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Gary Semics

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About Gary Semics

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    TT MX Technique Expert

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    Working on my motocross track in Lisbon OH. Riding motos is still my favorite thing to do. I like training on my bicycle, running, lifting weights too. Like working on the computer, especially editing video. Love having leisure time with my family. It's all good. Life is good living the dream on the back 40.

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  1. By now, everyone who rides a dirt bike, knows that there are a lot of differences between the smokers and the thumpers. Obviously, the thumpers are easier to ride because of smoother power and engine braking. But, there are some other grey area factors and details that go into understanding these two, very different, and yet similar, iron horses. When did 4 Strokes make their comeback? Until the mid 60s, 4 strokes were the kings of the track. Then, the light weight 2 strokes began to take over. The 2 stokes could put out as much HP with a fraction of the weight. It didn’t take long (by the late 60s) before they captured the hearts of all dirt bike riders. Naturally, from that point forward, all the R&D went into the new, light weight, aggressive machines. It didn’t take long for two major improvements to develop, the reed valve and the power valve. By the early 70s the reed valve (located between the carburetor and the cylinder) was on all production bikes. The reed valve greatly increased throttle response. Next, sometime in the early 80s, 2 strokes made the second breakthrough invention with the power valve. This power valve is located in the exhaust port. It changes the opening of the exhaust port according to RPMs. This awesome valve has smoothed out the hit of the two stroke’s power band a great deal. The valve creates a lot more power in the first half of the power range, and still allows the power to keep going way upstairs. This is because the valve stays closed through the first half of the RPM range, and then it opens the exhaust port volume for the second half of the RPM range. For bottom end power the exhaust port needs to be small. For top end power, the exhaust port needs to be large. But in order to get a lot of horsepower out of that two stoke engine they still have a certain amount of “hit” to the power band. Why, how and when did 4 strokes become the king of the mountain again? With all this great 2 Stroke evolution, why are 4 Stokes on top again? The “why” is because, just after the turn of the century, congress was backing the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to crackdown on air pollution. One industry in their sites was 2 stroke smokers. That’s when the entire dirt bike industry decided to put there R&D efforts and future plans in 4 Strokes. That was the beginning of the end for 2 Stroke domination. The “how” is because the AMA and FIM underestimated the potential of the 4 Strokes. They set rules that a 250 4 Stroke could race in the 125 class. Another misguided rule against 2 Strokes, was 450 4 Stokes could race in the 250 class. Once these rules were official the dirt bike manufactures spent thousands to make dyes and castings to create and sell 4 Stoke models. This unfair 4 Stroke advantage, coupled with all the R&D shifting from 2 Strokes to 4 Strokes, and hiring all the best riders to race them, well, I think you get the picture! And to add insult to injury, 2 Strokes are not allowed to race in Pro motocross or SX events. Obviously, the EPA crackdown on 2 Strokes never materialized! Most of the MX and SX racing industry would agree that lowering the displacement rules for 4 Strokes would create a more even playing field for the 2 Strokes. But, it’s too late for that, as the remanufacturing of all the dyes and castings would be way too expensive. Thankfully, 2 Strokes are still popular for the kids from 50s to 125s. They are also popular in many off-road classes. Another, hanging on by a thread fact, is that, KTM, Husqvarna and Yamaha are still creating new big bike models. The differences explained. The 4 Stroke is smooth, tractor like power, right off idle, to all the way upstairs. This is why the 4 Strokes depend less on the clutch and more on throttle control. You don’t have to help a 4 Stroke into the power, with the clutch, nearly