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About Cleetis

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  1. Got the Magura clutch and JD's Keihin carb installed and took them out for a ride today. I've been putting off buying these two parts for a while but am stoked I finally did. To say the least, I am blown away by both products. The Magura clutch softened up the lever pull a crap load (feels like an ugly orange bike clutch). It's also adjustable and super easy to install. I found my self one finger clutching which was not possible on my stock cable set up. The new carb made the bike feel like a 2 stroke should... super crisp and wayyy more responsive. Spooge levels went way down too and now there is no longer oil dripping onto my rear brake.
  2. Is your clutch pull extremely stiff as well? My buddy has a KTM 250 with the magura clutch and it feels like butter. I'm hoping for the same feel but am sceptical... I'll let you know. It should get here Tuesday.
  3. Little update... I've since got the JD jetting kit and notice a decent improvement over stock jetting. I'd say well worth the 75 bucks- James is very helpful too. But I think I am going to swing for the Kehein carb also from JD jetting. I rode today and it was a little colder and the bike ran way different. Also waiting for a Magura hydraulic clutch to come in. Hopefully this solves the overly stiff clutch pull (already tried new cable). Also- does anyone know where to order a new kickstart arm from? I can't find them in my online searches.
  4. Im looking for a used over sized gas tank for my 2001 and am coming across a lot of 2000 and 2002 tanks. Will these fit my 2001? Are there any other years that might fit? Looking at the stock tank part numbers the 2000 looks close...?
  5. The manual for my 2001 is vague as well. I read it as- You want to orientate it so the float valve is closed. In your hand/on the work bench this would be upside down from how it sits in the bike. Then measure vertically up from the mating face of the float bowl to highest point on the float (in line with the main jet). Someone correct me if I read it wrong...
  6. Yep, normal. A lot of bikes spooge more than that even
  7. Its hard to tell from that picture but an 'only-snug-tight' nut from the upper triangle shapped engine bracket vibrated off during the first start and fell into the front sprocket and jammed up in there. Depending on if I rolled forwards or backwards the nut would move and lock up the rear wheel one direction or the other. Neutral didn't jam either direction when the bike was on its side because that damned nut would fall free of the sprocket but would still be held in that area by the sprocket cover. Oops! Now I just need to properly jet this silly carb. What jetting kits do most people get for the TMX? The JD kit looks like it only comes with Needle and main jets, and no pilots??
  8. Aha! I figured it out, but am not sure I want to disclose the problem... take some guesses from this picture... not the kicker assembly... Some buttoned up victory pictures of her...
  9. Hrm, got her on her side with the right crank case cover off. Took out the clutch plates too. Everything looks normal and it even shifts through all the gears while I spin the rear wheel. Neutral exists and works too... its like nothing is wrong. Can something go wrong between the state the bikes in now and buttoning her back up? I don't understand...
  10. I also replaced the crank seals so I had to pull the left and right case covers, kick start mechanism, idler gear, entire clutch assembly and governor gear.
  11. Nope, havn't split the cases before. Hoping that I dont need too. When pulling the right case cover and then reinstalling can I reuse my one day old gasket or is that a bad idea?
  12. So I just started the bike up for the first time since the new top end, new reeds and new crankshaft seals. Fired up third kick- stoked. I just let it warm up then reved a few 1/4 throttle revs and turned her off. Then, put it in neutral and tried to wheel it in the garage. It rolled a few feet and I heard a light clicking noise so I stopped and rolled it backwards a little (light clicking again) then rolled it forward again and it locked up. Now, when in neutral it always locks up rolling forward and when I roll it backwards it makes a light clicking noise... When it gear it acts like it should and it starts back up just fine. I'm going to tilt the bike on its left side tomorrow and pull the right crank case again and look around.... but, does anyone have any theories or leads on where to look first? My only theory so far is that the kick start spring came unseated in the case when I installed that right cover again.
  13. Thanks Hard Hit. Instead of using a clutch hub holder I put the bike in a high gear and threw a stiff broom handle in spokes of the rear wheel. I was able to get the clutch center nut to the ~700in-lbs spec with this moethod. Saved me from a $20 tool.
  14. Thanks BBars. With the Boyesen Power Reeds, am I not supposed to use the stock large, angled rev plates at all? And instead use the included Boyesen small rectangular rev plate? The install directions make it sounds this way but seems strange to me... Bikes coming along well. Just got the left and right crank cases back on with the new crank seals. The new ones were relatively simple to press in. I found a mountain bike tool that fit perfect for landing on the OD of the seal and just hammered slowly and evenly. Still trying to locate a clutch hub holder to get that center bolt back on.
  15. For cleaning this power valve I completely disassembled and spent way too long scrubbing all the parts with scotch brite and using a dental pick to remove the carbon build up. Also used engine degreaser. Does anyone have any tricks for tightening the clutch center bolt? I'd rather not buy the $35 tool to hold it steady while tightening the nut. The Wiseco manual has a section on drilling lubrication holes in the piston if your 2-stroke has an exhaust bridge. I'm pretty certain this bike (2001 cr250) does not since I don't see one in the cylinder. Everyone agree on this?