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About sp543

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  1. Also, the oil I drained out of the trans was a milky grey color after I first bought it, but did not appear to be watered down as it still moved and behaved and smelled like new 10w40 oil. I read that the clutch disks when fried, as mine were, can make oil a milky color. Would this mean the pump is ok as long as everything else is good? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just paranoid that I'll do all this work and put the engine into a bike and have it go bad after a short time.
  2. thanks for the help, ill just keep a careful eye on the level of coolant in the radiator and the oil color the first few times i ride it. the seal is the most common thing to fail, right? the impeller is probably pretty reliable, yes? thanks
  3. If that seal is shot, coolant would leak into the transmission case, causing the fluid level in the case to rise, right?
  4. I have a 1998 rm 250 engine that i bought, and was told it ran fine and eveything functioned as it should. I am going over the engine now to eliminate any possible areas that could malfunction, and am wondering about the water pump. Is there any way to test the pump when the engine is completely out of the bike? And i rather not remove the whole side cover to check it out, as there is no specific cover for the water pump on this model, it is integrated with the clutch cover as well. Any ideas? i dont want to drop this engine into something and have it seize up after a few minutes of riding. Thanks
  5. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/850315-1998-rm250-clutch/ Sounds like this guy had the same problem, should i try a washer at the end of the push rod to try and get it pushing out farther?
  6. and when moving the clutch cable lever, the pushrod will still move my finger when i put a good amount of force on it. There are grooves on the clutch basket, and from what i read i can file those down, would the friction plates be catching on those grooves causing it to be continuely engaged?
  7. SO would that be #s 13, 15-18 on this chart? http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/3865-suzuki-1998--rm250/assemblies/122074
  8. I removed the pressure plate and friction plates. The push rod moves when i move the lever for the clutch cable, but it doesn t really retract on its own, should it? the drive sprocket moves freely now in any gear, as it should without the pressure plate or friction plates right? What should i check for wear on the clutch? Thanks
  9. I have a 1998 rm 250 engine im working on installing into a go kart, but im running into issues with the clutch. I pulled the alternator cover to get the clutch cable onto the lever, on the left side of the engine. I pulled up on it ans it has little to no resistance and can move around a bit. Is my clutch shot or is it missing a spring somewhere? I put it into gear and pulled up on the clutch lever and tried to move the sprocket, but the sprocket was still in gear and was not dissengaged. any help or ideas on whats wrong? i couldnt really find anthing in the manual. Thanks
  10. Any other ideas? Nothing in the manual about fluid from breather port.
  11. Smelt like engine oil and gassy kind of mix, it's like engine oil with a mild gas smell to it and it's darker, non transparent grey in color.
  12. Anybody? Any ideas will help
  13. I am prepping an RM 250 engine to install on a racing go kart frame, and am currently building a mount to fit the frame for it. I had the engine tipped over on its side and when I tipped it back up there was a palm sized puddle of grey oily substance. It came out of what I think is a small breather or vent hole for the trans? Its right next to the base of the cylinder, on the kickstart side, on top of the block. I looked in my manual and it said something about an exhaust valve cover? Is it unburnt oil or something? And is it normal in these engine? I'm used to 4 stroke atvs and haunt seen anything like this. I'll get pics if needed soon, thanks in advance.