as much as with the 2 Stroke. In order to understand and feel this concept, you have to be able to ride at a high enough skill level, so you can run tall gearing. For example, at the transition of a corner, when you first apply the power, you should be in a tall enough gear that the power comes on at the bottom of the power range. This enables the gear to pull smoother and longer before you need to shift. Using the clutch and throttle together, enables you to better control this critical area. The other difference is with engine braking. When you’re going down a straight away and you shut the throttle off on a 2 Stroke the back pressure from the engine will not slow you down much at all, but on the 4 Stroke, this engine braking is much stronger. This will make the most important part of a corner easier, (the transition, where you go from braking to accelerating). You don’t have to be quite as precise with the brakes. In a negative way, this engine braking effect could affect you on jumps too. If you shut the throttle off on the takeoff part of a jump, it could throw the front end down, much more then on a 2 Stroke. This won’t be as noticeable if you’re in a higher gear. But, if you’re in a lower gear and the engine is revving, it’s like applying the rear brake, on a 4 Stroke! Since there is tractor like power, you don’t have to be as precise with the clutch and throttle or the brakes, on a 4 Stroke, they are easier to ride. At this point in time that’s the main differences between the 2 and 4 Strokers. The actually riding techniques are the same. To sum it up. I know, I said in the beginning of this riding tip that, the thumpers are easier to ride because of smoother power and engine braking. But, there are some other grey area factors and details that go into understanding these two, very different, and yet similar, iron horses. Okay, that being said, the other factors and details are cost (bikes and parts), and maintenance (frequency, time and difficulty). I know some 4 Stroke owners who have a dealership do most of their maintenance! Back in the age of the dinosaurs, lol, when I was 15, my dad bough me a new 400 Husqvarna. I rode and raced that bike for the entire spring, summer, fall, winter (harescrambles) and the next spring. It never had any new parts, accept, chains, sprockets, air filters, cables, grips, and shock springs, maybe, handelbars, levers, and stuff like that, from crashing. It never broke down, not even once, and I rode and raced, that one bike, an awful lot!!! Then when I was 16, I got sponsored with free bikes and parts from a local CZ dealership. I could split the cased on my CZs and rebuilt the entire engine, crank, rod, tranny, clutch, everything. Compare those so called, Good Old Days, when motocross was the fastest growing motorsport in America, with today, and its only common sense that these factors are keeping less and less people from buying, riding and racing dirt bikes. Then consider, less places to ride and spending the entire day at a local race to have a 10 minute crowded practice session, and short motos. Back in the late 60s and early 70s, there were tons of places to ride; local races had two long practice sessions and three 20 minute motos per class. There were only four or five classes. By the mid 70s, it seemed like everyone had a dirt bike. I’ll say it again; Motocross was the fastest growing sport in America! Today in 2019, I still ride my RM250, but I’m still guilty of riding the 4 Stroke wave. I held on to the smokers as long as I could, but in 06 I got a 250 and a 450 CRF. I still had two RM250s, and would ride all of them pretty equally. By 2010 I had two KX250Fs, and the two aggressive screaming, RMs sat in the shop. Here’s a video from when I broke the RM back out years of storage. It explains and shows, from a rider’s standpoint, what the riding differences are between these two types of iron horses. I hope they never become extinct! The instructional part is over half way through the video. If you’re serious about Mastering the Art of Motocross Clutch, Throttle and Shifting Control (both 2 and 4 Strokes) this 2011 video production is a Must Have! It breaks down all the how to details and practice methods to make the Five Controls (Clutch, Throttle, Shifter, Front and Rear Brakes) become an extension of your body!!! https://gsmxs.com/shop/motocross-clutch-throttle-shifting-techniques/ Ride hard, ride smart and have fun, Gary Semics
  2. Gary Semics

