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P-Schrauber

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About P-Schrauber

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    Germany

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  1. P-Schrauber

    anybody use race tech spring calculator?

    Sorry for the late reply: For Enduro and MX: The static sag should be around 30-40mm (unloaded), The dynamic sag should be around 100-105mm (loaded)
  2. P-Schrauber

    anybody use race tech spring calculator?

    No would never ever use charts for choosing the spring. I check out the static and dynamic sag and get a spring that fits exactly. Compression and rebound can be set by the clickers through manual or by experience even to some chart but to get the right spring by theoretical numbers will not work proper. As I could see by the postings the chance to get the right spring with a chart is between 33-50%, that is more a guess IMHO.
  3. P-Schrauber

    Cleaning and greasing rear shock and linkages

    No the liquid doesn't have any intelligence at all the intelligence is located in the brain of the user who is applying the WD-40. If there is some "sticky" residue on the threads of the shock body that are not used that is not causing any problems and will be washed off with the time, but the grease between the gap of the nut and the thread of the shock body should remain. I mention WD-40 because it has very good cleaning abilities and do too a little bit of corrosion prevention (not much), most important is the cleaning and water displacement (why it's named Water Displacement 40'th proof when it was developed in 1953). Sadly I had to replace the Amal carbs from the Bultaco and even from the Montesa, Amal's not only have a bit of a bad reputation they also work not very efficient. To point's these work very good even better then electronic ignitions in very low rpm as they there provide a bigger spark, to high rpm electronic ignition have of course an advantage, my trials bikes can't rev more then 4500 - 6000 rpm so there is no need for replacement they would also fall apart after 5min. when running in as high rpm. To oil you might use LPS-2 to prevent corrosion, it even might work good I have no experience with that oil, as anti corrosion I can recommend ACF-40 if in need or Ballistol which is also very good it's a weapon oil but also works against bug and moscito bites is not poisioness and keeps leather from cracking too.
  4. P-Schrauber

    Cleaning and greasing rear shock and linkages

    Grease is the only stuff that will lubricate the bushings and roller bearings and will keep water away. The same with the threads of the spring mount as these are on very high stress due to the impacts of the rear suspension and the Spring and it's preload and additional load. Thus in combination with water you will have likewise easy corrosion there what is to be avoided, especially if you have lightweight aluminum body shocks and aluminum nuts. To any sag, you adjust the static and dynamic sag once not 100 times, as for the right sag the right spring has to be used, the sag argument is not valid, any excess grease can be cleaned away with WD40 which is a good cleaner for those parts as previous mentioned. See above photo of a well maintained shock now just 30 years old and a well maintained link system already 31 years old, very important if there are mounted o-rings between the bushes and the bearings to check them and in need to replace them, also look up the bearings at your swing arm axle one of the item that so little attention but need much more the people believe!
  5. P-Schrauber

    Cleaning and greasing rear shock and linkages

    It is very good that you haven't tried to clean the linkage and shock with obvious not using pressure washer where the linkage is and too where the shock is mounted. You might have pushed water inside the bearings. I now would spray some WD40 on the parts then wipe the remaining dirt off an old teeth brush would do the job too. Then take off the washers, clean them too, also wipe out with a fresh clean rag the remaining old grease. After that fill in new water resistant grease and rebuild the parts. For.cleaning shocks properly I take off the spring then spray all in with WD40 and wipe everything off with a fresh soft rag. before I rebuild the shock I usd some grease for.the threads of the Spring nut just to make sure it will.never seize to the thread of the shock body.
  6. P-Schrauber

    How often to tighten chain?

