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About hvymtlfan

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  1. Heflin07: Thanks for posting follow-up..... happen to see post in daily email yet sadly never replied. Have (had) same issue riding last winter... yet from other non Yamaha post.... ended up w/ a fractured sacrum all last year and still an issue..... so still no riding. Found your reply interesting... since developed about same issue & just chaulked it up to weather variations w/o any adjustments.... so I'll have to take a look at the vac. plate seal as well. Or, start making adjustments accordingly.... Tossed a new header pipe this past fall (more for looks) from pitted / rocked, yet + with grayracer and should replace w/ new at joint. Good tips from others... and nice to see info relative to an 04. Later...
  2. Hey all, Just wondered if "anyone" has ever had a Sacrum Fracture from MX riding ? Actually have had issue since March of this year that "surfaced" after running. Was riding a fair amount over winter (nill snow), and wondering if it's something that possibly fractured from jumping (ok... I'm now 46 so not the bones of my early 20's). That said, orig. thought just hip pull (or more like bursitis), yet this went on all summer till I had enough. Took 3 MRI's to "finally" find an 8x10mm fracture of my left Sacrum. Typically a compression fracture... so wondering if the combo of MX and running 40+ miles a week finally did me in. Now that we've found it... they say healing time 6-8 weeks....bull shit... I've had this since March and it's not getting better. Actually was the one that pushed the MRI's.... kept telling them it was my Pelvis area, yet they started w/ lower back... then upper leg... then 3rd was charm. Ortho doc. says just more time.... well, haven't ran since April, nor rode the MX since then either. Painfull just to try and kick it over. Obviously haven't even been on bike (04 YZ450F) or running... walking the dog's about enough! Just simply currious if anyone else has ever had same... and just how long it took to heel? Any tips for mobilizing ? This just is not fun.... Overall, your full recovery ? or did this impact your off-road / MX riding ? Appreciate the thoughts.... and share your pain. (more painfull just not being able to ride all year). Oh well, back to painting the house !! up/down ladder not helping.. but hell it's not going to paint itself. Later...
  3. Ditto on the 4spd... which personally just love. It's comes down to choice GrayRacer is pure expert on these year, and the best info. out there (period). Only comment is make sure your getting something of value. Sounds like your 250 may be more up-to-date than the stock 450, and you didn't mention hr.'s, history, usage, etc. on this 04 YZ450F ? Yet, the 06's are a very Nice bike as well... and now 6 yrs. old.. should find plenty for a nice (fair) price. I'f you like a comparison, well: Purch. my 04 in Spring of 2010, w/ less than 30 hrs. & all stock (orig. everything). First thing I did was get in and check the valves & matched up w/ statement. Paid $2300, and litterally bought a new air filter, better grips and levers, and put about another 30-40 hrs. + oil changes. Now just down to doing full updates.. from tires last year, then this spring: New sprock's, chain, front forks seals, linkage seals and grease..., exhaust, about everything except the motor and frame and rims. So far, my valves and injection are TOP notch.. no change. Runs in Midwest, and rolls over always by 2nd kick.. I'm 180 (was 170 lb. while riding) at 5'-8" and should really lower a bit (for me). Launches my rear, and even after a couple years and the time, it's a bike I don't get tired (bored) of. It litterally keeps me "on my toes" to keep tamed. Got nice hours this past winter (min. to No snow), yet this spring things started to show their age.. so still working on maint. and service needs. Researched 426's, and looked at a couple older before really holding out for the 04 YZ450F because of the 4spd. and overall +++ remarks on this & the 05's, both when New and ownership info. Comes down to value of your's.... getting the 04 may just be getting you back to needed upgrades... maybe selling your 250 and holding out for the best value on an 06... yet, honestly no way I'll part w/ my 2004 YZ450F... it's been a fair purchase at the time that's still got plenty of hours (once I get a front fork issue solved). Just comes down to your $.... sadly.. it's what makes us spend it. Good luck
  4. GrayRacer, Greatly appreciate reply & remarks. Your Correct in the last statement.... excactly what happened. Excuse delay.... working on house repaint project as well (rather ride). Did purchase in 2010 used.. yet under 30 hr.'s all stock and very mint. If anyone's bent the forks, it was me. Now around 60 hr.'s, and orig. seals and oil, finally started to leak when compressed on trailer this spring... and quick ride proved fact. Did hit a couple small jumps then trailered it up, so Damn.. hope that's not the cause. Actually did as you mentioned in first paragraph, had wife hold bike while I pushed up on the forks from bottom (suggestion to push any air out). Oil set at 122 mm ht. (manual 125 mm and range up to 115). All hand compressions and return felt great, smooth, and returned smoothly as mentioned (and pinch bolts set to torque). All went smooth... yet should say.. once back on bike and walked around garage forcing the front brake also "seamed" like the spring was making noise... "binding" if you will in the tube. Think I should take Marv02's advise... and tear down again and really check the tubes. Didn't rotate in a block, yet they litterly look like new. Maybe I did bend a tube... yet if so, nothing obvious. They look new, W/O any issues till the leak began. Hope my quick pre-failed run didn't bend.. So, assume I'll need to purchase "another" set of seals ? Also, and remarks on how "hard" the internal seals are to be driven down? Purhased a M.P. driver, and Tusk seals first go-around, and "really" studied the site to do this D.Y.I. Sorry... new territory in this area yet bent on getting it done myself and "right". Big realization that the forks are an area often overlooked... Should have dropped and "at least" changed the oil when purchased. Well, back to the house project for now.