    SCARED of crashing and jumping

    I sounds like what you fear is a lack of confidence in your riding skills. I wrote this article (below) some time ago. I hope it helps you understand your fear and help you get over it. Injury and fear What you are referring to is a very deep subject. There could be a different answer for just about every person who has ever been really hurt on a M/C. Everyone has some fear when they ride or race or they wouldn't be human. Think about this simple test for a moment. If we have two people, Chuck and Tim, Chuck is normal regarding heights but Tim is afraid of heights. We have a strong board that is twelve feet long and eight inches wide. We extend this board 3 feet off the ground and have Chuck and Tim walk across it for $10.00. No problem, one at a time they both stand at the end of the board with relaxed muscles, steady concentration looking out in front of them at the board and walk across it easily for the $10.00. Then we extend the board 50 feet in the air between two buildings and ask Chuck and Tim to walk across it for $100.00. Chuck is first; he stands at the edge of the board ready to walk across it. Chuck has just enough fear to turn on all his senses, and he is 100% concentrating on his goal, walking across that board. He makes it no problem and collects an easy $100.00. Tim is next as he stands at the end of the board, his breathing is short and shallow, his muscles begin to tighten, the palms of his hands become wet and clammy, he feels a lump in his throat and Tim’s concentration is interrupted with thoughts of falling to his death or serious injury. Tim’s fear makes his goal of walking across the board much more difficult. Objects are those frightful things you see when you take your mind off your goals. It’s the same kind of thing when it comes to riding or racing; too much fear and mental distractions makes you perform much worst and are more likely to be injured. If anyone tells you that they don’t have any fear at all when they ride or race they are not being honest with themselves or you. Everyone has at least just a little bit of fear when they put that helmet on. And besides, if they didn’t have any fear at all they wouldn’t be able to perform as well. Remember, just a little bit of fear is enough to make it important enough to kick in the primordial juices without getting too much fear to tighten you up. So how does one produce just the right amount of fear without red lining the fear factor? Well, I don’t think anyone has a problem with not having enough fear. The question is how does one not have too much fear while racing? In short the answer is confidence. The dictionaries’ definition of confidence is; trust, reliance, self-assurance. Know your limits, don't take any unnecessary chances and stay in the zone, the zone of being in the moment and keeping 100% concentration on what you are doing. When the pain goes away and some time passes you’ll be wanting to get back on the iron horse. Don’t worry about it now; a full recovery is the important thing now. Take one day at a time.
  3. Gary Semics

    Top 5 Bike Setup Adjustments

    Oh yes, I realized that, but never thought of it as two more adjustments, beside the two holes in the top triple clamp. But, you are right, that is actually 4 adjustments. Of course, these 4 adjustments allow forward and back adjustments for the handlebars. These adjustments effect, what is called, the rider compartment. The other part of this rider compartment are the foot pegs. Imagine two vertical lines straight up. One up from the handle grips and the other up from the foot pegs. I say, the handle grips bc the sweep of the bars also effects this measurement. Then measure, horizontally the distance between those two lines. This is your rider compartment. Taller riders, especially with long arms, require more rider compartment. Of course, shorter riders require less. In case you, or anyone, is interested, all of those and much more are explained and shown in my Body Positions and Movements DVD.
  4. Gary Semics

    Best kept motocross steering secret!

    Yes, it's like any new technique, in order to reprogram your sub-conscious, muscle memory and automatic reflex reactions, you first, have to slow down and stay aware that you're doing the technique correctly, long enough, through repetition, that the new technique gets reprogrammed. How long does this take, that depended on how deeply the wrong technique has been laid down in your "Myelin" neurotransmitter !
  5. Gary Semics

