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About Fruitfarmer231

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  1. Fruitfarmer231

    BreeZe carb rebuild

    WE have an older Breeze, and it's in good mechanical conditon. 150 PSI with valves set at .005" I and .006 E. It just doesn't start and run like I feel it should. I've gone through the carb, insuring that the fuel circuits as I understand them are clear. I got it to the point where it starts easily, but runs at pretty high revs, and I'm uncomfortable with that when the engine is cold. Don't believe there are any air leaks in intake, as I've shot some carb cleaner in the area to see if rpms vary. If I switch to the "partial choke" position it will die. I ordered and received a complete carb kit, as I noticed the carb was leaking while parked. Assume it's either a stuck float, leaking needle or level set too high. Just elected to go with new. On the intake side I've always been a bit confused about where those little channels at the bottom of the bell direct air. I assume one goes to the needle jet, but not sure where the other go, and I am aware if differs on various carbs how many there are. The kit includes and "air jet", the little brass jet that threads into one of these holes, but I can't seem to get any info where that goes. Guess I'll just shoot some carb fluid through it when I disassemble and see where it goes. We have a couple Bear Trackers and an older Moto 4 200, and I'd like to get this running on par with them.
  2. Fruitfarmer231

    Handguards and effect on bar flexibility

    The bike has been in storage, and with 4-6" of snow, more on the way. Schools are closed, guess I could, but appears it will be weeks before I get a chance to see if it makes any difference. I'll be checking to try to insure that forks aren't binding, loosening up the mounts, and or removing the guards.
  3. Fruitfarmer231

    Handguards and effect on bar flexibility

    Appreciate your comments, I believe I'll pass on the Flexx bars, I am going to loosen up that inboard mounting bolt and may even pull the handguards off to confirm if there is any difference. I'm not out bashing the bark off trees any longer. I will see if possibly I can install a longer mounting bolt with a lock nut, allowing enough space so the inner mount could rotate slightly. Thanks.
  4. I'm mounted on a 2015 WR250F, that has been modified somewhat. Still running stock exhaust, but got a bigger outlet on the muffler, swapped out he ECU for the programmable one, performed the air box mods, and got a powertuner and made some adjustments. My main issue is I can't seem to adjust the front suspension to remove/reduce the jarring impact of trail chatter. With the, I think they are Pro Taper aluminum bars, no crossbar, there should be some flex there. It occurred to me that possibly mounting up the Cycra Probend Hang guards may be contributing to stiffening up the bars? This pair mounts to the bar closer to the triple clamps, so I'm wondering if just loosening the mounting bolt on the guard might help. haven't determined how I would keep it from falling out then. I've also looked into mounting up a set of Flex bars as well. I am running minimal compression damping, and believe I have correctly aligned the forks. Any additional thoughts?
  5. Fruitfarmer231

    fork issue with a 2015 WR250F

    Had a squeaking coming from the front wheel of my bike, and decided to try and determine where it was coming from. Saw something online, where and this was on a CRF250, the noise was believed to be coming from the speedo drive. So began the removal of the front wheel. In the past I've had difficulty particularly reinstalling the axle. This is the first bike I can recall owning that actually had pinch bolts on both sides, my previous rides only had the pinch bolts on the right side. This may explain why I've never been happy with the fork action. I hadn't even considered the pinch bolts on the left or rotor side of the assembly. Whatever the noise was it's gone, don't think it involved the speedo drive as that appears to be totally plastic, in any case. I did loosed both sides, after installing the axle, which was easier, bounced the front up and down a few times vigorously, with brake held, tightened the axle to specs and then the pinch bolts. I believe I do notice an improvement in fork action as well. So guess it wasn't so much a fork issue as it was mechanic issue.
  6. Been working on this quad, rear axle bearings were bad. Running into problems getting the U-joint in the swingarm tube to accept the drive shaft that goes to the differential. I have tried to position, made guides to hold the U'joint perpendicular to the finer splines of the shaft, but can't seem to get it to accept it. I really don't want to have to pull then entire swingarm or the gearset coming off the countershaft, but I'm almost resolved to do so. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.
  7. Fruitfarmer231

    2015 WR250F-No Sweet Spot in First Gear

    ????? Did you think the stock 0 map was too rich? I'm looking at the stock exhaust map, that came with my Power Tuner and recommends +1, setting for 1/8 and 3/8 throttle opening. I believe this is 3% richer. Now beyond those rpm ranges and throttle openings, the settings were as much as 6-12% leaner. The most aggressive maps are uniformly leaner off the bottom and richer on top. Also seems that less aggressive maps involve retarding ignition. Map for muddy and slippery surfaces were -1 or -2 across the board.
  8. Fruitfarmer231

