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About Fruitfarmer231

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  1. Had a squeaking coming from the front wheel of my bike, and decided to try and determine where it was coming from. Saw something online, where and this was on a CRF250, the noise was believed to be coming from the speedo drive. So began the removal of the front wheel. In the past I've had difficulty particularly reinstalling the axle. This is the first bike I can recall owning that actually had pinch bolts on both sides, my previous rides only had the pinch bolts on the right side. This may explain why I've never been happy with the fork action. I hadn't even considered the pinch bolts on the left or rotor side of the assembly. Whatever the noise was it's gone, don't think it involved the speedo drive as that appears to be totally plastic, in any case. I did loosed both sides, after installing the axle, which was easier, bounced the front up and down a few times vigorously, with brake held, tightened the axle to specs and then the pinch bolts. I believe I do notice an improvement in fork action as well. So guess it wasn't so much a fork issue as it was mechanic issue.
  2. Been working on this quad, rear axle bearings were bad. Running into problems getting the U-joint in the swingarm tube to accept the drive shaft that goes to the differential. I have tried to position, made guides to hold the U'joint perpendicular to the finer splines of the shaft, but can't seem to get it to accept it. I really don't want to have to pull then entire swingarm or the gearset coming off the countershaft, but I'm almost resolved to do so. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.
  3. ????? Did you think the stock 0 map was too rich? I'm looking at the stock exhaust map, that came with my Power Tuner and recommends +1, setting for 1/8 and 3/8 throttle opening. I believe this is 3% richer. Now beyond those rpm ranges and throttle openings, the settings were as much as 6-12% leaner. The most aggressive maps are uniformly leaner off the bottom and richer on top. Also seems that less aggressive maps involve retarding ignition. Map for muddy and slippery surfaces were -1 or -2 across the board.
  4. I'm thinking you may be on to something, dumping more fuel down low. I am likely going with a smaller CS sprocket or a few more teeth on the rear, 1st gear is too high to even walk alongside or foot paddle through nasty stuff. As geared I have had my WR doing 88 mph and I really don't need that much speed. I realize that the jerky issue might be worse gearing down, but feel with the mapping change you recommend and the new Rekluse 3.0 EXP coming, things will be much more controlled.
  5. Just reviewed my GYTR Power tuner recommendations, with the FMF System and YZ type Silencer, FI and ignition settngs are zeros through all rpm and throttle settings. Conversely, Stock Exhaust , recommends richer settings except for higher rpm and throttle settings. I don't have any information what the settings, which can't be altered on the OEM ECU are. You would think it would be just the opposite?
  6. :Lay her on the left side and pull the clutch cover, work the clutch lever and you should have a better idea where to go from there. Don't have to drain oil, operation shoud only have 20 minutes.
  7. If I wasn't clear, almost immediately I went with the programmable ECU and replaced the stock ECU on the WR, removed the baffle in the air box, replaced the end cap with a GYT end cap I have been running on both my 07 WR250F and a WR450F, rather than go with the complete swap of the exhaust. Can't recall exactly what I ended up with for maps, but gotta believe it runs pretty much the same as the FX. Another thing I have been considering is dropping a tooth on the CS sprocket. First gear is high enough that I can't walk beside the bike without feathering the clutch. I really could get along with less top end, don't expect to be doing much 85+ mph. The only thing holding me back is the mileage, some of the dual sport rides, stretch gas stops to 70 miles, and that is about the range of the stock 2 gal. tank.assuming a lot of 2 trks, gravel and asphalt. I have a Rekluse 3.0 EXP coming and that may solve the gearing issue. I ran one of them on the 05 WR450 with good results, all but eliminating low speed stalling issues. I opted for the WR over the FX, specifically for the headlight/taillight and multimeter, and planned on the GYT ECU , programmer and other mods to bring performance up to the same level. Here is Michigan it was possible to plate, a bike with the lights, a mirror, horn, brake light which was a simple mod, My first run through didn't pass muster as I didn't bother with the horn, hi/low beam headlight or DOT tires. Haven't decided whether I am going to pursue that any further.