    Best Motocross Camps/Schools

    Yeah, getting to a good motocross school is a great way to learn! I do have 9 Certified MX Instructors in six different countries but none, at this time, near CO. I have had a lot of success helping riders with my Motocross Techniques/Training DVDs. I now have all this content available through our VOD Streaming and Downloading website, with over 36 hours of Techniques and Training videos, and new videos being added monthly. These videos, especially the newer videos, really break down all the techniques of motocross into practice drills that are delivered into an easy to understand and apply format...very organized and to the important points of the techniques and most common mistakes. Follow the link above, then click the "Browse" button to learn what's in each subscription.
  6. Through most motocross corners, you are steering with the front wheel. I say most because sometimes, riders are steering with the rear wheel by using the rear brake or throttle. When steering with the front wheel, most riders don’t really know how they are doing it. That’s hard to believe, right, but it’s true. Okay then, before reading any further, take a minute and think through how you steer with the front wheel. Now, read on and find out this one very important part of steering. Most riders think that you just lean the bike over and kind of hold the handlebar through the corner. But they would be wrong. In order to have the most control and use the least amount of physical energy you should know this one simple fact! Use your inside arm to steer, not your outside arm! I would guess that 98% of riders weight the bars while steering and to make matters even worst, they weight both sides evenly. Weighting the bars is the first mistake. They should be supporting as much of their weight as possible on the foot pegs first, the seat second and the least amount on the handlebars. When they support they’re weight on the bars, they are making the bike top heavy. Obviously, this is not good for how the bike handles. It’s also not good for the upper body of the rider to handle the bike. This is because the upper body should remain loose, so it can move and balance the bike and maintain the body’s center of balance. The legs and core should be the stabilizers, not the arms! Through my motocross schools, I coined the phrase, “Tight Legs, Loose Arms” as a reminder. When they are weighting the bars evenly they are losing the ease and accuracy of steering with the inside bar. It only takes a very small amount of weight, pushing down, on the inside bar to make the bike turn more, and even less weight to make it maintain steering through a corner. This should be happening while the outside arm just holds the proper upper body framework and controls the positions and movements of the upper body. When you begin practicing this unique technique, it’s best to start with an easy flat, smooth corner, while going well below your max speed. After you get good at it, you’ll find it’s useful in all types of corners, even rough corners. Before you begin practicing this secret corning technique, you should watch this short video on this very subject. It is number 5 of the “Seven most common cornering mistakes relating to body positions and movements”. This entire new video and many others are only available in my VOD Streaming and Downloading subscriptions. There you will have instant access to over 37 hours of techniques/training videos and many PDF files with illustrating photos. Download the free Intelivideo app and watch them on any Smart TV, Mobile Device or browser (without the app)! Learn more at… https://garysemicsmxschoolsandvideos.intelivideo.com/
  7. Gary Semics

