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pacifist

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Everything posted by pacifist

  1. Hi all, I'm getting confused as hell on what's going on with this. Long story short: I got an FCR-MX from Eddie back when my bike was: - stock bore - 434 - hotcams - MRD (standard i.e. has cap in the end). Since then I've installed a 434 kit. I believe the FCR-MX (39) came with - 160 main - 48 pilot - no PAJ - EMN clip 3? - temps here are about 70f - I'm at about sea level I've got one of these: http://www.innovatem...products/db.php wideband guages (in hindsight I should've got the LM-2 but oh well). What I'm finding is that with the fuel screw all the way in it's still running rich at idle once warmed up. I've gone all the way down to a 38 pilot but I'm finding that with it only 1 turn out it's in an ok range cold, it's felt like the wrong thing to do, yet the bike's been running better, so maybe it's right? but: - When warm it idles at about 12.5 with the 38 pilot jet mostly in. I'd like it to be 13.5+ Basically when I go to a good stretch of closed road and do a run in fourth gear I find: - As soon as I open the throttle it shoots rich, to 12ish or so. This is probablyy the wired AP linkage( I know, been meaning to pull the carb and try tuning without it, don't think it explains my other issues though?). - most of the mid-range is around 12.5-13. I might try emn-2 - after 3/4 throttle it shoots up to 14.5 or so, with the 160. So I should go a jet size richer? Two? What I'm wondering, is would I be going on the right track to order a 35 pilot jet, and a 162 & 165 main ? This seems like I'm off on the wrong track based on what the normal recommendations are. (I've tried to read a *lot* of threads). Should I be trying a different needle? Appreciate any help, really don't know what's going on. Heh, forgot to mention, it's a DRZ-SM if it makes a difference.
  2. Just over 1500 rpm; i guess I could try setting it lower but I've normally got it set about as low as it'll reliably run anyway. I'm still having trouble believing I'm going to get different results though when there seems to be evidence that that jet is still way too rich. The fuel screw with the 38 pilot is letting me adjust between I think 12.5 down to below 10 on the afr... and the bike behaves and sounds like the readings are true. The o2 sensor is on a welded bung near the mcct.
  3. R&D flexjet; http://www.r1dean.co...&products_id=48 With the 38 pilot I can screw it all the way in and it'll still idle, though very inconsistently. The wideband will vary a bit but still be in the mid 12's, mostly. Mostly I'm justt surprised though that all the recomendationns I've seen have been for something like a 45 pilot, EMN-3, 155 main for a 434 with cams. Where I seem to need a far leaner pilot and a *far* richer main.
  4. Hi, i know these questions have been asked a million times and over the last 6 months in preparation ive tried to read all i can. Last week i finally did the mods and can't seem to get it right, power only seems about stock, but worse, im pretty sure its lean. I've already pulled the carb twice. 2011 dr-z400sm australian version (pair still connected, put a screw with rtv in the solenoid line) mikuni jd jet kit jds005 iirc kientech fuel screw 3x3 mrd standard (wow is it loud even though its the 96db.. much as im sure its better i think i shouldve chickened out and gone a q4 or something but thats off topic). I'm in sydney which is 50-80f and average 50-65% humidity i think, its been warm lately. Initially I tried: 155 (i read mrd standard isnt as open) blue needle 4th clip from top 22.5 paj 2.75 fuel screw, but in practice i went all the way to 4 turns and it still seemed lean but maybe im misreading the symptoms: lots of popping, sometimes a fast burst of them together every time i change gear or decel. It also seems to top out early (at a guess 7k rpm?) when i try and go WOT. the mrd has gone a solid golden brown almost all the way to the head. so i pulled the carb and tried 160... but its still the same at 4+ turns. At the moment I'm guessing my next step is to pull the carb again and go 25 pilot though i read this wont work with the kientech since it'll still idle on a closed fuel screw? Should i try 3rd clip? red needle? Its been taking me ages to get the carb in and out again.. i read that you can pull the rear boot behind the frame to get it out without undoing the subframe but im not sure if thats possible with the aussie version? i find theres a lot in the way with what i think is the charcoal cannister on the other side and the solenoid valve on the top and the solenoid on the bottom of my mikuni getting in the way. appreciate any help i can get at this point because I've been tearing my hair out for a few days trying to get things right. Im guessing im going to have to look into finding a dyno :/ all the ones I've been able to find don't seem to like carbs and with how much they cosst i could get an fcr...
  5. thanks damn, hope I haven't done any damage; I've probably done 100k+ trying to figure things out.
  6. Sorry Eddie, but I'm dumb and would like to understand a little better: - is the pair valve actually making it lean, or - do the symptoms (popping from the pair valve etc) make it seem lean, when it's actually not? I ask because it's going to take me a week to get around to making the blocking plate, but don't want to ride the bike if it'll risk damaging it.
  7. thanks, I'd missed that the pair makes it lean. Left it on because id read wrongly on a British forum that it didn't change much and wanted to make minimal changes to the bike.
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