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About BlackCR25098

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  1. BlackCR25098

    Is a 2004 CR 250 a good model?

    The 02-07 is as good as it got for CR250's, specifically where it matters most. Frame design/handling and suspension. Those motors are GOOD motors but there are minuscule debates about the bottom end power & power-band characteristics. Yet they make the highest hp #'s and have a ton of potential. Any one 02-07 is a great bike. Oh and also the carburetor (Mikuni TMX) that came on those was junk just in it's overall design. The PWK is a huge upgrade for those motors. The Mikuni was finicky to jet because of it's design, but it will have you rolling and having a ton of fun anyway. The PWK is just a heads up mod for down the road that makes all the difference.
  2. BlackCR25098

    Post pics of your CR's

    In the first picture set I was convinced that it was rhino-lined. Not sure why, but it just looked heavily textured like rhino line for sure? This second set shows it is actually nice and smooth powder! This is NOT helping me save $ on my 2003 build. I absolutely love the look. How much did it cost roughly? I have a good powder-coat shop downtown, but I just worry about how long it would really last? Especially on the high friction spots like lower frame where your boots are? I ate up a good thick grip tape in 20 minutes when I tried to install some on my 98 frame...Anyway, looks absolutely sick. I really want to do the same although my idea was for the swingarm, fork tubes, cradle to use that new really thick 3D carbon fiber vinyl. Looks absolutely incredible. Maybe then cover it with a thick general cover like graphic material. Then just buy the carbon fiber lower frame covers and leave the upper frame un-covered/polished..Also, are those the works connection radiator supports and you just had them coated?? Again, she has so much potential. The shock spring, wheels, hubs, etc. just need some attention now and that thing will be incredible.
  3. BlackCR25098

    Post pics of your CR's

    Well you're right. It doesn't "require" any welding if you want to half a$$ it... The swing arm pivot bolt fit directly through the cases with 98' spacers. The bottom motor mount bolt (10mm) fit right in But the front motor mount tab did not line up. The tab needed to be rounded out forward and down a bit. I wanted to do as minimal rounding as possible. The "MXbonz" headstay kit I figured wouldn't work because he has you round the bottom and front MM tabs. After talking with him on the phone a bit I absolutely did not want to buy his headstay kit (although it is a nice billet finish) but what he said irked me pretty bad. See the problem is aluminum (these bottom and forward motor mount tabs) do NOT have any clamping force like that of the steel frames, so any tiny gaps between the tab itself and the motor must be shimmed by using a feeler gauge. My fabricator hooked me up with some laminated aluminum shims you can trim with a razor blade. If you do not do this, the tabs will crack under torque. The mxbonz fellow said I didn't need to do this step lol Another big problem I see so many do is they will round out just the front or both front and bottom tabs WITHOUT fill welding the gap of the rounded hole. They'll simply install a bigger washer with the bolt to HIDE the gaps I don't care what anyone says. These motors are under so much pressure from jumps and torque of the motor, eventually that lateral play from rounding has to become a problem or contribute to a tab crack.... I was lucky enough to find a quality fabricator/air craft mechanic who builds rock crawlers. He made me custom head hanger plates from steel, fill welded the front motor mount tabs and re-drilled them to the exact bolt measurements on each side (because those 10mm motor mount bolts are tapered slightly. Bigger on the bolt head end, and slightly smaller on the thread/nut side. He also made a custom bracket for my ignition under the left side frame spar to get it some air and not directly behind radiators, and he also shimmed the motor mount tabs all for $70. So my point is, there are infinite routes to mounting a HPP cr250 motor into a gen3 frame. You just have to decide if you want to do a quality job or not. Or jig rig it up!! I say it does require tig welding for anyone who wants to do a good job, but at least it is minimal. Not like the CRF frame conversion where you have to hack the frame cradle and form a new one. Check the final product pictures on the last page or 2.
  4. BlackCR25098

    best CR250 02-07?

    Actually what's weird is none....My fabricator shimmed the forward most mount, but I know before I took it in the bottom had a little gap. He said he did not shim the bottom because he didn't see any gap (which is saying something) but gave me some extra laminated aluminum shims. Took the paper thin one and could NOT fit it between the tabs at any angle. Torqued the motor mounts down front shimmed, bottom not.. NO cracking, so I said yup..done. Plus he would not lie or say something like that. If there was an insufficient gap the aluminum would have alerted it while tightening! Just saying though if you have a HPP motor with the pivot bolt in that rear case IS too close to the shock spring (stock) or aftermarket (many times they're same size) just because it barely clears does not mean Also on the shock spring and rear cases. I have a Factory connection red shock spring and it clears the motor yes, but it sure as hell would not clear 1 or any group of carb vent hoses. They've gotten stuck in the center before just moving it around on the stand. In a fast section it would rip them all off without hesitation. May want to check that. It's not something most builders pick up on until they wonder why they're bike died out because the carb can't breathe. Just a FYI on the rear case for 250 2 stroke it is 3mm MAX and 500 is 6mm. So not so much about the spring, but the hoses and all of it working together under high stress.
  5. BlackCR25098