    Top 5 Bike Setup Adjustments

    I'm not aware of 4 bar mount positions, only 2. Please explain?
  8. Gary Semics

    Top 5 Bike Setup Adjustments

    It doesn’t matter if you’re riding a 65 or a 450, there are many adjustments that are necessary in order to have your bike fitting you like a glove. Here are the top five. 1. Setting the rider sag on the rear shock spring. 2. Setting the pre-load on the front forks. 3. Adjusting the angle of the handlebars in the bar mounts. 4. Adjusting the angle to the levers (clutch and front brake). 5. Adjusting the height of the rear brake pedal. The reasons these are so important are… 1. Setting the rider sag on the rear shock spring. 2. Setting the pre-load on the front forks. Numbers one and two are critical for balancing the chassis. For example, if the rear shock spring has too much pre-load on the shock spring, the rear of the bike will be too high, which will make the front too low. Not only will you be handy caped from the action of the suspension not work as well, but also the bike will not steer well eight. In this case the front will want to turn too sharply, maybe knife in and tuck. The frontend will also be more likely to headshake. On the other hand, if the pre-load on the rear shock spring is set too soft. Of course, the rear of the bike will be too low, which will make the front too high. With this setup the bike will not steer well, and will be likely that the front wheel will push out in the corners. The bike will also want to stand up in the corners. Of course, the same goes for the front suspension’s pre-load adjustments being set too high or low. The rear shock spring on full size bikes, like, 125, 250 and up should have between 105 and 110 mm of rider sag. Rider sag, means with the rider sitting or standing in the central location. Free sag should be between 15 and 35 mm. Free sag is just from the bike’s own weight. Of course, the first measurement for both of these adjustments have to be measured while the bike is on the stand with the suspension fully extended. For smaller bikes, check your owner’s manual for the recommended setting. 3. Adjusting the angle of the handlebars in the bar mounts. This will affect what is known as the “Rider Compartment”. This is the distance between the foot pegs and the handle grips. To start with the way the handlebar is made, the height and bend of the bar should match your preferences for your height, arm length and just what you prefer. The problem is, most C Class riders don’t know what they prefer. The only way to know is to try a lot of different bars. These different bars will also depend of the chassis of the bike. Even if a bar doesn’t fit a C Rider, but he using it for a long time anyway, he will get used to it and think it’s the best bar for him or her. For example, let’s say, he bends these bars and has to buy new bars. He gets lucky and gets the perfect bars for him. He will not like them on the first day of riding, but by the second day he will like them better. Whatever bar you have, adjust them in the bar mounts so the grips are parallel to the ground when the bike is on the ground with you sitting in the central location. This “Central Location” is when you are sitting in the front pocket of the seat and your eyes and straight up over the handlebar mounts. 4. Adjusting the angle to the levers (clutch and front brake). If you are having trouble keeping your elbows up and out away from your sides, this all starts with your hand position on the bars. If your hands are not grabbing the grips high enough (known as a high over grip) you will not be able to ride with high elbows. In this case it’s better to adjust the levers down at a lower angle (about 45 degrees down). The front brake lever should be a little lower then the clutch, because of using the front brake while you go from the braking hand position, to the accelerating hand position (known as the “Re-Grip). Once you have mastered the “High Grip and the Re-Grip) you should begin to move the levers up, in order to find your sweet spot. But remember, the front brake should always be set a little lower then the clutch. 5. Adjusting the height of the rear brake pedal. While the bike is on the ground, the rear brake should be adjusted about a ¼ inch higher then the foot peg. This is because you have to be able to apply it hard, while your foot is pivoting on the foot peg from the arch of your foot. You have to be able to do this while you are standing with your weight back as far as possible. If you are used to having your rear brake adjusted lower, at first, you will not like this higher adjustment, especially when you are sitting down. Especially, if you were using the rear brake, while sitting, and keeping your foot on the peg. This is one of the things where you can’t have the best of both worlds, instead you have to compromise a little. If you have the rear brake adjusted low enough, so you can keep your foot of the peg and use it, while you’re sitting on the front part of the seat for a corner, you will not be able to reach it when you’re standing with your body weight back. And this is the body position where you should be braking the hardest. There are many other “Bike Setup” adjustments that every rider should make according to their height, weight and skill level. Settings like; - Fork and shock springs for rider weight and skill level. - How to test and adjusting the compression and rebound clickers on the front forks and rear shock. - Testing and adjusting the high-speed compression adjuster on the rear shock. - How to test and adjust the height of the front forks in the triple clamps. - How to test and adjust the jetting of the carburetor (2 strokes only). - Setting the tire pressure. I would much rather race a stock bike that is adjusted properly, then race a full-on Works Bike that is out of adjustment. You probably don’t realize it yet, but your bike setup is extremely important. Why do you think the top pros spend sssooo much time TESTING!!! If you really want to get your bike dialed in and fitting you like a glove, you may be interested in my Bike Setup DVD which is on sale now for just 9.98. https://gsmxs.com/shop/motocross-bike-setup/ Ride hard, ride smart and have fun, Gary
  9. Two Wheels TV is your new destination for global motorcycling entertainment. Over 100 live and on-demand races a year from around the world. Shows. Exclusives. Motocross, Hard Enduro, Road Racing, Speedway, MX Extreme Freestyle, Ice Racing, Drag Bikes, Est! All for only $4.99 a month. It's like Netflix for motorcycling. Copy and paste the link below to activate your subscription now! https://twowheelstv.inplayer.com/?afmc=1k
  10. Gary Semics

    Semics vs Dubach

    Dubach's method is more common among C and low level B riders bc it's easier to do, especially on 4 strokes. I believe my, no coasting, method is more efficient and applied more with the higher skill level riders. For example, I've heard that Blake Bagget and some other pros, use a special clutch, so the engine doesn't have any engine braking. This is bc they want to control the brakes, all on their own. I have watched the pros use the brakes many times, and have founded my techniques accordingly. Of course, I have tried their techniques and applied them into my automatic (muscle memory) techniques. Of course, there are exceptions to every rule, as there will be certain types of corners where this will not apply. For example, long, sweeping rutted, corners, where a lot of momentum is carried all the way through the corner. But, in most corners, I believe no coasting should be taking place. Here's a good video showing why this method is best.
  11. Gary Semics

