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About ohiodrz400sm

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  1. When it's dialed it will be as crisp as any FI bike. With "timing" I mean the setting of the accelerator pump. The goal is to be as soon as possible without hitting the slide. Too late is a bog. Too soon is a bog. Right on is neck snapped back arm stretching fun. The float level on a FCR has a significant effect on overall jetting. Too high and it richens the mixture across all circuits. Give me the best description on when it bogs. RPMs and how much throttle you are giving her.
  2. Put the jet air back in and verify the float level is at 9mm. Do you have the EMR needle? You didn't answer the O-ring mod question nor did you did you speak about the timing. 2 extremely important things! If you're snapping the throttle open like a spaz with tourettes in neutral it's going to bog. Too much rotational mass to respond instantly. What is important is how it responds while riding. The bike isn't finicky. The standard recommend jetting while not optimum in all circumstances should run cleanly. Are you positive the airboot is seated correctly? It is a major PIA. Excessive popping on decel is a lean issue. Removing the pilot air jet will only amplify the situation. Did you read William1's post on how to set the fuel screw? This setting is unique to every bike. You can't set it to what you read online and expect it to be right.
  3. Leave the pilot air jet in. That's outdated advice. Did you do the o-ring mod? That is mandatory.
  4. I just got my XT back together. I increased the main 2 sizes for the additional air flow as I also removed the airbox lid. I mixed the fuel at 50:1 using 710 and she is running noticable stronger than before. Correction, 4 sizes larger. From 150 to 160 I'm wondering if the TPS was out of calibration from the factory and it was pumping too much oil? It runs cleaner throughout, especially on top end.
  5. Man, I got excited for a minute when I saw PA but you're still 285 miles from me. I go to Mickey's Rolling Thunder which is near me in Newton Falls. It's a Dyno Jet as well. That would have been cool if both us could do runs same day. I'd even of bought the 1st round of beers.
  6. Install the 142 main jet with a stock exhaust.
  7. Direct bolt-on ,no. It can be fitted with a little ingenuity.
  8. No, my crush washer days are behind me now. I use copper flat washers these days.
  9. The tank was leaking at the fitting. That must be where the air bubbles came from.
  10. Removal kit should be at the house tomorrow. In the meantime I pulled the tank and handled the electrical part. I finished pulling the injection nozzle out. I couldn't get a good quality close up picture but there is very little evidence of adhesion to the rubber.
  11. How much money do you have into the bike at this point?
  12. Lol, yeah. Perhaps I don't word it correctly The bike feels similar to an average 125 in power at upper rpms and a 250 down low.
  13. Stone stock the XT runs like a 250 off the bottom and a 125 on top. It had more mid to top then I expected after reading all the reviews. 1 other thing I'll add is it feels a bit nervous handling on the street compare to most full sized bikes.
  14. That is the injection nipple that came loose after 19 hours on my XT. The OI system on these bike is at best a novelty and no where near as robust as sleds or other OI bikes.
  15. I'll put this bluntly. If you can only afford a 10 year old MX bike you can't afford a 4 stroke mx bike. You are 1 blown up engine away from bankruptcy. Street riding doesn't transfer at all. You would be better off starting on a trail bike(XR WR CRF***F or X) than a MX bike. Dirt bikes aren't a long term investment like a house. Buy a beginner friendly bike and develop some skills. After a year or so sell it and buy something faster if you're ready. Jumping straight into race bikes ends up badly more often than not.