Jump to content

burns1989

Members
  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About burns1989

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    United Kingdom
  1. burns1989

    2008 rm250 no longer starts

    Sure nothing droped into the plug hole causing it to kick over hard or not at all or posibly it is hydrolicking from water posibly pasing the air box cover , you sure you didnt get your spark plug mixed up with another one posibly. or droped it ?. Just throwing a few ideas out . dous it sound like it is squicking as my friend had a 1998 cr 125 that flooded the crank case and seeped out the exhaust through a small hole in it , and it does happen as padgett has explaned.
  2. burns1989

    Does not start after new top end. Help

    1. have you torqued up all the head bolts and base nuts. 2.check for splits in the intake housiong before the reed block. 3.Are you sure you havent stoped the fule from entering the carb when you adjusted the float hight. or it has flooded when the over flow was spewing out fule. 4.posible blocfked jets blow them out with compresd air , and see if you can see light through them, 5.another thing check your throatle cable is not snagged and keeping the throatle slide to be wide open. 6.Make sure your air filter is clean and oiled. 7. did you use new gaskets . 8.Have you got fule in the tank 9.the spark plug could be faulty and braking down under presure 10.too mutch oil used when rebuilding fouling the plug , if so just bump start it and it should fire up. Well that is almost every thing i can think to check for a posible non starting situation with the basics
  3. burns1989

    Carb, Air/Fuel Screw Question?

    What you should do is not just randomly turn the air slow screw out into a random number , what you are saposed to do is run the the bike to operationale tempriture , once the bike is hot/warm put it on a center stand and let it idle , turn the pilote screw all the way in till it stops dont force it , start it back up and turn the pilot screw out antill the idle picks up to its peack rpm go alitle bit further out and it should slow down again turn in again so it picks up to its highest peak again, leave the pilot screw wher it is , and that should set the slow runnign jet up , but recored how many turns out it was if it is more than 2 3/4 then i would be looking at rejeting. Keep a eye on the colour of your spark plug as that is the only window into how well your engine is running /Black = too mutch fule / white = a lean mixture not enough fule/ brown = perfection . personaly i would stick to the stock pipe it been desingend to work with bike i took mine off after a week as it seemd to knock down the power from the bottem and made it seem unresponcive untill it hit top end and came alive. Stock pipe kicks ass lol But this should be done every time you ride the bike as the hot and cold air and humidaty and altadude will afect the performance of the bike. Hope that helps
  4. burns1989

    2000 rm 125

    Hi just a small question , I have just rebuilt my engine new bottem end top end but my question is this , is it normale for the crank not to tuurn freely as it would after being run in , its not tight but the only way I can explane it is that it feels like the crank seal are tight on the shaft and giving a risistance felling , or could the main bearings be seating wrongly , I measured the hights and they seem to be in properly . Its just the first time rebuilding the bottem end so in not to sure how it should feel . Thenks
  5. burns1989

    2000 rm 125 crank

    hi thanks for the reply i think im just going to take it to my loacle mx shop and get them to get it out as iv only got a press at work but we dont have anything to supaort the casings properly. My next question , does polishing the side ports of the crank where the oil feed is for the crank main bearing and reed valve area with some 1000 and then 2000 wet and dry and aluminium polish for tooling make any diference to the running of the bike as it would have less air drag at higher rpm. or am i just wasting my time. Im not increasing the size of anything just smoothing it out and polishing where the fule and air are pushed up into the ports of the barrel.
  6. burns1989

    2000 rm 125 crank

    Hi iv just striped my engine down to get the conrod replaced but i cant get the crank out from the left hand crank bearing , do you have to press it out or suport the case and knock it out .
  7. burns1989

    2000 suzuki rm 125 rear spring colour

    Just got the bike home on friday and it has got a K-tech spring fitted and a sticker on the shock with the companys name who set it up. I bought this with the knowelge of the engine bieng locked up , so got it back and striped down the top end and to find the back of the piston chewed up amd the top end of the conrod brocken in halph and the needle baerings had got cought up in the ports so now iv sent it off to be replated. Do i need a press to get the crank from out the left engine casing as iv only stripped down to replace the gears and not done any crank rebuilding so iv never removed it from the casing. Thanks
  8. Hello ,, i have just bought a 2000 modle suzuki rm 125 off ebay as a non runner and i have noticed the coil spring on the rear shock is yellow , but my brothers is red and his bike i a 2000 modle as well is there any difrence or meaning to why mine is yellow and his is red , difrent tention weight suspension. im not sure so i thought id get a wider band of people with alot of knowlege lol Thanks Ian
  9. burns1989

    did it seize then unseize?