  5. Bump..... and Big Question regarding rebound (or lack thereof). After VERY carefull study, finally replaced fork seals on my 2004 YZ450F and changed the fork oil as well. Took plenty of time... over half day... flushing w/ mineral spirits and replaced w/ Maxima 85-150 (5 Wt.). Litterally did everything right... meas. down to 125mm, and rebound and shocks were compressing as expected and everything "seamed" great. Then mount tire, set brake, and walk bike around garage just jumping on brake..... NOW, after about 10 times the forks are ROCK solid w/o any true rebound. Lower clamp NOT overtight, and originally did feal great. Pulled off @ 11 clicks in, then when orig. set at 6... bounced around garage then clicked up to 8. Then after a couple times... noticed NO rebound so have backed out dampening all the way, and even releived valve pressure. Honestly at a lost... they "were" great.... and while first time performing task, and dampening rod, spring, tubes look like new... so what the %#*& did I do wrong now (any # of key points)? Should I waste the time and ride to maybe work out... yet seams like would damage at this point. Really appreciate any thoughts. Thanks, in advance.
  6. Have an 04 w/ about 60 hr.'s, all stock & no suspension mod.'s & picked up in 09 w/ < 30 hr.'s. Front down getting ready to replace front fork seals... yet Have a bigger ? about "Rear Suspension" that's bugging me, so here goes. Replaced Chain & Sprocks last mo., and like a dumb a**, forgot to check the swingarm for play (per Manual) being the up/down, side/side diagram example (forget page, in garage / somewhere ?). Yet, when just walking bike around (oh.. you've never ran out of gas ? and sooo pissed), if I "throw" / lung the bike foreward, I clearly feel "play" in the suspension. Orig. thought it was the stem, yet when replaced tires last fall... perfect in every way (well, except for fork seal now). Yet, NO way it's the front... it's sound / smooth / snug as can be! Getting more noticable last fall, so question is simply thoughts relative to issue being "Swing Arm bushings & seals", or more the Rear shock ? Seams best just to go pull rear and check.... yet thought to ask knowledge base for any advise !! I'd just like to order everything needed for rear along w/ the front seals / oil, yet something never tore into... so have been lurking around for tips. Appreciate any ?'s.
  7. Just for thread ref. To keep costs down ($80 total), just ended up going with Steel Sprockets (Primary Drive) @ 14/47 ratio per GrayRacer suggestion. Used a PD XTS 14T (really like) for drive and a (heavy as *%#) 47T on the rear. Only wish P.D. made a rear Steel similar to the black XTS front for an 04 YZ450. Comb. calc.'ed to a 112 Link chain... and fit perfect... again a Primary Drive RDO O-Ring. There's another great thread found on YZ gearing, with alot of other remarks / ideas, that had orig. missed. Given older bike, likely no real interest... yet I really like this 4spd. so maybe someone else will find info. of interest. Anyhow, Ran up&down street this a.m. to check, and did notice (a bit ?) + range in ea. band, yet honestly hard to really tell w/ just one less tooth from stock / till actually run in dirt, etc. Yet, did seam to "increase" the gear range as mentioned, & still being able to stand it up. Still should invest in a FlyWhl. Wght. down the road..... YET Sadly, after street run, trailered up to only find fork seal leaking (running) down fork when compressed (tied down), so onto next project.