  8. It's been a while now since the FI version of the WR250F has been out, I'm sure some others have upgraded with the programmable ECU, and been wondering what you may be running in terms of Ignition and fuel maps. One of the issues and this seems to be endemic of the FI models is jerky throttle response right off idle. I've tried to modify that a bit with a G2 throttle tube, using a less aggressive cam. I believe there has been some benefit. Others have suggested that you throw "more fuel" at it? If you've experienced this as well and had some positive results I'd like to hear about it. I'm an older rider, closing in quickly on 70, the seat height has been an issue as well, so I'm in the process of mounting a Yamalink, to drop it. The folks there recommended that because of my weight 220#, that I was already beyond the specs of the stock spring, and the link, ( I went with the trail version) as it gave more drop, would only make that worse. While I don't believe I've experienced bottoming out the shock, in spite of hitting some pretty deep whoops at speed, I suspect they may be correct, I am looking forward to finding out. Hope those of you similarly mounted are enjoying the new bikes as well.
  9. The Yamalink just arrived, guys there suggested that my weight at 220 was excessive for the stock shock spring, and the link would makes things worse, so I should consider going with a heavier spring. My goal is to lower the bike, without impacting the travel. Like the way it rides now, but have a real issue dabbing a foot here and there. Very easy to high center when coming to a stop, say turning around on a 2trk, or something of that nature. I'd like to quit tipping over. Looked into various spring options, but there is some talk that the WR and FX shocks are actually an inch longer, to allow for battery protrusion into fender well? So not sure an OEM from a YZ would fit properly.
  10. This was the worst brake bleed I've ever done. I believe it may have to do with the rise in the line and how difficult it is to evacuate air. I seem to recall that I elevated the rear of the bike as much as I could so that the air would move toward the caliper. I was finally successful, but I don't look forward to doing it again. The only reason I did it was to add a hydraulic brake light switch.
  11. I bought a Polisport unit, which also had a taillight/brakelight incorporated, believe RMATV/MC has them, less than $22, and it bolted right up, almost look OEM. Does not have LED, and you might want to silicone it up to keep out dirt and water. But mine has been trouble free.
  12. Just finished reading an issue of MXA, where they discussed some durability issues with the 14-15 YZ250F, namely water pump shaft and shift stopper roller. Seems the stopper had a bearing that disintegrates, and there have been a couple upgrades to a solid roller. The 2016 has been improved so that the roller is attached on both sides vs the 2015 model attached on only one. My question is this upgrade suitable for my 2015 WR250F, as well as the new improved water pump shaft, or had that already been addressed?
  13. Hadn't thought about that, I might experiment with that as well. Time running out for this season, we are seeing some snow, here and there. Thanks.
  14. Thanks, could be the 4stoke, although this feels more 2 stroke than either my 07 WR250 or the 05 WR450, previous bikes I've had were all 2 stroke, and seemed more responsive in deep sand. Seem to remember I could just stand on the pegs and weave my way through it even at slow speed. You may have a point about chopping the throttle, throttle control on the 4stroke is something I am struggling with through corners as well. These fellow riders even though they frequently sit through sand, don't seem to be wandering and working the handlebars to the degree I am. I for the most part I get up on the pegs when in deep sand, lowers the CG. Maybe I just need to get out and spend more time in the deep sand, I'm going to experiment a bit with some lower air pressure. Recall running a flat front on an XR650L, and it never handled so well in the sand as it did that day.
  15. Went on a DS ride with friend on Saturday, 100 miles mostly 2trks, some ORV trail, and quite a bit of deep sand. I have the 2015 WR250F I've modded the air box, cut the throttle stop and installed a larger end tip on the stock exhaust as well as changed the ignition/fuel mapping with the power tuner. Bike runs great, but it seems a bit nervous in deep sand. I'm watching friends on various other makes and models and they don't seem to have as much difficulty as I do. Power helps quite a bit, not sure whether it's the weight shift to the rear, or the change in rake. I am running about 15 psi in the front stock tire, and 12 in the rear. I have the forks slid down to the point where only the fork caps are above the triple clamps. I i have set sag, somewhere around 110mm, I go 220#, despite what magazines have said, the spring rate doesn't seem to be an issue. I will do some experimenting with less air in the front tire, and maybe it's just the way the Yamaha's are. I read that they like to have power on through corners and such, so it may just be something i have to learn how to deal with. But there are occassions when you have to cut the power and like waterskiiing, things do work quite as well when, the water or the sand for that matter gets soft. Any thoughts would be appreciated.