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genR8r

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Posts posted by genR8r


  1. And interesting that the washing of the top of the piston is more on the right intake. I presume because the int. manifold comes in from the left side, making a slight bend into the cyl. so the heavier particals (fuel) tend to go more through the right port. And i guess the same reason if dirt and dust get sucked through the filter, that the right int. valve gets worn and is the first to need reshimming.

    Interesting observation and hypothesis  :thinking:  


  2. that isnt anything, just where the intake charge is washing it i presume .. one good long stretch winding it out and then inspecting would probably change the way the top looks .. but on the top you just generally dont want to see damage like obvious errosion or dings .. the sides of the skirt would be more telling to the over-all condition of the piston ..

    Thanks, the skirt and surface which was inspected after cleaning with Q20 and a rag, is great shape, no dings, pitting or cracks.

    My post wasn't because I"m concerned about the piston, I was hoping it would give an indication of my jetting, thinking that a rich mixture would wash the intake surface clean. I am comparing this to previous experience on some other bikes. the difference between the intake and exhaust side has never seemed this stark.


  3. That piston looks OLD, and lots of PITS in it......

     

    If that is the intake side of the piston, that is normal.

     

    The motor looks to be very rich from af ratio or from passion oil.

     

    What does the piston / ring area look like.....I'll bet there is blow by.....

    Most of that surface "pitting" came off with Q20 and a ra :thumbsup:

    The piston and rings are in great shape, the skirt has no chipping, and compression is good.

    What could be throwing you off, and  maybe you missed that line, but I went in after a leaky head gasket, maybe that has to do with some of the deposits.

    Passion oil you say?! I keep that in my side stand, not in my bike  :p


  4. Hi, I tore down the top end to inspect and to replace a leaky head gasket. Everything seems good up there, no concerns over cylinder or piston wear and the cams and valve gaps are all good. 

    I have a question though on "reading" a piston. 

    Right between the intake valve cut aways on the piston, there's a very sparsely fouled area compared to the rest of the piston. I have done top end rebuilds before, but this seems a little different from anything I've seen before. 
    Is there any assumption to be made (ie. jetting too lean) or does this seem perfectly normal? 

    Constructive feedback appreciated. 

     

    EDIT: I put this here as I believe this is jetting related. 

    IMG_20150815_142644.jpg


  5. Hi, I tore down the top end to inspect and to replace a leaky head gasket. Everything seems good up there, no concerns over cylinder or piston wear and the cams and valve gaps are all good.

    I have a question though on "reading" a piston.

    Right between the intake valve cut aways on the piston, there's a very sparsely fouled area compared to the rest of the piston. I have done top end rebuilds before, but this seems a little different from anything I've seen before.

    Is there any assumption to be made (ie. jetting too lean) or does this seem perfectly normal?

    Constructive feedback appreciated.


  6. Hi guys, 

     

    I'm wanting to bin my stock exhaust system on my DRZ400sm '09. I had a mate with a drz400e that had a DEP S3 exhaust he gave to me. Now i found out that the pipe diameters between the SM and E are different, my question is would a E header fit on a SM bike. Are they both got the same diameter at the engine exhaust point.

     

    I'm aware that the muffler section wont line up with the mounting point on the frame, but i'll be able to make a link to sure up the difference. 

    Pairing the muffler to an E header pipe will fit the head just fine, and mounts fine at the rear most mounting, but mine didn't line up where it mounts to the SM passenger foot pegs. No biggy, I just made an adapter plate from some scrap metal.

    Remember to also rejet the carb and do the 3x3 air box mod if you haven't already done it, else you'll be running way lean and it wont reach full potential.

     

    EDIT: There is a very healthy DRZ400 specific section here on TT, you'll get PLENTY of help and replies there.


  7. I would start with seeing if the bulb is burned out.

    Thanks, I should have mentioned that I did check the bulb.

     

    I found the issue, the middle wire (ground) of the headlight plug had broken off in the plug connecting the headlight wiring to the loom. It wasn't obvious as it was still in place, but after inspecting all the plugs, I came across it and it was a quick fix.

    • Like 1

  8. Hi there, I ran into this problem, and will continue to troubleshoot tomorrow,but maybe someone has run into this before.

    The bike was standing for a while, and before standing the headlight worked just fine.

    Today, I got on and realised that the brights idiot light is on, but switching it to dim didn't get rid of the light. I then realised that the headlight wasn't working at all, no brights, no dim.

    I then unplugged the switchgear to see if the switch is faulty, but even with the switches unplugged, the idiot light still stayed on, but no headlight. Switch is fine.

    So long story short, headlight doesn't work, and brights idiot light stays on, regardless of the switch gear being connected or not.