    Post pics of your CR's

    Just got my conversion bike back from my fabricator: He did all this for ONLY $70!!! Like it was meant to be... -Front mm tabs fill welded, strengthened, and re-drilled. -All mm tabs shimmed with laminated aluminum shims -Custom slotted head hanger plates made and bent from steel (this alone is worth $100) -Custom Ignition coil bracket fabbed to relocate it from between hot radiators and under left frame spar more into the wind. 2003 chassis/suspension & 98 motor/CDI/ignition: 38mm PWK Airstriker, 00' CR intake AND air boot perfect fit. 01 radiators perfect fit, 01 pc pipe & 03 pc silencer perfect fit to 98 cylinder and all 03 OEM mounts, Factory Connection valved forks and shock spring luckily set up for my exact weight (165lbs.), Rear case relieved to clear carb vent hoses between shock, ALL new All Balls Bearings throughout. I actually was able to make a little $ building this bike selling my entire 98 chassis and scoring a CRF250 chassis for $50 I made about $200 on, and it has been the ultimate experience. I even got to hand pick 98/03 and even some CRF parts to use and keep as backups (both calipers, exhaust, cdi's, and an arsenal of hardware both new and used) When I started, I did not even know how to pull my swingarm pivot bolt and now I've built my own taylor made bike that truly is "like new", so yea..I recommend this to anyone who prefers the HPP motors combined with the best chassis!! I COULD go out and start it up today, but still gotta do linkage bearings and finish relieving the rear cases, and installing new rear caliper piston, seals, and of course bleed the rear caliper and I'm DONE and
  6. BlackCR25098

    best CR250 02-07?

    The HPP motor/gen3 chassis conversion truly is an overnight conversion. Just like others have said just like there are infinite variables to bike/motor preference and experience, the same goes for each conversion. Depends on condition and price of the chassis you buy. I paid $700 for a complete 2003 that had everything but motor. Stripped it to bare frame and built it up with all new bearings. It also has good factory connection valved suspension and rear spring that just so happened to be set for my weight (150-170lbs.) I'm 165lbs. I ended up actually making $$$ (not much about $100) through parting my 98' chassis. I also scored a complete 04' CRF250 chassis for $50 I sold for around $250, so that was huge. Point is, this truly is an overnight conversion as far as fitting the motor is concerned, although having a 00 or 01 complete chassis to pull parts from is truly ideal as this conversion demands a few 00 or 01 parts no matter which motor you use 92-01. Specs on my 03 build: -1998 motor/ Ignition system & 38mm PWK carb 00-01 parts needed for perfect fit: -01 radiators (Dimensionally identical to the 03 rads, except the motor return line on the 01 clears the powervalve cover, and is an absolute perfect substitute) -01 Pro Circuit Pipe but 03' Pro Circuit silencer (bolts right up to all 03 OEM exhaust brackets) -00' both reed intake boot AND air intake boot (fixes the 02-03 airbox sealing issue by using the superior older air boot, plus it fits the bike like or better than OEM and is the boots that are made for the 38mm PWK. Clears shock without heat. The intake boot really makes all the difference because it angles the carb AWAY from the rear shock to the perfect position, and the airboot clears without even needing heating.) -00-01 CDI box ignition (97-01 motors are digital and compatible and will NOT require stator flywheel swap) This is optional, but preferred for 2 reasons: 1. The timing tune on the 00-01 CDI was as good as it gets for the HPP motors. 2. The 00-01 cdi/bracket bolts right up to the OEM GEN3 steering stem CDI mount. I eventually found a perfect spot for my huge 98' CDI underneath the main frame/seat crossmember (between rear shock and head stay plates) Used industrial velcro and a couple zip ties and it fits perfect, although I will be upgrading to the 00 CDI soon. Additional "small fires" that need to be put out: Not all are mandatory -Mounting CDI box older than 00-01 -Swingarm spacers (my 98' were a direct fit and the chain alignment is slam on) -Swingarm Pivot Bolt & Bottom center motor mount bolt went right in -Front motor mount tab needed to be rounded out forward and down a bit -Front right motor tab barely needed relieved as it was barely touching the motor -Ignition coil relocated from the OEM position (between radiators too hot) so I moved it under left frame spar -Headstay brackets (some say 00-01 work but not on mine they were 3mm too short) but MXBONZ makes them for $100 but you must follow his motor mounting instructions -Cases need relieve at the very rear to clear the shock spring. Not just because I run a FC spring. This is a very common and consistent issue. Just file 3mm into rear of cases, but 3mm is the MAX. This is more so you don't rip a vent hose off. Shock clears but would pinch the hell out of some vent hosing. I was lucky enough to find a aircraft mechanic/fabricator who builds rock crawlers 5 mins from me who -fill-welded, strengthened, and drilled where I rounded the front tab for a perfect fit -Shimmed the inside of the motor mount tabs (between tab and motor) with laminated aluminum shims for any acute gaps since aluminum has no clamp force and would otherwise crack. -made custom slotted head hanger plates from steel -welded a custom mount for my ignition coil under the left frame spar to get it more air and out of heat. He did this ALL for $70 and his work is impeccable. Like I said, everyone's situation is different. I was fortunate enough to be able and build a NEW bike to my exact specifications and make a little $ doing it, while gaining an infinite amount of knowledge and experience. When I started this I didn't even know how to pull out the swingarm pivot bolt...Now I've built an entire bike. YES, I'm proud lol Exhaust side front tab filled, strengthened, and re-drilled Custom Ignition coil bracket Ignition side Voila' Those are the crummy wheel/tire set. I also have an all brand new black pro wheel set from my 98' new tires, tubes, wheel, spoke, bearings. Also got to hand pick a ton of 98 and 03' parts to keep (like spare calipers, axles, igntion, exhaust, and enough new & used hardware for 4 bikes) and use as well as parts off the CRF. So yea, I recommend it for any and all reasons
  7. BlackCR25098