    Winter training

    Running is good because you are using all muscles at the same time, which enables a high heart rate (HR). Over a five month period, I developed a Dumbbell Cardio Workout that is sports specific for motocross. Below is some info and a short sample video. If you are really serious about training for motocross, the only place this four part video is accessible is in my Online Coaching subscription. Motocross Workouts at home – is your fitness up to par? Motocross is one of the most physically demanding sports on the planet! To ride good, have fun and stay safe your physical fitness is a primary key. During a race or even during practice sessions a motocross racer’s heart rate (HR) will max out. Their average HR will be at about 90% of max during a 15 minute or longer moto. Just by lining up on the starting gate most riders will be at about 75% of their max HR. In light of these facts it’s easy to understand that motocross is an extremely physical and demanding sport. For anyone, even seasoned athletes who are in excellent shape, maintaining an average 90% of max HR is very difficult to do; however, doing it while practicing or racing motocross makes it seem easier. Why is this, you may ask? When maintaining a high HR while doing things like, running, cycling or swimming, your HR will raise by the work your body is doing and your mind feels pretty much all of the discomfort, even down-right pain. When riding or racing motocross not only is your body working hard, but also your mind is on high alert. All of your senses are fully activated by your sensory perception. Because of the excitement and the element of danger, this sensory perception is turned on full throttle, so to speak. Since your body and mind are using mass amounts of energy it takes an excellent cardiovascular system to keep all your blood flowing. The flow not only carries blood but everything in your blood: like fuel, nutrients and oxygen. I guess this could be bad or good news. It all depends how you look at it. The bad news could be you have to train, exercise and lead a relatively clean life style. But is that really bad news? The good news is being in good physical shape has many benefits like, looking and feeling better. Again, it’s all in the way you look at it. Most people don’t understand that the body needs movement on a regular basis in order to deliver blood and nutrients to all the muscles and soft tissues of the entire body. The proof of these facts is easy to understand when you consider what happens to an arm or leg that is put in a case for 6 weeks, atrophied! Many riders may think they don’t need to be in very good shape, because they are just riding for fun or they’re races are very short. But they fail to see the fact that by being in better shape they will have more fun. Being in better shape will also allow them to ride longer and better in order to keep increasing their skill levels. To be honest, riders who think they don’t need to be in good shape are just using that belief as another excuse not to train. Riders can have many different excuses for not taking training seriously, excuses like not enough time, no one to train with, they live too far from a gym, or they are too tired to train before or after work. I’m sure all these excuses are very real to them. I say real to them because they have convinced themselves that they are real. For one thing, you don’t need to go to a gym to train. In the time it takes to get ready, go to the gym and get back home you could have done your workout at home. If they have a physically demanding job and they really are too tired, they could do some type of easy cardio training, stretching or yoga that would be mentally and physically beneficial. There are many ways to train at home. To make a real change with your training habits you have to change the way you think about training, change your perception about training. This doesn’t mean just changing your conscious thoughts about training but changing your beliefs about training at the core, in your sub-conscious mind. If you’re not already training regularly, it means you have negative thoughts and therefore negative beliefs about training and exercising. This causes you to not want to do it and it’s easy to find excuses for not doing it. Once you change these negative thoughts and beliefs into positive ones you will want to train and exercise on a regular basis it will become a habit, a life style and your enjoyment of motocross, along with your riding skills and safety will increase big time! The bottom line comes down to, what’s important to you, if your motocross riding/racing is toward the top of your list, then except the facts, change your thoughts and beliefs about training and make it a life style. Changing your beliefs is easy to do and just takes a little ambition and know how. It helps to start with some every day, short and long term goals. This first step is very important, so take some time and write out your goals. Then put them in a place where you’ll see them every day. Doing this not only will remind you but also makes them more real. For some people going cold turkey and changing everything at once works, but for most this is not the best method. It’s usually better to change things gradually, like one or two things per day. This method is a lot less stressful on your mind and body and you will be more likely to make lasting changes. Of course getting the desired results from changing your thoughts and beliefs will most likely take time. Until this happens and you really want to exercise you’re going to have to use commitment and will power. Your brain will come up with all the excuses you can image and you’re going to need to ignore them and workout anyway. The import thing is to start out gradually with your frequency, duration and intensity and be consistent. It’s better to workout a little 5 days a week then to workout too much 2 days a week. If you haven’t been training you shouldn’t train too hard in the beginning. Just do what’s comfortable and keep building. If you’re not used to training and you go too hard, chances are you won’t stick with it. The first step is making it a habit. Then according to your goals, you would increase the frequencies, durations and intensities in order to reach your goals. Once exercising becomes a habit you’ll be like the millions of other people who have kicked their bad habits and replaced them with good, healthy habits like exercise and eating smart. Don’t think of why you can’t do this, rather think of how you can. One step at a time. Discover how fun motocross really can be! Ok, so once you make the commitment to start training how do you know you’re training methods and strategies are effective for motocross? All sports have different training methods. This is known as “Sports Specific Training”. Motocross is one of the sports where this is the most complicated because motocross uses all the muscles of your body at the same time constantly. Not only do all your muscles get worked at the same time but they also get worked both aerobically and anaerobically, meaning both cardio and strength is needed. There’s a fine line in the way these two forms of exercise need to be done in order to get the best benefits on the mx bike. More bad and good news, in order to understand and apply the most effective ways to training for motocross, you would need a personal Pro motocross trainer or how to videos and books. The good news is we have videos and manuals available. We have two MX Conditioning DVDs, we also have an Instant Access Video On Demand Streaming platform… Riders can choose one of three subscriptions, with one being an “Online Coaching” subscription. This one has all the most important mx practice drills, fitness workouts, weekly routines, the mental side of training and racing, stretching, strength, nutrition and pretty much everything that goes into a rider’s weekly preparation plans. It has a wide verity of Weekly Routines for the Weekend Warrior to the full time Pro. I hope this article gives you some motivation to keep training or if you haven’t already started to get started. Whatever your goals may be, I hope you ride and train smart, stay safe and have fun! https://youtu.be/s6GLwqyWSCQ
  12. Gary Semics

