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boomshakalaka

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About boomshakalaka

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    California
  1. boomshakalaka

    Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

    Hey guys, finally got time and parts to work on my bottom end. I was assembling everything, never having found the cause of the damaged dogs in the trans. But when I got to the shift star cam(beta calls it a stop cam, the thing in the clutch housing that screws into the shift drum and that gets pushed by the pawl-- part#006.05.040.80.00) had some pretty good mashing from where the cam stop lever rides on it, mostly on the side of the indents where it would strike when down shifting. I've attached pics, but it's hard to get the iphone to focus on shiny stuff close up. With the cases back together, I could upshift just fine, but downshifting I would find false neutrals a lot (cam stop lever resting up between indents.) At this point I just ordered a new shift star cam. I was finding false neutrals occasionally between 3rd and 4th since new, and that's where the marring on the shift star cam is the worst. Still not sure what to make of all this. Possibly a defective shift star cam from the factory? Too aggressive with downshifting (stomping it down?) Let me know if you have any ideas, this mystery is killing me.
  2. boomshakalaka

    O.i. Removal questions

    My bike is all apart and along with replacement parts to fix my transmission I ordered the RR Race Edition intake boot (no OI bung) instead of going with the kit. What all did you find you had to remove that wasn't in the kit instructions? My plan is to just leave the TPS pickup in the carb --I like the throttle pull as is, and removing it would lighten it a bit-- pull the pump, figure out the wiring so I don't have the warning light on, and pull the reservoir. Also, is there a write up somewhere for the airbox mod?
  3. boomshakalaka

    Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

    Building a mock up is a great idea. As for something being assembled wrong, it'd have to have been at the factory as I bought the bike new and this is the first time the engine has been opened. I suppose it's not impossible, but seems a lot less likely than if it had been a used bike. I'm certainly not going to rush reassembly, but thanks for the tips, they'll definitely have me pay special attention to orientation, and the possibility of missing spacers, all while constantly referencing the exploded parts fiche.
  4. boomshakalaka

    Starting while in gear with the clutch in

    It's called the e-start bump start. Ask me how many times it took before I came up with a name for it.
  5. boomshakalaka

    Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

    I'm not sure what you mean by driving side. I can't off the top of my head think which gear is pushing and which is being pushed, but the bevels on the mating face of the dogs on both gears are chewed up like this. Trying to play it out in my head, I can't imagine how you could do any noticeable damage to the opposite faces of the dogs without having completely grenaded your transmission. Or maybe you were distinguishing between the gears on the primary shaft and the gears on the countershaft (which drives the chain)? I really don't feel like I'm too gentle-- unless of course "checking to make sure I'm in 6th" by shifting up to feel the stop functions the same as being gentle. When "checking" since it's hitting the stop, maybe the gears only partially disengage, it's on road with no cush drive, and maybe my clutch was slightly out of adjustment?
  6. boomshakalaka

    Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

    That would've been my guess, but I'm not seeing any bends in any of the forks. The other two possible causes I've heard thrown out are excessive on road riding (we do plate our bikes and do some dual sporting, linking trails with road sections and hopping on the road to go grab lunch) and shift technique. Possibly a combination of both? I tend to kind of tune out on the road, and sometimes will find myself in 5th, not having shifted up to 6th. This has caused me to tend to check if I'm in 6th by shifting up to feel the stop. Other than that, I'm not exactly gentle with the shift lever, and when I'm sitting the lever is high (I tend to stand more), which causes me to step on it to down shift instead of pivot from the back of my foot around the peg. It seems like shift technique is one of those things that you'd never have much occasion to think about until you're rebuilding your transmission at 80 hours
  7. boomshakalaka

    Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

    XTrainer popping out of 4th gear at high revs at 80 hours. The dogs on the 3rd/4th primary gear as well as the one's on 5th gear that they mate with are pretty well chewed up. 6th gear isn't as bad, but is starting to lose its edge. I have an order in for all three. The smaller bearings on both the primary and countershaft are a bit sticky, so they're getting replaced, but not sure how that'd cause the wear on the dogs. What could cause this at 80 hours? I know some guys don't clutch their gear shifts on dirt bikes, but I do on every shift-- am I hitting the shift lever too hard? I don't mind wrenching on my bike, but rebuilding the trans every 80 hours will break the bank and have me finding a new hobby ­čśĽ
  8. boomshakalaka

    O.I delete

    In case you can't source the bits locally, are a penny pincher, want to stick it to the man, can't be bothered to wait on shipping, or some combo of these excuses to use a hammer to work on your dirt bike: The smaller tamper proof torx bolts are easily removed with a hammer and chisel. Just start off parallel to the bolt on either side of the torx hole until you get a decent wedge in there, then angle the chisel so you can tap in the direction you want the bolt to spin. Then replace with normal bolts. The head bolt's torx socket is roomy enough that you can use a chisel to drive out the pin by knocking it one way and the other until it snaps. Then proceed to use a normal torx to remove it. Replace with a hex bolt if you see fit.
  9. boomshakalaka

    Gas cap noise/pressure

    I know this is an old post now, but I read through to the end of thread and didn't see anyone mention it. Per your description, your tank was under vacuum, not pressurized. The hissing was the air rushing in not out. At 1 bar, gasoline would need to be at about 260*F or 125*C to start to boil. I'm sure it was hot out, and I'm sure the motor was cooking, but it's doubtful your fuel was sitting at 260*F, and even then, under pressure, the boiling point increases. It is interesting that there doesn't seem to be a pressure vent, just a vacuum vent. Our cars' EVAP systems do both. Doing only one doesn't make a ton of sense, but maybe it's what the manufacturers were able to negotiate with Emissions regulators short of having to add a clunky system that offers no marketable performance gains (no one's buying dirt bikes based on MPG..).
  10. boomshakalaka

    XR600R, lean, rich, lean, rich... which is it?

    So I received the correct UNI filter in the mail, lubed and installed it. Bike started up, but needed choke this time. I rode around for a bit, and again the revs started to stick kind of high, so I adjusted the idle speed screw way down, and it worked. I guess the idle speed screw was just way too far in, so it worked for startup when the PO had the clogged slow jet in there. Now the bike idles pretty nicely and returns to a nice low idle. After this, I decide to play with the FMF supertrapp style exahust. The bike is quite loud and I live in a pretty quiet neighborhood. So I went to take out a few plates, and there were washers in there spacing ou the plates.. and there were 10 plates in place already! With the airholes drilled in the air pox and the washers in the supertrapp, I think its official, the previous owner was a moron who had no clue about tuning. Anyways, I'm going to play around with adding and subtracting plates over the next few days.. right now it's got 5 or 6 in and it's definitely on the rich side. But it seems like besides the leaking head, the bike is running decently.
  11. boomshakalaka

    XR600R, lean, rich, lean, rich... which is it?

    Cristian! Hey, there Ya, I do, and ya, that's what I thought it might be, but I wasn't sure. Man, I hope the head isn't cracked! I guess I probably won't have much luck tuning it until I dig into the motor. Now I just have to make up my mind and decide whether I want to do the work myself in my carport, or farm it out. Not sure how my landlord would feel about me doing a top end rebuild in the carport.
  12. boomshakalaka

    XR600R, lean, rich, lean, rich... which is it?

    Thanks, this is the sort of "where to look" guidance I was hoping for. Sometimes it's just really hard to know where to start, you know? I have the next two days off, so I should be able to get through this checklist. I'll update then.
  13. boomshakalaka

    XR600R, lean, rich, lean, rich... which is it?

    Yes, but once the bike was up to temp and suddenly idling really high, the idle speed knob/screw no longer seemed to have any effect.
  14. boomshakalaka

    XR600R, lean, rich, lean, rich... which is it?

    I'll give that a go, but just to be clear I meant the idle speed screw/knob had no effect, I did not play with the idle mixture screw.
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