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About Rearwheelin

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  1. Rearwheelin

    Tire balls vs bib mousse

    no tape over the rim lock . You have to be able to push the rim locks in so it doesn't work for me ! I run motion pro rim locks but there are much better out there !
  2. Rearwheelin

    Tire balls vs bib mousse

    the tube saddle sounds like a good idea . I've been using gorilla tape and letting the locks go up against the tube with no issues. The double rim lock is important..... I had a friend that tried the tubes I run but went against my advise of adding a second rim lock and kept twisting his valve stem and getting flats on his TE501. He's a bib guy now
  3. Rearwheelin

    Tire balls vs bib mousse

  4. Rearwheelin

    Tire balls vs bib mousse

    opposite side of the original
  5. Rearwheelin

    Tire balls vs bib mousse

    I wheelied over a concrete square edge at 50 and bent a rim knocking 4 spokes loose , road another 100 miles like that and no flat with Michelin 4mm tubes . Laced a new rim up and tube was fine . I won't run any other HD tube
  6. Rearwheelin

    Bent sub frame?

    I bent mine 2 1/2 years ago . You can kick them back into shape while there on the bike .
  7. Rearwheelin

    Tire balls vs bib mousse

    Not trying to be a ass hat but has everyone her tried Michelin 4mm tubes and double rim locks ? My tires get sliced on rocks all the time so I am super leery of tubliss . Every time I change a tire on the rear I have a spot that looks like it would have compromised a tubliss system and now after reading front tire issues with knobs tearing there's no way I'm going to try it in the front , I like not being limited on tire selection due to what holds up . I don't have any traction issues at all and have never had a failure with my setup. My tires of choice : front AT81 , rear maxis Desert IT 120/100/18, Michelin 4mm tubes, double rim locks front and rear, 6-10 psi depending on terrain ..... If I were to go with any other it would be a mouse , but with a short service life I don't ride enough to make it worth it so I'm sticking with what works great for me . I have plenty that tell me how great tubliss is but the writing is on the wall for me
  8. Are you speaking about your crank seal only ? Or the entire crank assembly?
  9. I think my problem started when the crank bearings started getting out of spec. I've pulled the crank gear and there is play front to forward play and side to side , with and whiteout crank gear.
  10. the bike was new I changed it every ride or every other ride with 15-50 MotorX as the maintenance book recommended, never did I go over 10 hrs on the trany fluid . Only recently (last 3 changes did I switch to 80w maxima. I'm fairly easy on my clutch and gears so the oil always came out looking pretty good , even the oil that was left this last time. I do have 2 KOM races on this bike and mostly trail ride . I did get this bike pretty hot back in 2014 . Bike probably has about 100hrs on it . But to answer how long I went on the previous gear oil about 10-12 hrs
  11. Very greatfull for all 3 of your help ! I believe this issue is now thoroughly covered ! Thanks a ton !
  12. The last couple rides my bike 2013 XC-W300 has been running rich / smoking more than usual . Today I drained out 320cc from the gear box , I always measure 700cc when filling. I normally don't measure what I drain but I could tell not enough dumped. The oil I drained did not smell like fuel but as it should and was fairly clean with very little metal on the drain plug magnet . I'm the original owner and keep my bike serviced very well . Recently I got fed up with jetting my stock carb and bought an Electron carb (installed today and tested , much better but still smokes a lot...lol)..... I have been running 60:1 MotorX and 91 pump gas from day 1....Thanks for your comments in advance!
  13. Rearwheelin

    Pipe Guard

    CF smashes on square rocks
  14. Rearwheelin

    Pipe Guard

    There is only one in my book and that's a Hyde pipe and frame one piece guarde . Way better than anything else in my opinion