    Any advice will be appreciated


  9. Alright thanks guys I think I'll order the zeta one off eBay and get a seal for it, I've driven the bike like this for 400 miles give or take and i don't think the wheels going anywhere but i find myself wiping the old grease off and regressing a lot out of fear of the bearing going bad so thanks again guys!!

    No need to replace the spacer, that works fine. Just get a seal to fit from your local bearing supplier.

    • Like 1

  10. Here's a chart comparing brands by viscosity:

    https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/

    Probably not scientific, but better then nothing.

    What oil are you using Nellisvan?

    I've read that people use Motorex 5W and BetaUSA recommends Motul 5W.

    I prefer motul where ever I can, though beta recommending motul and ktm recommending motorex is only a publicity agreement. Motul is good stuff, should we start a fork oil thread? Kidding kidding!

  11. Standard SAE rating is 2.5W but since actual viscosity varies between brands, I would choose a 'heavy' SAE 2.5 or a 'thin' SAE 5.

    And increase oil level around 130mm....... if stock springs are used.

    Thanks for that!

    The manual says 510grams,surely it would have been a ton more useful if they gave me a measurement in ml/cc and mm.

    Do I really need to know the mass index of my oil and convert it?


  12. I found a more complete manual on betamotor.com (as opposed to the one I got on betausa.com) and found the follwing:

     

    “Sachs” hydraulic upside-down fork (Ø48 mm shafts)
    Fork oil capacity: 
    spring ............................................................................................ K 4,8
    quantity ......................................................................................... 510 g
    oil level .......................................................................................150 mm
    oil type ................................................................................ FUCHS 1091 
     
    My humblest apologies

  13. I'm looking for some info on how the forks on a 2012 400 RR would be setup stock.

     

    The previous owner messed with it a lot, and despite returning to stock settings as found in the manual, I do not know if he had put heavier oil/more oil in and I have the feeling he may have put stiffer springs in.

     

    Currently the back of the bike rides lower in the rear than I like, even after bumping the preload quite a bit, and it feels like the fork isn't settling. I tend to need to pull myself forward on the bike a lot which tires me out, and also it's hard to get the front wheel to rail without pushing.

     

    A very experienced friend rode it this weekend and made the same observation.

     

    I'm gonna dump the oil and put in the stock level of the stock grade and take it from there, so if anyone knows what these numbers are, that would be great.

     

    Thanks,

    Nellis


  14. 2012 520RS

    1234 hrs

    23,455 miles

    A few valve adjustments and running the aftermarket aluminum oil pump gears. I change the oil when it gets black and air filter when it starts to clog. Motor is still running strong.

    Almost all my riding is fast desert racing and outdoor motocross. For play riding I slap a 10 paddle on the back and go to Glamis a few times a year. I'm a AA rider who rides about 20-25 hours a week.

    Whaaaat!? 23k miles on only valve adjustments, oil and filter? That's some decent haulage, mine is barely broken in then =P

    Where did you get those alu pump gears?


  15. Hi there,

    Since the Betas come with all road gear, surely some people must have removed the following that I need:

    1. Tail light (for a 2012 model but i think 210-2014 will fit), that's the plastic and light

    2. Indicator switch. Just the part that can screw off and unplug, not the whole switch cluster, but if you have the whole cluster, let me know anyways.

    3. Kickstand

    Please let me know if anyone has any of these available,

    Thanks


  16. Hey thumpers,

     

    I have been looking for info on high hour/mileage motor maintenance, and to my surprise, apart from Catfish's oil gears bombing, I haven't found any info on these motors going bad.

     

    They are pretty new motors, sure, but having been around for 4 years I was expecting at least some threads about engine wear.

     

    Please post details on your bike as I do below, so we can establish how these motors hold up in varying riding conditions.

     

    Model:

    2012 400RR

     

    Hours/Mileage:

    290 hours

    Around 7000km/4350mi

     

    Riding conditions:

    Previous owner - Rocky trails (Reason for needing a nw clutch)

    Me - Mixed trails/dual sport 90 dirt/10 road with 60mhp+ cruising 

     

    Work done:

    Valves shimmed (from zero) 10 hours ago

    New clutch pack 10 hours ago

    Oil pump gears replaced by previous owner (unknown hours at time)

     

    So far, they seem pretty bullet proof!

     

     


  17. That's really strange.  What conditions do you ride it in?

     

     I'm not very good at keeping quiet. All the info I share is from my personal experience. I have a digital temp gauge I will be installing next week to get real results of how hot these things run. I did everything to prevent overheating almost from the get go.

     

    Well admitting to the problem is the first step toward recovery :p

     

    My general riding conditions are mostly moderate speed at sea level, but we have a very humid sub tropic climate, I dont know if that contributes to the heat.

    While it does get noticably hotter than my other bikes, it doesnt seem like it spews coolant, so I assumed it is operating within the normal temperature range it was designed for.

    • Like 1
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