    best CR250 02-07?

    Yea Hawaii you hit the nail on the head there. Especially with the PWK being a direct swap. People talk about 2 strokes having "no bottom end" all the time and I've always been left confused Another thing that confuses me is when 02-07 motor guys say they love it because the power is so "consistent" and broad. This must be because it's all they know? The difference is absolutely clear. I'd be happy to ride either, but I damn sure PREFER the HPP's. For some the difference is negligible. Others like you, it damn sure is not. I ride pretty much strictly MX, but I'm slow. I use that bottom end plenty. The hydro clutch was just the cherry on top
  8. BlackCR25098

    Post pics of your CR's

    Just wanted 2000-2007 CR guys to know that the GEN5 CRF450/250 (09-12) seat covers fit the 2000-2007 CR's. I got this OEM 11' crf250 cover for nothing from a buddy. Tried to find the information earlier via google and nothing. Per usual, the CRF line has the widest variety of choices many of you would prefer. It is a little tight on the older seat, but if you have a hair dryer and a little patience, you are home free. I even added a step to it having a tighter fit with a half a bar pad, and then 2 square foams behind it tapered down so at the very rear it meets the OEM seat foam height again. Don't flame me, this is my first cover ever done. The front and rear isn't finished in the pics, but you get the idea. I love it.
  9. BlackCR25098

    best CR250 02-07?

    Bingo. Most people can't even tell the difference between the 2 motors. I know I couldn't when I first got on the 98' I think a big part of it is that we are all obviously riders, but those of us who put in as much time with a wrench as on the saddle see the obvious differences and investigate further and thus prefer 1 over the other, since they are so different. Honestly think it's a mental thing just as much too. You go to seeing the differences first hand for yourself, so you come to expect to feel them while on the saddle. Don't get me wrong they are totally different motors/ic systems yes, but the difference is not THAT major and surely not enough to be holding 99% of us back any more than the other.
  10. BlackCR25098

    Post pics of your CR's

    Cheese and crackers I want the DB graphics SO bad. I will get them one way or another. Can't decide on red, black, or white. That is one tastefully done CR
  11. BlackCR25098

    best CR250 02-07?