    2015 WR250F-No Sweet Spot in First Gear

    I'm thinking you may be on to something, dumping more fuel down low. I am likely going with a smaller CS sprocket or a few more teeth on the rear, 1st gear is too high to even walk alongside or foot paddle through nasty stuff. As geared I have had my WR doing 88 mph and I really don't need that much speed. I realize that the jerky issue might be worse gearing down, but feel with the mapping change you recommend and the new Rekluse 3.0 EXP coming, things will be much more controlled.
  9. Fruitfarmer231

    WRf 250 2015 exhaust set up

    Just reviewed my GYTR Power tuner recommendations, with the FMF System and YZ type Silencer, FI and ignition settngs are zeros through all rpm and throttle settings. Conversely, Stock Exhaust , recommends richer settings except for higher rpm and throttle settings. I don't have any information what the settings, which can't be altered on the OEM ECU are. You would think it would be just the opposite?
  10. Fruitfarmer231

    My clutch is not working?

    :Lay her on the left side and pull the clutch cover, work the clutch lever and you should have a better idea where to go from there. Don't have to drain oil, operation shoud only have 20 minutes.
  11. Fruitfarmer231

    Ignition and Timing Maps for 2015 WR250F

    If I wasn't clear, almost immediately I went with the programmable ECU and replaced the stock ECU on the WR, removed the baffle in the air box, replaced the end cap with a GYT end cap I have been running on both my 07 WR250F and a WR450F, rather than go with the complete swap of the exhaust. Can't recall exactly what I ended up with for maps, but gotta believe it runs pretty much the same as the FX. Another thing I have been considering is dropping a tooth on the CS sprocket. First gear is high enough that I can't walk beside the bike without feathering the clutch. I really could get along with less top end, don't expect to be doing much 85+ mph. The only thing holding me back is the mileage, some of the dual sport rides, stretch gas stops to 70 miles, and that is about the range of the stock 2 gal. tank.assuming a lot of 2 trks, gravel and asphalt. I have a Rekluse 3.0 EXP coming and that may solve the gearing issue. I ran one of them on the 05 WR450 with good results, all but eliminating low speed stalling issues. I opted for the WR over the FX, specifically for the headlight/taillight and multimeter, and planned on the GYT ECU , programmer and other mods to bring performance up to the same level. Here is Michigan it was possible to plate, a bike with the lights, a mirror, horn, brake light which was a simple mod, My first run through didn't pass muster as I didn't bother with the horn, hi/low beam headlight or DOT tires. Haven't decided whether I am going to pursue that any further.
  12. It's been a while now since the FI version of the WR250F has been out, I'm sure some others have upgraded with the programmable ECU, and been wondering what you may be running in terms of Ignition and fuel maps. One of the issues and this seems to be endemic of the FI models is jerky throttle response right off idle. I've tried to modify that a bit with a G2 throttle tube, using a less aggressive cam. I believe there has been some benefit. Others have suggested that you throw "more fuel" at it? If you've experienced this as well and had some positive results I'd like to hear about it. I'm an older rider, closing in quickly on 70, the seat height has been an issue as well, so I'm in the process of mounting a Yamalink, to drop it. The folks there recommended that because of my weight 220#, that I was already beyond the specs of the stock spring, and the link, ( I went with the trail version) as it gave more drop, would only make that worse. While I don't believe I've experienced bottoming out the shock, in spite of hitting some pretty deep whoops at speed, I suspect they may be correct, I am looking forward to finding out. Hope those of you similarly mounted are enjoying the new bikes as well.
  13. Fruitfarmer231

    Devol lowering link on 15 wr250f

    The Yamalink just arrived, guys there suggested that my weight at 220 was excessive for the stock shock spring, and the link would makes things worse, so I should consider going with a heavier spring. My goal is to lower the bike, without impacting the travel. Like the way it rides now, but have a real issue dabbing a foot here and there. Very easy to high center when coming to a stop, say turning around on a 2trk, or something of that nature. I'd like to quit tipping over. Looked into various spring options, but there is some talk that the WR and FX shocks are actually an inch longer, to allow for battery protrusion into fender well? So not sure an OEM from a YZ would fit properly.
  14. Fruitfarmer231

    Bleeding rear brake

    This was the worst brake bleed I've ever done. I believe it may have to do with the rise in the line and how difficult it is to evacuate air. I seem to recall that I elevated the rear of the bike as much as I could so that the air would move toward the caliper. I was finally successful, but I don't look forward to doing it again. The only reason I did it was to add a hydraulic brake light switch.
  15. Fruitfarmer231

    Plate Mount

    I bought a Polisport unit, which also had a taillight/brakelight incorporated, believe RMATV/MC has them, less than $22, and it bolted right up, almost look OEM. Does not have LED, and you might want to silicone it up to keep out dirt and water. But mine has been trouble free.