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    anything with a piston and burns fuel.

    i also like electronics.

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  1. that hub looks pretty rough. must have been running on a bad bearing for a long time for it to come apart like that. just grind most of the way through it with a dremel 180 degrees apart and break it in half. or spend $50 bucks on a bearing puller kit. based on how that looks there is no way the rest of your bearings wont need replacing and you will "only use once".
  2. maybe pop the head back on and check the squish. if its good than i would not worry about it. it could be that someone machined the bottom of the cylinder to correct the squish instead of machining the head.
  3. yes you can adjust them. its referred to as "dish" if you get the dish wrong when lacing the wheels it wont be centered on the hub correctly. also if the spokes are adjusted wrong it will pull the wheel to one side. you cant change the spacers otherwise your chain and brake will not line up.
  4. you also need the oring and washer if its missing.
  5. this is why you should only adjust the screw between 1 and 3 turns. it gets loose at 3 turns out. i dont like to go past 2.5 turns out.
  6. T means TDC and F is where the timing should be when checked with a timing light at idle (at least that's how my xr100 and xr600 are)
  7. you can leave the TPS on. you want to plug the power jet though otherwise it might run weird. you can just put an M4 x 0.7 set screw in place of the power jet with some locktite, and leave the power jet solenoid in place. or you can get an M8 x 1.0 (fine thread) set screw and plug up that hole too.
  8. here's a used PWK38. exact model i bought. you would need to do some handy work like i did to get it working but its alot cheaper than a new one. i used my float bowl, float, float valve, jet needle, new air screw from my pwm so most of the parts can be changed out. you just need to really clean the used carb out good.!93924!US!-1&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=kx250+carb&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0|0 you can also look for carbs off of newer YZ250, ktm 250-300 2 strokes and maybe a cr250 (i think they went to mikuni after having a screw on cap PWK)
  9. you can buy the "short" or "ktm" style one from jd jet too. its a bit more money but it should fit perfect. you would not need to plug any holes or anything since the power jet and TPS are not machined into the casting. i wish there was a short style one withe the cap. it can be a pain in the butt to change the clip sometimes.
  10. im running the stock needle, 40-42 pilot depending on weather, and a 168 main. both carbs should run pretty similar with the same jetting. pwk will be smother and run better on light throttle.
  11. you have to plug up the power jet with some jb weld and an M4 set screw. i also took off the TPS and made a block off plate. and made a threaded plug for the power jet plunder hole but you can use jb weld.
  12. my 4 strokes usually kick back when the pilot is too small/clogged or my idle is turned up too high.
  13. did you pull the crank into the clutch side first and fully seat it? its supposed to be installed in that side first then the case halves just slide right together. i used the nut and gears and some spacers to pull the crankshaft on mine. if the nut is torqued down with all the spacers and gears on the shaft then that is as centered as the crank is ever going to get.
  14. are you sure a nut or bolt didn't go through it or something? pics of piston? have you ever had it apart before? maybe the damage is old and its something else causing it to not start.