Rider M14

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About Rider M14

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  1. Yes, I believe this to be true. My experience is with a buddies 3.9 gal Clark tank in a drz400s, and one of the one way breather valves. It was a very hot day, we were on some tight singletrack and we we're both hot enough to boil the gas. His bike stopped running. It would run for about 50 feet then die. I pulled up next to him and noticed his petcock was sitting way farther outboard than usual. Upon further inspection we discovered the tank was actually splayed out to the left and right to the point that the semi circular brackets that usually hold the tank onto the rubber tank mounts weren't even making contact with the rubber mounts. I foolishly unscrewed the cap and the pressure blew my hand holding the cap quite noticeably upward. Scared the crap out of me. The hose didn't blow off the cap, there was no escape for the pressure until the cap was removed. I had de gutted my valve so I didn't have a problem. The valve is now somewhere in the woods, discarded as rubbish by my buddy. I believe we came close to burning down his bike and maybe the forest that day. Lesson learned. RM14
  2. If you use one of those and you boil your gas it will pressurize the tank. I use just a piece of hose 2" long. RM14
  3. I've never done a start. 54 yr old fat woods rider. .2968 avg. RM14
  4. Little stony wasn't closed last weekend. Conditions are awesome, no snow. RM14
  5. Here's what I ended up with. I had to buy a Clark tank mounting "horseshoe" or tank mount. It will be here next week. I took one off of the Clark 3.9 gal tank for now. Pretty much a hack job but it will work and I had all the materials already, except the horseshoes. RM14
  6. Thanks for the pics of the fan fitment. Looks just barely too tight for the stock fan. I just got the "E" tank in the mail and have begun the mounting process. Right side is easy peasy. Rear is not a big deal but I need to find something to fit between the tank and frame to prevent rubbing. The left side is a bit more tricky. I haven't started yet but I'm thinking maybe a bracket that fastens to the existing stock bracket mounting holes, runs up into the frame channel and has a "C" bracket like the ones on a stock "S" tank. I'd use the rubber puck on the left side and the "C" bracket would capture it just like on the stock "S" set up. Does anybody have any simpler and easier methods? RM14
  7. WOW! That IMS tank looks like it a ton lower than the stock "E" tank. How does the fan from china hold up to water and mud? Is it designed to be on a bike or is it a computer fan? RM14
  8. Thanks a ton ohiodrz400sm. Color is much less of a concern, I just need to keep the fan. There are a few used stock "E" tanks on ebay (yellow). Looks like that's my best bet. RM14
  9. Is this true for the IMS and the stock "E" tank? Or just the stock "E" tank? Thanks again and Happy New Year!
  10. Thanks so much for replying. I have been using a Clark 3.9gal tank. I just put the stock s tank on for a test ride and I like it way better for the ability to get body weight more forward and lighter weight. Both are quite noticeable. Id prefer to get the IMS in the natural color so I can see the fuel level. I have a white DRZ and the stock e tank seems to be only yellow. Either way I'm looking to get as much room as possible and keeping the weight as low on the bike as possible. Do you know if the fan is usable with the IMS tank? Thanks again! RM14
  11. Can you keep the fan in place when using a stock E tank? It seems you can't with the IMS 2.6 gal E tank. I'm looking to get a smaller tank but need the fan for tight singletrack.
  12. Thanks for your help. Parts are ordered, now we wait. Should be here Tuesday. Rm14
  13. Thanks Noble, that's what I was thinking but wasn't sure. I will do the locktite fixes and barely tighten the nut. Will also order extra nuts and washers. Would you care to expand on the alternate method? Rider M-14
  14. I have a 2011 DRZ400s. Lately I've noticed that the bike is harder to push in neutral than normal. The counter shaft sprocket without a chain on is stiff but spins more easily when I loosen the nut. I have done the locktite fix on the sprocket/nut and have never found a loose nut upon inspection. Is the fact that it spins more freely when the nut is loose a sign that the second gear bushing is failing? Or is it normal for the sprocket to be a bit stiffer when the nut is tight. (I don't think so) No oil is leaking past the seal at all. Is there anything I can do to extend the time until I have to split the cases to fix the bushing. Like leave the nut a bit looser than usual? I'm looking for advise from people more experienced with this than I am. Thank you for any help and advise. Rider M-14
  15. California

    How about voting ballots in multiple languages. This state is such a lost cause. RM14