    head shake

    The main reason you get head shake is because the front end is too low in relation to the rear end. Check the rear shock spring's "Rider Sag". It should be between 105 and 110 mm. If the measurement is lower, you have too much p reload on the spring. This will make the front end too low. Or you're rear shock spring's preload maybe okay, but your front fork springs maybe too soft or not have enough preload. Another way to fix this head shake problem is to drop the forks in the triple clamps. 3mm will make a noticeable difference. There's always a happy medium with chassis and suspension setup. You have to try one adjustment at a time until you like it. You maybe interested in my Bike Set Up DVD.
  13. Gary Semics

    Bike Kicking to Right

    Is there any type of rut or dished out area, where you are taking off from the jump? If so, you have to stay leaned over as you take off from the jump. If you stand the bike up, from the way you were leaning, as you take off, it will swap.
  14. Gary Semics

    Front or rear brake

    Here's a short video that better describes and shows why both brakes are equally important.
  15. This is a short video of the two hour motocross and off-road riding tips seminar I did at the Triumph/Yamaha of Warren, Ohio dealership. This video covers the most important thing you should know about riding your dirt bike! One of my Pro racers, Michael Hand was on hand, ha, to help me out. We covered riding techniques, practice strategies, fitness training, nutrition and the mental side of training and racing. We even had Rocket Rob Buydos do the introductions. 47 riders attended.