GHILL28

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GHILL28 last won the day on December 23 2011

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About GHILL28

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    Male
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    California
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    MX/trails, mountain biking, ice hockey, SCUBA, mechanical engineering.
  1. Stock valving, shorter rear shock with MXT adjuster, .50kg fork springs, forks 5 or 6mm up, 104 to 105 sag. Stock rear spring but the MX bike 5.9kg spring also works. 185lb plus gear/tools.
  2. I run my steering stabilizer wound completely off on my FX now that it's set up right. If I'm running 5th gear sandwashes (and I do mean 5th gear only), then I turn it up a bit. Everything shy of that the bike is plenty stable on its own, including everywhere else in the Southern CA desert.
  3. I just re-read it. I'm running a 38mm carb with mine, and also running CA 91 gas too. Nonetheless, the baseline he gave me for 2500-6k feet with those two factors was 42/175. I'd expect one step richer from there for running at sea level. Most jetting specs stay the same between a 36mm carb and 38mm carb however.
  4. NEDG or H 3rd clip 7 slide
  5. What are your jetting/carb/elevation/fuel specs?
  6. 8x-10x face shims on the stock stack should be a good enough starting point in my experience dicking around with those KYB shocks. What actually works quite well on KYB rear shocks is the MX-Tech adjuster since it has a low speed rebound stack in it. The stock rebound stack is plenty in that case, and that extra bit of metering helps correct the large amount of bleed across the main piston. Correcting excessive bleed with a super stiff stack is a bandaid. Fix that problem first and everything else falls into place much easier. A 3-stage stack is pretty pointless. The only thing that's doing is confusing people with a complicated way to get a result that's obtainable from other conventional methods.
  7. Shorten the rear shock 3mm and get a 49t sprocket on there to correct the swingarm length, then the chassis will come into (better) balance. And stiffer fork springs. Most adults who are sized correctly for this bike aren't getting any help from the stock 0.46's unless they're just farting around in flat woods type stuff.
  8. Cat might be out of the bag.... http://www.promotocross.com/mx/event/hangtown-2018/video/hangtown-450-moto-2-tomac-goes-down Wheel stopped, left hand off the bars completely, bike still running.....unless he got SUPER lucky and the dirt was holding the clutch lever in.
  9. That PHDS thing from X-Trig makes a pretty big difference. Have ridden my 2014 with that back to back with a stock 2014 and it's a substantial change.
  10. 7x .3 rebound shims is nothing short of retarded. Run that if you want, but it's probably going to be less balanced than your stock rear end.
  11. Ride off a loading dock a couple times and see if they return to normal. If they do, they're just pumping up over time.
  12. One of two things is happening: - You're hydraulically locking the free piston with oil above it since it has nowhere to go, which is why your ICS rod seal is an important factor. If that's blowing by, you're filling that upper chamber with fluid and locking it up. You could also drill those pistons (which is a good idea anyway) or just use the plastic pistons and remove the upper seal to make that chamber common with the outer chamber. First thing is to figure out why there is oil up there (if there is). When you bleed the cartridge, it's supposed to exhaust out along the OD of the free piston and out of the cartridge - not along the rod, which is how a Showa BV acts. - The cartridge is bent. Take a straight edge to it at 4 points 90 degrees apart and see if you can see daylight under the middle of the straight edge on any of them. Then put a feeler gauge under to see how much it's bent. The spring seat might make that difficult. How does the rod cycle with no fluid and no base valve installed? - The new aftermarket IC piston is too long and it's hitting the top cap before all the fluid is purged. Functionally the same as coil bind from the IC spring. OEM plastic pistons that are drilled with the top seal removed are the best bet. With the top seal removed, you'll never mess up the cartridge ID with a plastic piston rubbing against it (if it were to ever tilt for some reason). With an aluminum piston, both can get screwed up if you remove that upper seal.
  13. Just go stupid soft on the compression stack, and the Cadj stack, and throw a bunch of .3 face shims on rebound and you're there. It'll be awesome for a single hit.