Jump to content


Team TT
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About GEOF

  • Rank
    TT Platinum Member

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    Facebook - CleanRebuilds - Hobby engine rebuilding.

Recent Profile Visitors

770 profile views
  1. Good afternoon people. I have a Big Bear the we are working on at the moment and I believe it has a short in the system. Its' the main 30 Amp fuse that is connected to the battery the keeps blowing. When it happens the regulator / rectifer heats up and the fuse pops. This all taks about 5 seconds or less. The light switch is in the off position and the kill switch is also in the off position. The key is not in the key switch and is still pops. I am not sure of the year but it is blue with two round front head lights. Two days ago it would start and run for about 3 seconds and then blow but now it just blows before you can get the key in the ignition. Anyone offer any thoughts on the subject?
  2. Just one other quick question?????// Did you remove any material on the shift star ramps just before and after the neutral position? I hope that makes sense.
  3. Hey Rancher. Thanks very much for all the information. I will make sure I come back to you and let you just how I got on. Kind regards
  4. Thanks for all your info Rancer420. I have new cases on the way and we will swap everything over so I can confirm weather or not it's the case lapping causing the issues. Also we may try the groove polishing. Do you know if the changed the stopper spring also on the 2002??
  5. Hello there. I will inform you honestly of the situation so you can understand where we have come unstuck and please no hate. I fell bad enough already. Thanks. We have carried out a full rebuild of this engine, top and bottom, including transmission bearings. We have a situation in our workshop where we are in need of both the left and right hand cases for a 2000 KX 250. What has happened is we lapped both the inner sections of the cases on our lapping table as both cases were showing signs of distortion. We are not 100% sure how much has been removed but I am guessing it's about 4 thou, I.e 2 thou off both sides. (0.100 mm) The issue is that our client s experiencing problems with it now being difficult to select neutral and when shifting from 1st to second it sometimes selects neutral and not second. there was no problem with shifting before we did the work. I have checked the end float from the output shaft and it was tight when shifting so we removed about 8 thou off the output shaft bush and this has freed up the output shaft but it is still suffering from the same shifting issue. I could go back in now and remove 8 thou off the shift drum as I am sure that is the only other place it could be binding as the main shaft and end float but I think it is best to quit it now and replace the cases. I know that none of this sounds ideal but I am publicly admitting a mistake and that's a difficult thing to do and if anyone can offer me advice or tell me what years that are compatible with the 2000 model as we will find replacement cases and fit them. Kind regards Geoff.
  6. So it turns out that there is an groove on the output shaft to take an oring. That I new and that all makes sense but the trick was that the groove actually takes both the orings. Not a common thing in engineering that I have come across that two orings fit in the same groove. Also the sprocket was aftermarket and did not have the recessed groove in the inside of the sprocket to allow for the case interference it just had two flat sides and no holes. The problem with the oil leak out of the sparkplug tell tale was that I put the rubber oring under the the rubber for the cylinder head cap and not under the cap cap itself. It is a little confusing on the parts diagrams but it makes sense now. Anyway I hope that helps someone else out.
  7. I see what you are saying about the groove. That allows for the edge of the case. Thanks.
  8. Excellent thanks gents. In the KXF450 manual PDF version it shows the o ring directly underneath the cam cover rubber but in the parts breakdown on say Partzilla it shows it under the cam cap that goes over the cams and then the cam cover rubber on top of the cam cap. I had the oring directly under the cam cap rubber. I have put it in the right place and now it should be good. Under the cam cap that goes over the cams and not on top. Do your sprockets have float on them chaps I.e can you move them or are they bolted up tight? Kind regards Thanks for that. Does your sprocket have float or is it tight?
  9. Hello there TTer's. I have attached a few pics of the sprocket situation I am having trouble with. This sprocket does not have a shoulder on it and I think the original one would. This looks to be an aftermartket sprocket. The issue is , as you can see, that when the nut is torqued to 100nm it pushes the sprocket against the side of the engine case and locks up. If I put a 1mm spacer inbetween the sprocket and the small bushing that is in the seal is will tighten up to 100nm and not bind against the side of the case. This leads me to believe the original sprocket had a shoulder on it. Is there any way this can be confirmed. Also I would like to know if the sprocket has float in it or if it is fixed solid. Previous sprockets I have worked with have float and if this is tightened up it does not. I am also having alot of trouble sealing up the cylinder head cover around the sparkplug hole. I have ordered a new oring and sealing plug and hopefully that will help sort it out. Do you chaps know a better way to seal up that area? There is oil leaking out the small tell tale hole in the cylinder head on the right hand side of the motor. Not the waterpump tell tale but the one just under the spark plug on the cylinder head. Any information you can offer would be great. The bike is an 06 model KXF450. IT is a fully rebuilt engine with 0.4 hours on the clock. Kind regards
  10. Hey people. I found out a little more information about the situation. It is leaking out of the cylinder top cap cylinder vent tube and not the transmission crancase tube as I had assumed. It is a 2012 XC-F, fuel injected, with stage 2 cams in it, a 13.1 compression piston, Cylinder works 280 big bore kit. The big bore kit was installed at 80 hours and thats when the problem started. It useed 100 mls of oil after every race. They decided to replace the bottom end at 100 hours and replaced the seals and the crank to see if that would fix it. The bore was not honed when the crank was done and I am not sure if new rings were used, but this is being confirmed about the rings but the bore was certainly not honed. It still used oil but not as much. Now about half the amount. Spitting it out the top vent tube. I am thinking we will do a compression test and a leakage test. It needs a small crack of the throttle when starting hot and takes a little while to start cold. Valves have been checked and are with in spec but I will check these for sure my self. Do you guys have any off the top of your head thoughts???? I'll keep you posted. Kind regards
  11. Not sure. I will find out more information. Thanks for your time and I will come back to you chaps.
  12. Spring rate is much much stiffer. Not really too worried about what it is putting out as anything has to be better than the old 200 shock.
  13. Thanks for that Mike. When you say Stucka ring.........What do you mean, Did the ring break apart or did it have poor inbedment on the cylinder wall?? How much oil were you using?
  14. Hey there D furr. I have not seen the problem and just assumed it was from the transmission vent tube. I ill get more information. Thanks.