    That is a strange question? It is not a question of how often you tighten a chain it is at first the question how often do you control the chain. Here I would state on regular basis best would after every ride, if the chain has too much slack you tighten the chain, you don't tighten the chain if there is no need. The needed amount of slack is given in the bike manual. If you have e new chain the chain will lengthen a bit in the beginning then stay there for a certain time and will slowly lengthen, how much depends to chain quality which is mounted, the quality has noth9ng top do with x-Ring O-Ring or color, just with tensile force applied to chain by the motor and the yield strength possible of the steel of the chain. A low grade 420 DID chains with soft steel can just take 1610 kg of tensile force while a high grade 525 DID Chain will take up 4720 kg of tensile strength. quite a difference, also as more power and torque the bike have as more wear will occur, too how much you will maintain the chain with oils and grease. A low maintained chain with no oil can lead to a high loss of power and to wears super quick. I too recommend to exchange sprocket and chain together, it makes no sense to replace the chain and leave a worn sprocket, the worn sprocket will wear out a new chain super quick, also an old chain will wear out new sprockets super quick. If you take a normal, a X-ring or an O-ring chain is up to you all of them have to be serviced an maintained the normal chain just a bit more.
  7. P-Schrauber

    1978 TY175 overhaul

    Nice TY, I have a similar model too. How are the point's doing in the ignition, still good timing wise? Look up the oil pump and rubber lines to the carb and that these are filled with oil. Did you clean up the air filter, might be clogged? The carb set up: VM 22SS Main jet 240 is OK air jet: 2.5 pilot jet: 25 needle jet: 0-0 jet needle: 4L6 clip position: 4th groove from top throttle slide cutaway: 3.0 The gear lever might have got a hit from stones, often the case to trials bikes, here I would look up first, there is a small cap where you can look up the gear mechanism right under the sprocket, might do a try out. Cool bike, for trials riding get rid of as much as possible stuff to get the bike lighter, in original trim that bike hit nearly 100kg.
  8. P-Schrauber

    Engine Break-in: Truth, Lies, and What You Really Need to Know.

    I would have wondered if there was a technically fault in my posting. But I have to admit I had a German spellchecker on while writing n English this did harm my posting a lot.
  9. P-Schrauber

    Betor twin shock rebuild

    Then you might ask here: https://betorspain.com/de/168-trial
  10. P-Schrauber

    Betor twin shock rebuild

    Betors Shocks from the eigthies can't be rebuild. Get new ones they are not so expensive anymore and you can rebuild them too.
  11. P-Schrauber

    SWM TL 320 Trials

    No difference, the extra weight is too small and in the center of the crank shaft located to have any effect beide extra weight. The TXR has too not the weight surplus and runs fine without. All in all I like the clutch behavior now a bit better.
  12. P-Schrauber

    SWM TL 320 Trials

    Hi Ash, I did not build it, it is a used cover for an Aprilia Climber bike where the engine was parted out, where normally the water pump sits is now a plate. I will redo the cover of the former waterpump mount also use countersunk screws then. I too want to make a better plate for the cable holder, last not least I want to improve too the angle of the clutch lever arm, for this I have to shorten the cable a bit. To mount it I had to use a different nut for the crank primary sprocket to get rid of the extra flywheel weight, then make an extra pressure shaft to engage the clutch basket. These where the things that are done now, the clutch is much lighter now but will be even more when the angle is right … I have been "Busy" riding so I couldn't proceed ... A better fitment would be from an Aprilia TXR as this model has still an air cooled motor, but these are rare I have one too, here my Aprilia TXR: That bikes rides very well too:
  13. P-Schrauber

    SWM TL 320 Trials

  14. P-Schrauber

    Mountain Lion kills Mountain Biker in North Bend

    Sad that they had to shoot the cougar.
  15. P-Schrauber

    Portable fuel for dirt bike

    Fuel friend canister very sturdy (robust) comes in different sizes can be stripped to the bike or carried in the backpack. https://www.fuelfriend.de/?gclid=CjwKCAjww6XXBRByEiwAM-ZUIH-ig4zd-3KgVYaWyqTzFLjpxzrYETbwJPLRXmGNIz2HCNHv9FtYdBoCJqYQAvD_BwE Too available directly in the states: http://pistonported.com/brands/FuelFriend-by-Hunersdorff.html I carry them in the back pack, two 1,5l Jerry cans for riding in the high mountains.
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