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About dg400sm

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  1. is it a decel back fire or popping,they are not the same,a backfire is a rich condition,sounds like a gunshot
  2. after months of trying to jet my kdx220 correctly but just couldn't do it i decided to pull out the reed cage and have a look, what i saw was the previous owner has fitted boyesen 607 reeds but they don't fit properly and there is small gaps in the corners. i put in an old set of factory reeds which were badly warped but still ran much better than the 607 reeds with gaps. you can see the gaps in the corners and the other photos show how much shorter they are than the factory reeds. any body ever seen anything like this? i did think about slotting the holes but they would need to be slotted about 2mm and not enough meat in the reed to do that.also the 607 reeds have much bigger radius which makes the fit even worse
  3. it was on the bike when i bought it with the rb mod already done. i switched out the jets that were in it to genuine keihin jets just to make fault finding a little easier
  4. you might be right,i measured the slide cutaway today and it is much bigger than a number 5 so the rb mod must have been done to the slide too,now i have no ideas,guess i either check for other sources to the problem or borrow/buy a new carb
  5. i replaced the jet block o ring last week,i should have mentioned that as i know its a common problem that will be mentioned. i've tried running the float height at 19mm all the way up to 23.5mm and to be honest it ran best at 23.5mm and that is with a number 35 pilot jet .ive also checked the fuel level using the clear tube method and at 20mm float height the fuel level is level with the gasket mating service i will check if the needle jet tube is worn but i doubt it given that its a new carb although i dare say its a chinese knock off but with genuine keihin jets. i find the jd blue needle gives the best throttle response but the jd red neeedle is the only needle that will stop it running so rich at idle. i run the premix at 35:1. i have decarbonised the exhaust and muffler and made sure there is no leaks, the previous owner sold it because he couldn't get it running right and i am struggling to do the same,i also own a drz400 with a wideband sensor so i am no stranger to correct AFR's. i live in the north of thailand where the weather is 35 celsius,80 percent humidity and altitude about 3000ft. i might contact ron black at rb mods and see if i can give me any info on the slide,the way i understand it is the slide is effective from idle to 1/4 throttle. from all the things i have done the mixture screw can be wound all the way out and the bike still does not stall but it does still with less that 1.5 turns
  6. i have a kdx220 with a pwk 36mm carb and rb mod already done. no matter how much try to jet this thing its always running rich at idle.(i live in the north of thailand where it is always hot and humid and i run the bike at about 3000ft) it has a number 5 slide and the consensus seems to be a number 6 would lean it out. given that slides are expensive has anybody ever modded a number 5 slide to match a number 6 or could anybody at least tell me how the slides are measured so i can work it out. cheers
  7. all modern mx bikes have leaking fork seals when the mud dries out and goes hard
  8. with all due respect it sounds like you are very new to drz's and carburetors in general, i would hold off on any purchases until you have spent some time learning and researching,i know labor costs in australia are high so sometimes it works out better just buying a new item but for most drz owners we get alot of satisfaction on learning about what we have and doing the work ourselves
  9. i went through the motarding process on my wr450 using the cbr250rr wheels, i know its not a drz400 but the process is the same i got all my spacers and adapters made here in thailand as labour costs in australia are ridiculously expensive. i got a disc adpater made up and used a factory gsxr100 brake rotor which is 310mm . if you need anything made up let me know and i could ship it to you
  10. thats a very difficult question to answer as it doesn't take into account temperature and humidity,i understand what you are saying about overly rich jetting guides as you get closer to the equator things start changing. i would go to a shop with a gas analyser and get some base AFR's for your bike,then you can determine how rich it is running. if it is running rich now do use E10 91 gasohol,this gives the leanest burn. do you already have the airbox cut to 3x3? if its any help i live in northern thailand which is hot and humid,i run a 145 main jet,dxp needle clip 2 and 45 pilot jet
  11. yes looks like the wrong lines,carbs don't usually have black overflow lines
  12. cheers guys. think i will pull out the emulsion tube/jet needle and check that as suggested, as far as i can see there really itsn't much leaner in needles than a dxp so there must be something else at fault
  13. 3x3 opening. pilot air is a 105 main air is 200. yes second clip from the top. i thought D was leaner than E but thats why i asked for advice as my knowledge on needles is not great. could you confirm by looking at the needle chart,maybe i am reading it wrong. EMP was unusable at 1/8th with AFR's in the mid 15's. i thought 12.6 was a good number for E10 given maximum power is at 12.2 ? i was wondering why on thumpertalk is the pilot air jet always stated as #100. this is a variable jet like any other and i've noticed other websites from other bikes play with this jet. i tried a 42 pilot jet but was loo lean,45 seems too rich so would it be worth trying a 42 pilot with a 75 pilot air jet. carb is slant FCR from a wr400. float level is set at 9mm but good point on the worn needle jet, i forgot to check that my AFR's are usually taken at about 3000ft, temps at around 35 celsius, humidity is usually high around 80 percent although thats not the case now as its winter here in thailand
  14. i'm in northern thailand.
  15. not sure if this is the right place to post but thought i would ask the question as there is so little information about this on the internet. i have bought a kdx220 and the jetting is way off. there is no information on the internet for jetting this close to the equator so decided to weld a bung in the pipe to try my wideband o2 sensor. does anybody have any experience with doing this and what kind of AFR's should i be tuning for,is it the same 12.7 as a 4 stroke