  8. Racer Gray... Of anyone that I hoped would reply... greatly appreciate. Actually, right after I wrote up last night, went back in garage and stared at my dismall collection of tools.... ah... a simple swivel just may do the trick. Worked great.... so deep plug socket + swivel + 3" ext. worked perfectly. Was all ready to ride today...... ran up-down street this a.m. to check new sprok's and chain, then relieved air in forks then tied down & off to ride ONLY to get to riding area and NOW one of my front forks (when compressed) is running out fluid (looked like a mini-BP spill in my trailer rail). So.... onto next project. Sure I'll have some ?'s in another thread on this one.... Back on now looking for some Front Fork seal tips. Again, greatly appreciate reply... and ++ your info. on other threads I used for some gearing change / suggestions. Geoff T. I
  9. Bump.... PLEASE ? Bought an Iridium plug, and poof... tank's off. Yet how on earth are ya getting a deep well (plug) socket and even one of the 3" extensions in the head well ? The alignment of frame and plug well lines right up, can't seam to get enough angle to get socket and even one extension in to access the plug. Any trick / suggestion would be greatly appreciated !! Or, Anyone have a pic. or part number regarding the spark plug tool mentioned ? Put on new sprocks & chain, and some maint., so thought this would be no problem to access w/ tank off.. yet lines right up w/ frame and honestly don't get the "ease" of access. For anyone simply looking at this thread regarding the 2004 YZ450F spark plug and tank removal.... Also, anyone thinking taking the tank off is sooooo easy. Compare to any, FIRST... close your fuel valve and run bike till it dies. Poof, no gas in line. Remove the line from the CARB elbow. No need to pinch line / valves closed. Pull plastic / seat / and unbolt tank & U-clip from where seat ends, then just lift tank off frame and set aside. Same amount of time this took to type. If ONLY I could master "access" downn into the head cover >>>>
  10. Just bumping this up, looking for 3 simple suggestions. Have an 04 that's ready for new Rear Sprock and New Chain. Spent litterally HOURS the other night looking over gearing ideas, where I need to take some torque out of that initial punch like GrayRacer prev. mentioned. Just looking to tame a bit, so the 14/47 seams a start, yet also takes me down to 112L Chain, where a 15/47 keeps the 114L. At my 175 lb / 165 summer target, not the greatest rider and need help. I know a weighted F.W. will help, yet time to change sprocks & chain so would ask for anyone who's HAD or still HAS this 4spd on just some quick ?ones: Your RATIO: vs. the stock 14/48, and "please" include your chain Link(s). (Like the idea of swapping, yet would like to do so in a combo that keeps the same chain L.) Your weight: (here on Earth and in LBs, please) Your level: (Novice/Basic, Good/Semi Aggressive, Agressive/Seasoned, Top10%-don't reply) Riding Style for Gearing: (H.S., Tight Trail / Enduros, MX / Track, Open Trail / Desert) Back riding after always owning a Dual Sport for years (couple decades), and never really had a true MX bike. For me on MX/Track, I find the bike too torqued (at times) and feel I need to tame for better control out of corners. Yet the stock gearing, I'm shifting too much and can't always keep the RMP up to stay in 2nd on the tights before launching / jump. So, down to First where it wants to jump from me coming out. After having now a couple years, control really feels great in 2/3. Rest of power curve always (usually) feels good where first is so short lived or may not venture, so also makes me ? if going "higher" is actually right for me? See others have the same hight issue (at 5'8"), I'm tippy toed and not much on lowering options for this bike. Fair jumps for age, and some feel to bottom out, yet overall I'd say landings (now) have smoothed out after getting the forks and rear set-up better. Really allot of +++ on this year made me search and finally find a low hour / trail use only stock one for the right $'s, so just trying to find some more "comparable" rider states on gearing for my 04 YZ450. Thanks, in advance ! Geoff T.
  11. KX250Fmotoracer: Hey, Appreciate reply and ref. to ±40 PSI.... just made sense yet 1st swap by self and thought ±2x would do the trick. At $35 ea. for service to mount, was hell bent on D.I.Y. Really appreciate ref. for intital seating. Thanks again ! number9: Dito on the "skinner" side... noticed right off, & even wife said the same when stacked under exist. to remove old tire (no stand). The lip just really was nothing, not even compared to it's twin for the Front (90/90-21) which was more defined. As they say, just seamed ODD being the stated = to a 110/90. Review: Overall, these Mich. XC's are a NICE (ok, Great) improvement! Ran tonight for about 45min., and hooked-up great out the corners. Really noticed on landings (at 45, gravity not best freind), just a nicer cushion. As for the Sand (my worst enemy), cut like a knife.. ran true to line.. wow. Felt sooo much more in control. For those that DON'T expect the width of the 110/90's, these 130/70's are NICE. Replaced Dunlop D739's... as a novice MX rider (prev. Dual sport Dunlop only fan for 25yrs), these Michelin S12 XC's were the second best mid-life expense (first being an MX bike always wanted). Can't compare much else... yet a great swap !! that seamed to better fit riding terrain and soften up rubber vs. the D739's. +, they're NEW !!
  12. Happen to see post regarding tire comp., and wondered if anyone has some gen. experience w/ switch. Had 110/90 rear on YZ450, and happen to see the Michelin's same size ref., so bought a set of S12-XC's and (at moment), am using same tube 110/90. So, made the Rear swap, yet Tire just does NOT seam to seat the same on rim (stock Xcel's) as the 110/90, which (seems) to have a more recessed lip for bead. Now mounted, If I run the 2 small tire lines above rim (rim lines above bead), get a couple spots where the lines fall "below" the rim edge (one on ea. side of tire), or what I would call a dip where the tube is not filling out the tire into rim (using a hand pump). Just curious if anyones made the switch, and Tube size used ?? Ran up to 25 psi to get tire to seat, then backed down to reg. Also, the rim lines dip is NOT the same on each side of tire, so would expect the tube may be binding ?? Prev. tube from 110/90 just seams to big for this 130/70, yet first time swapping size, and don't really see any other ref. to this. Other thread on the tube for this size, really NOT much info. Posting for any ?'s, before I go and re-mount and run to actually see. Last kicker... While tires obv. "softer" than prev. Dunlop, the 15psi called for also just feels like nothing in ?? ..... which would also make me ? a 110/90 tube should be used, yet since they're =, they "should" !! Any thought's....??? Thanks... Geoff T. 04 YZ450