded bike off road. IMHO. Get your bike valved and sprung for your weight and hauled gear and if you get a bigger fuel tank. Then a modest bump in power can come from the 3 x 3 mod and (recommend) JD Jetting kit JDS005. The MRD Z-Pro is the way to go for full exhaust system no matter what build level on the engine you do. Get the QC and SA and heat shield mounts at time of purchase. Adjust your sprocket ratio gearing as you see fit for your riding conditions. Lower for off road (ie..14/47 or 15/47) taller for on road (ie..15/44 stock S or 15/41stock SM to 16/39 which needs alterations). The S 15/44 is fairly decent for average all around riding. Good DS type tires are a must over OEM TrailWings. DOT tires like Kenda 270 in 3.25-21 front and 4.50-18 rear or the Shinko 244 in similar sizes is a good start. You could start yet another tire thread or oil thread to go along with these questions. LOTS of threads already here on these subjects. Read all of the FAQ section as if it is required reading. It will help bring you up to speed on a lot of things.
  10. Motion Pro for about 10-15 bucks. I got one on eBay years ago now for 8.95 shipped. Some recommend the R6 version for quick twist. Happens to be another thread going right now on this subject. Check it out...
  11. To the OP. You will find out very quick that you need to buy a throttle tube at the same time you get your grips. The OEM one is co-molded rubber to tube. The grip is not removable without fully cutting and grinding all the rubber off of the tube. Save yourself a hella lot of time and just pick up a new throttle tube. Just sayin'... PS I do like the pillow tops. Good at damping vibrations and grippy. Maybe not as long wearing as the ones pictured above.
  12. Remember to install the parts loosely starting with the header and work your way back. Once all lined up then tighten it all down. You may have to work out the stacking of spacers and bushings where the can mounts to the frame. Logic and common sense will show you the way. Also don't forget you may need to re jet your carb! Have fun when it arrives. Oh and yeah the OEM exhaust gasket may be the best way to go. I was able to reuse mine and have had no tribbles atall... Have fun!!!
  13. LOL...it is a hard wait. So what did you get exactly? Z Pro or Pro Comp. Either are fine. Yes the PC may be a bit quieter but for performance and engine upgrades the Z Pro is where it's at. Did you order the QC and SA??? Of course you did order the E version....?
  14. ???? What are you making? Salad dressing? They are most all emulsions... What exactly is a "Thumper Racing Emulsion tube" and what will it do for you or your bike???