    Honestly when we get into which motor HPP 92-01 and RC valve 02-07 were really splitting hairs...Anyone who has ridden a good bit of MX knows that a motors peak HP and Tq + powerband characteristics are basically nothing in comparison to the suspension and chassis overall handling. If you have a 500 with a terrible handling chassis vs. a 250 with a good/great chassis, the odds are all in favor of the 250 rider given equal skill levels. This is mainly for MX but we've established the gen3 obviously as the best CR chassis/suspension. What generation motor you run beyond that is really irrelevant when it comes to making a huge impact on the MX track. It's not until you really develop your skill that the minor power tweaks and motor personalities even factor in. HPP or RC valved 250cc 2 stroke in a gen3 frame - I will never exceed the limits of this bike and that's what I'm after if I'm going to the trouble of building one taylor made. Yes sir I have. Actually a 2003 that my buddy bought which is what originally sparked my interest and was the reason behind me getting into the sport and buying my 98' shortly after. I was very impressed with the 03' motor and overall bike, but this was before I had any perspective of cracking throttle on my 98 motor. I soon realized the 03 was "twitchy" on/off the pipe and lacked in the bottom. My 98' was always so consistent and strong throughout the range. Not to mention, much more planted jetting wise. I'm not trying to say the HPP is "better" than RC valve. I am just giving my opinion on the "best CR250" which is a combo. I wanted the gen3 chassis so bad, but I've come to be mad in love with my HPP motor and doing this conversion has really allowed me to intimately investigate the 03 and fit the best of both worlds into the 1 bike on several OEM areas that were weak from the factory for 02-07's. As I've said before, the choice here is really a win/win situation IMO.
  12. BlackCR25098

    '01 CR250 Engine in '03 Frame Installation

    Just want to give HUGE props to the OP of this thread. 98 motor/2003 chassis. Couldn't have done it without your and many others help. It's still not "done" I have to take the motor back out and have the front MM tabs fill welded from where I rounded them down and forward, so the new bolt location is tight. Also have to shim the inner tabs, and have the 03 headstays fill welded on the frame mount end so I can re-drill the new spots. I'm not a fan of rounding ANY mounts out and leaving it or covering it up. There are quite a few of you in here who've done this conversion but I have not heard mention of fill welding the motor mount tabs that were rounded? Or shimming the inside of the mounts? I have 1mm+ sized gaps on both the front and bottom. No clamping force with aluminum, so can't just torque them down. They will bend and eventually crack! Just checking to make sure you guys did shim the inner motor mounts and also make up for the gap where you rounded? I used a 1998 motor, but I noticed many of you say you rounded BOTH the front forward, and the bottom up. I put my pivot bolt in, and the bottom motor mount fit. No rounding there. I just had to round the front tabs forward and down. This is why I didn't go with the MXBONZ headstays because I fear they won't reach, wasting $100 because he suggests rounding the bottom tabs UP. I wanted to do as minimal rounding as possible. In hindsight, only rounding the front forward and down gives excellent pipe clearance. Anyway here she sits as of now: Just want to say this conversion requires a TON of 2000-2001 parts to really make the fit and finish perfect: Having a GEN2 motor/chassis to pick parts from is ideal, although the parts list is nothing major - it's just much nicer I'm sure. 00-01 parts used: -01 Radiators & hoses $35 perfect fit -00 reed intake boot and air boot ( intake boot puts carb at perfect angle AWAY from shock and airboot fits perfectly) this also fixes the crappy gen3 airboot/box leak. Sealed the new boot/box with RTV hi temp silicone. -01 pro circuit pipe coated black - just what I wanted (03 pro circuit silencer fits perfect to all OEM 03' exhaust brackets) -I have rigged up my 98 CDI (huge) and doesn't fit the steering stem mount, although I found a steal on a 2000 CDI that will fit the steering stem. I just need to find/buy the cdi connector and extend the wires. There are several other small "fires" to put out on this conversion, but nothing unmanageable. Motor/mount tab fitment is #1. I bought the 01 headstays which are JUST 3mm too short. I happened to try the 03 stays which are a bit too long, so I figure it's better to have the 03's frame mount side fill welded, and then re-drill for precise fit without rounding and having gaps. May need to shim this, not sure. Also need to relieve the cases. Fact. Connection spring is touching, and would absolutely rip a carb vent hose off. Just small stuff. I'm chomping at the bit to be done and ride this beast!!!
  13. BlackCR25098

    Post pics of your CR's

    Where did you get that seat cover? I like it alot. Here's my 2003 I'm putting a 98' motor in. At the final stages of the build now and chomping at the bit to be done. Just a quick tig weld on the front mm tabs, and linkage bearings. I haven't even began to get started on cosmetics. It's gonna be black plastics with the black david bailey shrouds with red honda wing :drool:
  14. BlackCR25098

    2010 CRF450 Plastics on 02-07 CR250

    Wow thanks, never been blamed so hard for thoroughly explaining something I'm doing. Only on thumpertalk I wound up getting fed up with swapping plastics from a newer bike onto an older one. Original fitting plastics is always infinitely better than rigged up newer ones. So I decided to go for what I really wanted, and that was to put my 98 motor into a newer chassis. I'm at the final steps now. Being sure to keep it short so you're brain could fully comprehend.
  15. BlackCR25098

    Post pics of your CR's

    Same old boring pic, I know. Don't care. SOoo close.... Just waiting on Pro Circuit works pipe coated black & A few minutes of my welders time!!