Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tactician

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Tactician

    Goggles in the rain

    Here is the trick to prevent goggles from fogging: 1. Purchase a cheap bar of plain, ole, regular soap. Personally, I stole a brand new bar of Dove soap from my wife. 2. Take the lens out of your goggle frame. 3. With the bar of soap complete dry (no water involved at all), rub the bar of soap on the inside surface of the lens only until a decent film of dry soap has built up over the entire lens. 4. While holding the lens around the edge (you need to keep your fingers off the inside surface of the lens now) GENTLY buff the haze of the soap film off the lens with a clean piece of cloth (I use an old, clean, cut up piece of t-shirt). I can't emphasize enough here that you need to be gentle buffing the haze off. You're not trying to get all the soap back off, you're just trying to get enough of the haze off so that the lens is clear to see through. 5. Gently install your lens back into the goggle frame making sure you touch the inside surface of the lens as little as possible. I find this method to be far more effective, and longer lasting than commercial "no fog" products as well as significantly cheaper and, honestly, more gentle on the surface of the lens. You can immediately test the effectiveness of this method by giving the lens a few close "hot breaths". You may notice water droplets form on the surface of the lens but the lens should never fog over completely to the point you cannot see through them. You should reapply this soap film method before each ride to ensure maximum effectivity.
  2. Tactician

    2000 yz250 plastics conversion

    My 2001 with a few updates.
  3. Tactician


    If you're really lucky you might not get the chance to reproduce....
  4. Tactician

    So much for the epic comeback

    LOL, the keyboard jockeys are strong on this post.
  5. Tactician

    Best Way to Clean Engine Cases?

    https://www.instagram.com/mxrevival_llc/ https://www.mxrevival.com/soda-blasting
  6. I run $90 ProTaper Evos. Decided to go "cheap" once and buy Moose "Burleson" Fat bars, worst decision. Snapped in half at the triple clamp and I run full wrap around bark busters as well. I have never bent, let alone break, a single set of Pro Taper Evos. I race A Class Hare scrambles.
  7. Tactician

    Real men don't wear shop gloves!

    http://www.harborfreight.com/9-mil-nitrile-powder-free-gloves-50-pc-x-large-61743.html Harbor Freight 9 mil Nitrile = My go-to gloves for almost all mechanic type work I do that involves any type of chemical. Cheap, takes me about a year to go through a box, and they are surprisingly durable.
  8. Tactician

    No More Blistered Hands!

    Risk Racing Palm Protectors are the way to go for sure! I've tried the SealSaver Palmsavers and they moved around on my hand more than I liked. There are only two finger holes on the SealSavers Palmsavers. The Risk Racing Palm Protectors have all 5 finger holes to help prevent the protectors from shifting around. Over the past few race seasons I've learned that the best way to keep my palm protectors lasting as long as possible is to wear proper fitting gloves and to only ever hand wash them between rides, never machine wash them. I have raced over 50 hare scrambles using Risk Racing's Palm Protectors and I have never gotten a blister since I started using them. I used to suffer terribly for torn up hands and tried other "blister prevention" systems and none of them worked. Bottom line, the Risk Racing Palm Protectors is the only product that works for me and if you suffer from blistered race hands, I would very highly recommend giving them a try. At $8/set, it's a small price to pay to keep your hands blister free. I can normally get around four to six 2 hr hare scrambles per set!
  9. Tactician

    Yamaha YZ250 2001

    Lean, mean, hare scramble machine!
  10. Tactician

    Yamaha YZ250 (2001)


    Lean, mean, hare scramble machine!
  11. Tactician

    2001 YZ250 two stroke Gear Oil?

    I also have a 2001 YZ250. I run Maxima MTL SAE 80 & 85 wt. 80wt in colder temps and 85wt during the summer.
  12. Tactician

    My Hare Scramble YZ250 - A Labor of Love

    Mine were pitted and faded too. I haven't found a good way to restore them so my alternative option was to cover them up. For the portion between the two triple clamps, I did my best to turn the faded/pitted part inward so they were covered by the front # plate. For the portion below the triple clamps, I bought Factory Effex "carbon Fiber look" KYB upper fork graphics.
  13. Tactician

    My Hare Scramble YZ250 - A Labor of Love

    Thank you everyone for the nice words. Yamalink: I totally agree. I love the steel frame too. Alan48: Yes, they were custom DX1 Element Shroud graphics from Factory Effex. I told them I wanted Yamaha, FMF, Risk Racing, and Pivot Works logos on them and that's what they sent me. The FMF logos were a little small and off colored from Factory Effex so I put a pair of standard FMF oval stickers I had over top of them. The backgrounds were also custom DX1 Element style. DMC707: It's a 2001! A '99 should be able to undergo the same styling changes. The tank is from a 2003 YZ125, the kickstarter is from a 2002 WR426F, and the rear brake master cylinder is off a 2005 YZ125 (all purchased off Ebay). The tank was pretty simple. I followed this simple write up to get mine fitted: http://www.thumperta..._1#entry9352895 Just a 4 brackets, a little careful bending of the radiator tabs, some slight modification to the slot in the seat where it slides into the post on the tank to fit properly and a litlle longer fuel line and you're good to go. I had a ton of slop in my original kickstarter so I wanted to replace it. The 2002 WR's kickstarter knuckle was an exact match to my '01 YZ250 and I liked the look. Bonus was a little extra leverage for hare scramble dead engine starts as the WR's kickstarter is a little longer. I did have to do a little grinding to it to get it to fit next to the clutch cover without rubbing. I also had to grind some on the back side of the starter so it didn't rub on the frame as you kick it downward. The updated rear brake master cylinder was a direct bolt on and elimitated the remote reservoir. The rear brake caliper is still stock. If anyone else has questions, let me know, I'll happily help where I can!
  14. Can you guess the year? 2001 and she's been through hell and back.
  15. My YZ and I have been through a lot together. Bought her from a friend in Feb 2009 and completely rebuild it. Had it stolen from the bed of my truck during the middle of the night in June of 2009. Found it on Craigslist 7 months later; used, abused and neglected and recovered it with the help of the State Police. Rebuilt it again, raced the 2010 hare scramble series and won the Open C class championship. Rebuilt it a 3rd time from the ground up during the winter of 2010-2011, raced the 2011 hare scramble series and won the Open B class championship. This year I took some time off and waited until September to rebuild it. This time I decided to update the look of my baby since she's been through so much. I have an endless list of upgrades and modifications I would love to do, but I've done the best I can with what my budget allows. March 2009: Purchased as is. May 2009: Rebuild #1 Feb 2010: Post Theft April 2010: Rebuild #2 March 2011: Rebuild #3 Sept 2012: Rebuild #4 – Updated Styling