Jump to content

MotoKirby

Members
  • Content Count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About MotoKirby

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Texas
  1. I am a very competitive person. My job instigates it and I thrive in the environment. I’ve tried harescrambles and enduros over the last 6 years and I finally came to the realization that riding is my escape from the pressure filled having to perform at a high level environment I’m in nearly every day. So ive given up on racing and just trail ride and I’m much happier. I still enjoying a good sprint on the trail with a similar paced rider though!
  2. Basically. If your riding position isn’t great the bike doesn’t want to turn like you would think it should. Some people run a ton of sag to lower the rear, an internal shim in the shock, or a longer link. All have a similar affect of bike turns better, quicker, sharper, etc.
  3. I have a 300 xcw, and bought a lightly used 15 250fx last year. I didn’t get along with it well at first. Jerky throttle, constantly runs wide if your nuts aren’t on the steering head. Power is good in midrange and top, little weak (to me) off idle and stable in the whoops. Bought a programmer and did some tuning, and upped the idle to 2100 jerky throttle mostly gone. Lowered the rear about 1/2 inch with fastway link and handling solved! Its definitely a keeper and my choice for faster harescramble or ATV trails. Still have the 300 because the hit still makes me giggle and it is so light. So I say you need both!
  4. I’m going to guess your problem is technique. I have same bike and setup and 606 tires. First get your butt off the seat and stand. Jump on the pegs to compress suspension and upon rebound apply throttle. Unless your on ice, or your timing is off, the bike will wheelie as high as you turn the throttle. With the 500 no clutch is needed unless at higher speeds(4-6th gear). Guarentee that will fix your problem. Watch some of the Graham Jarvis or Shane watt tutorial videos if needed. They will show you it’s all about technique. And get your bum off the seat.
  5. Well I've tried checking every plug and connection under the seat. No dice. I suppose i will try JoeT advice. Although I suspect some other electric gremlin as the starter was working fine previously. No signs of problems.
  6. Thanks guys for replies! Will try those out and report back.
  7. I prefer IMS. Never been a fan of the Clarke shape.
  8. So randomly my electric start doesn't work. When you press the starter button the fuel pump cycles but doesn't even try to turn over. The bike will start with the kicker though. So what are potential problems? -clutch switch (could I bypass it by connecting wires together? -starter switch bad? Even though the bikes primes when I hit it? what else?
  9. I'd say they completely transform 4 strokes and make them much better for riding tough slow trails. And charging corners sliding the rear with no flameout. On my 300 it's nice but not a must have, just a nice to have. That being said, I will put one on every bike going forward because the benefits far outweigh the miniscule drawbacks.
  10. So what are the differences that created the boost in power between the 2 runs?
  11. 1. No this not normal. Rebuild shock properly with seals, bladder, and put in gold valve for improvement. 2. To be less harsh, you can put less oil, I believe 330cc is minimum, and or revalve. 3. 2007 + CRf master cylinder upgrade. But before this I would make what you have in top shape, new fluid and proper bleed, new pads, rotor deglaze and proper bed-in., and possibly new brake line (steel braided). Same goes for rear.
  12. Looking for a reputable place for the valving of my 02 cr250 setup for woods. Who should I use?
  13. MotoKirby

    Cr80

    Give me some details, I maybe interested. What part of OK?
  14. Just buy a tusk kit from Rocky Mountain. It will last you many years and only cost $150.
  15. MotoKirby

    Oil cooler

    That one is nice but is over $500!!!!
×
×
  • Create New...