    My brother had the same thing happen to him on a 2000 rm 125 ran it in for two hours gently , and gave it a blast down the field and on the way back his back wheel locked up, and it siezed up tight i had to rock it back and forth in gear to free it up . whipped the head off to find it had pulled the platting off . but the problem is that a motocross bike is only ment for accelarating from one point to another and not being held open for sutch long periods of time too mutch heat is made and it has no where to go pluss a forged pistion will proberly get too close to the cylinder and causing lack of lubracation if it is being run so hard for so long.
  10. 160 sounds abit on the lean side of things but i gues it might be ok for you as atmospheric and altatude will proberly be high if you have to run lean compeared to sea level.Two strokes dont like to idle for long as the oil will build up and foul the plug aswell. 1. check the colour of your plug to start with as this is your window into how the engine is running / Check, if it is black indecation of rich mixture / oiled up = normaly from being idled to long and fouling the spark plug and a rich oil to gass mixture / retarded ignition / too mutch of a cold type spark plug. White = to a lean mixture and or over heating resulting in posible cooling system fault ,water pump , blocked radiatore fins /a too far advanced ignition timing/ and deteriorated fule. That is what i would start with checking first , if you check all of those things and every thing is within its specification i would then turn to the carb and check the set up on that and for any blocked jets. Another thing to remember is that under presure a spark plug that is faulty will fail , even if it looks good when you take it out deosnt mean it is ok, get a new one and try it after you have made sure the bike set up is spot on. Hope you sort it out
  11. burns1989

    Exhaust Compatibility

    Well i would stick to the stock pipe as i have found that it works best for this bike as i have a 06 rm 250 aswell , iv got the fmf fatty on bored with a the power core two and it has taken the snap out of the power band its more of a smoothed out power simulare to a four stroke in a sence , but it all depends on what you want to use it for .
  12. burns1989

    Metal in gear oil RM 250

    Hi sorry iv been buisy and not able to jump on the computer, Dont use diesle it will cause problems with the clutch material and posibly the engine seals by hardening them but it is verry good at cleaning but not in this situatione. I think parafine would be ok but not 100 % sure , but as stated atf is good and try not to use engine oil use the corect transmision gear oil bike shops suply other wise you can get a film build up on the clutch plates. If you are able to use parfine dont drain the oil and replace it with the parafine do a 50/50 mixture of oil and parafin and run your bike for 10 minutes in idle and not riding it and drain the oil out. and then use cheap oil to flush out as stated 2 to 3 times . but just double chaeck this is ok to do as i dont want to cause you any more problems.
  13. burns1989

    Metal in gear oil RM 250

    hi iv got my manual out for my 06 rm 250 and the gear oil it sais to use is sae 10 w 40 api sf/sg or sh/sj with jaso ma, my manual also sai to change the oil every 6 hours or every 3 races. But if it wer me i would flush out the gearbox antill it came out clear so that you dont have small pockets of aluminium stuck in places that you get when you drain the oil as not all of it will come out, once you have done this you have a good refrence point of knowing there is nothing left behind so that once you drain the oil after a couple of rides you can see if you have a problem or not .
  14. burns1989

    Metal in gear oil RM 250

    The previos owner proberly never changed the oil from new , i had my bike 06 rm 250 second hand and the first thing i did was change the oil and as smaal peicee of meatle was founf it was proberly a chiped tooth as later i found out that the 06 bikes had cheap metale used in the making of the gear boxes , so im sitting tight so far so good and after the third oil change it was crystle clear as i change mine every two race meatings. If there was a problem with the gearbox i would suspect you would of known about it straight away , noise roughness felt when riding or hard to change gear thats what i would expect to hear or feal.
  15. burns1989

    2003 RM 250 smoking pistons

    Hi iv noteced two verticale marks on your barrel in pic 16 that you may have had your piston in the rong way as it looks like your ring has been cought up in the exhaust port. the two line sort of comfirm this as one is lower than the other.
×