scrappymcnugget

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About scrappymcnugget

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    California
  1. Thanks for the advice everyone. Yea realized after reading the feedback that it is in fact the float bowl plug/stop. The original wasn't brass so I didn't even notice it. Thanks for the fuel screw info though, great tuning advise that I'll use. They are not keihn jets and have different numbers so I won't use and just soak and clean out. Bike was running perfect before it sat for 6+ months so id rather not risk changing jet sizes anyway. Thanks again everyone!!!
  2. 2007 WR250F Carburetor Rebuilt in process. I got a carb rebuild kit off ebay (psychic brand) and I came across a extra part, and have no idea what it is. Can't find a part that looks like it in the manual or oem part viewer. I've pointed to it with a red arrow in the attachment.. Anyone know what it does? Also, a couple small acc pump o-ring parts were missing from my kit. Has anyone ever just replaced these with some similar O-rings that I can get at Ace hardware? I forget if these factory orings are heat/solvent rated any better than regular O-rings. Some of the jets (leak jet) were smaller than the jets currently in my bike so I'm leaving the original jets in and just cleaning with carb cleaner and soaking. Still getting some residue on the parts, and hesitant to pet anything metal through them in fear of enlarging. Anyone got advice on what to push thru to ensure it's clean or just leave? Thanks in advance!!! Any input is appreciated.
  3. Thanks guys... and I'll take the advice. Although I don't have noticeable seizing, TT mentioned "notchy" which would probably better describe my scenario. About 15 degrees of free play in the center and a tiny bit of friction outside of that, which is probably gets amplified while riding. Probably gets locked into any deformations making steering feel heavy I'll rip into the assembly and get a ride in it and get back with some comments. Thanks for the input.
  4. I've noticed during a long riding day and through woops and deep soft sand, that my steering feels like it locks up and feel super heavy. After I slow down, or when the bike is on the stand I don't notice any binding or looseness. Notice it most after a long run through soft dry washes. I've ridden for years and never experienced this and would assume bad steering bearings would only cause sloppy wobbly feeling. 07 wr250f that's pretty stock- no steering damper - front shocks rebuilt last year with stock valving. I've never touched the front steering bearings because they've never felt sloppy. Shocks, Steering bearings, my body locking up, I don't know where to start? I know this may just be my lack of knowledge here so any advise is appreciated.
  5. I just picked up an 07 wr250f and the speedomoter / odometer isn't working. The background lights up green, but no #'s letters or hello messages - boo. I was told by the previous owner that it stopped working when the battery "bounced around and the ground wire broke" on a ride. The ground wire is attached and bike starts up and all, just no reading on the screen. Sorry, I'm new to the odometers and such, but my guess is the quick connect/disconnect busted something inside the module itself. Anyone take one of these apart? Is there a fuse inside? Has anyone had this issue before? Thanks in advance. I know this is the 400+ forum, but I think the wrs all have the same module..
  6. I just picked up an 07 wr250f and the speedomoter / odometer isn't working. The background lights up green, but no #'s letters or hello messages - boo. I was told by the previous owner that it stopped working when the battery "bounced around and the ground wire broke" on a ride. The ground wire is attached and bike starts up and all, just no reading on the screen. Sorry, I'm new to the odometers and such, but my guess is the quick connect/disconnect busted something inside the module itself. Anyone take one of these apart? Is there a fuse inside? Has anyone had this issue before? Thanks in advance.
  7. Sweet, thanks Yama4stroker. Per your post, I started looking into the '99 and newer and it appears that is what I have for the rear wheel/hub. When I was looking around at sizing I found this site: http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/ It has dimensions/sizes for sprockets of any bike imaginable, with great search options. I made some measurements and found out what I had. Now I can order the new sprocket. Thanks Yama4stroker! The "C49" is simply the material type, carbon steel, and has nothing to to with the tooth #.
  8. I've got a street legal 98 WR400 and replacing the chain/sprockets as they are pretty worn. I ordered the sprocket and o-ring set (it had a roller chain on it) and realized the rear sprocket I odered is too big for the hub. The hole in the center of the new sprocket is about 6" and the old sprocket hole is about 5.35". That kind of hub do I have? Both have a 6-hole pattern, but the hub/wheel must be from some other yamaha. Are WR hubs and YZ hubs different? Less important-The rear sprocket was marked "C49" but its actually a 46. 14/49 is stock YZ gearing so I naturally ordered a YZ package as I'm trying to keep the bike geared as much like a YZ as I can. Yes the bike is street legal but I'd like to keep it as mud/trail/dune worthy as possible. Sorry in advance, I've only had the bike 6 months so I don't know all the history.
  9. Wow, I assumed there was no need for a rim lock in the front so I never gave it a second though (had to go look at my other bike to verify it had one on the front). My guess is the previous owner removed it for balancing (it's street legal) or to make it easy. Thanks for the info - totally makes sense, and thanks "davegod" for the lite locks tip, I'm gonna grab those.
  10. I keep tearing/breaking off my tube (valve) stems in my front tire.. 3 rides on "new to me" bike, and I just ripped/broke off my 2nd stem. I know that is common in the rear wheel when the tire locks are not tightened, but can it really happen in the front? No tire locks in front. Ive replaced many tires/tubes and pay close attention to make sure the stem seats perpendicular through the hole, but I don't use baby powder or anything. Can the front tire really be rotating around the rim? Or is there another common issue I don't know about. Any help/suggestions are appreciated. 98 YZ400.
  11. I picked up a YZ400 CA street legal bike. I rebuilt the top end and ran great on a dunes trip but... the electrical stuff is a mystery to me and I 'd like to get the lighting working properly/actually street legal for some dual sport rides. My question is: Does anyone have a good schematic for a Street Legal YZ400? AND/OR: Does anyone in the Costa Mesa, CA area have a good understanding of the wiring and want to make a couple bucks helping me out? Here's what I have: 1998 YZ400: Working LED brake light, DHH (Acerbis) headlight w/ Hi/Lo switch that pops bulbs when the rpms vary. I have a key switch wired and got the mini 12V battery from Baja Designs.. Installed the battery the way I thought it should be but popped a couple 5AMP fuses after starting.. Not sure which stator I have (YZ/WR). I have some baja designs schematics I downloaded and some from the clymers manual but nothing covers the street legal stuff. If I run a battery, do I still need the WR stator? I just really don't know what I have going on electrically. Apologies in advance... I'm only 2 stroke experienced.
  12. I'm rebuilding my top end and would like advice/links for do's and don'ts. I've rebuilt 2 strokes, read the manual on my bike, and know the basic routine, but this is my first 4 stroke and I'm not sure if I should keep it the stock bore, or go up (reliabilty key for me) and particularly which cylinder I have (wiseco shows 2 different pistons for my bike). Quickest/Cheapest piston delivery? What is the "rule of thumb" for replacing cyliders (I've heard anything you can catch a nail on should be bored out). I understand theres tons of info I'm asking, so sorry in advance, I just need a good starting point and to make sure I'm on the right track. The reason I'm doing the rebuilt was a blown head gasket. Any help would be great and thank in advance.