eric-cartman

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About eric-cartman

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  • Location
    Connecticut
  1. Connecticut

    Connecticut Cycleworks in North Haven. Ask for Steve. He's done work for me before and he specializes in Japanese bikes. Charges $60/ hour. Libbys in New Haven gets like $90/ hour. I'm actually bringing my Husqvarna 510 in to him later this week to have the valves shimmed. Good luck.
  2. Just got my 01 yz125 put back together after a stuck powervalve and did a new top end while i was at it. I have been playing with the idle screw a little bit trying to lower the idle speed and have a question. I currently have the idle set very low (as low as it will go without stalling when not in gear) but when I clutch and shift into gear, the bike will stall. So that being said, what is the best way to set the idle? Should I pull in the clutch, shift into gear, and then adjust the idle to as low as it will go without stalling? I have been told that 2 strokes should not really idle anyway and as long as it idles in neutral, it's fine so maybe I just have to get used to giving a little bit of throttle before shifting. Looking for opinions. Thanks
  3. Took the bike apart today.. A few things to note: It appeared that the orange wire coming from the CDI box was not fully plugged onto the ignition coil. Not sure if that came off when I removed the tank or was like that yesterday and is part of the problem. Reeds look fine. The right power-valve that I previously had welded, was broken again. The little rod/dowel moves around and the spring no longer is able to move it back and forth like it should. I believe the valve was stuck in the closed position. The whole assembly was also full of oil. Going to try to find a new PV on ebay and will put everything back together as well as a new piston and ring.
  4. Took my 01 YZ125 out for the first time this season. When I put it away in the fall, it was running great; no problems whatsoever. I changed all the fluids, new plug, new air filter, etc. yesterday and mixed up a fresh batch of 93 octane fuel with Yamalube 2R at 32:1 (same mix that I always use). Started the bike in my yard and let it idle, no problems. Rode around the street in 1st and 2nd gear, no problems. Loaded the bike on the truck and headed out to the sandpit where I ride. When I got there, I let the bike warm up for about 10 minutes before riding. Pipe was hot to the touch and it was revving perfectly. My friend that was with me mentioned how the jetting seemed to be spot on. Normal amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust during idle and rev. Got on and it was absolutely ripping for about 2 minutes until it let out a loud backfire and died. Was very smoky (according to my friend) and smelled like burning oil. Lots of oil running out of my silencer and if you put your finger inside, it came out covered in oil. If I tried to start the bike again, it would idle for about 5 seconds before dieing. I have a clear fuel line and we noticed that no fuel was being sucked in so we took the carb off, drained the bowl, and put it back on. That seemed to fix the problem. Bike will now idle as it should but when I twist the throttle, it bogs down real hard. Tried a new plug and that didn't help. I got on and rode around in first gear and it was extremely jerky and could only go about 5mph. Before going crazy tomorrow and tearing everything apart, I am hoping to get some ideas as to what this might be. Other things to mention: - Bike has the JD jetting kit and is set up as per J.D.'s recommendations. Carb not been touched since last year. - Stator has not been touched since last year. - V-Force reeds - came in the bike when I bought it 2 years ago. Thinking they might have chipped and need to be replaced. - Powervalves - been having an issue where one of the powervalve pins/ dowels comes loose, rendering the one of the 2 powervalves useless (either stuck in the open position or closed position). I have had it welded a couple of times already and I'm thinking maybe it came undone again. I have had it stuck open before and never noticed any change in performance. Never experienced it stuck closed but have heard this could cause a bog. - Piston and ring have approximately 12 hours on them. - Fatty pipe - thinking that there may be a pool oil sitting in the low spot of the pipe, restricting the exhaust flow. Could blow compressed air in to see if anything comes out.
  5. Thanks folks. had a ton of fun with this project and learned just about everything there is to know about the bike with help from this site.
  6. Hi all, bought this bike about 2 years ago as my first bike ever. It's an 01 YZ125 that I got for cheap off craiglist and needed some TLC. Took the drain plug out to change the oil and it must have been put in too tight because it took a whole chunk of the case along with it. So I figured since I need to rebuild the motor with new cases, I might as well go all out. Had the frame powdercoated, did a ton of work on the suspension, motor, clutch, and carb. New bearings, plastics, rims, tires, brake lines, etc. Funds and time were limited so this has kind of been an ongoing project that I have been working on over the past year and a half. Finally got her put back together and she runs like a top. Before: After:
  7. I have an 01 YZ125 as well and could never get the jetting right. Bought the JD Jetting kit and followed the recommendations and the bike has never run so well. Best $70 ive ever spent on the bike.
  8. Connecticut

    Does anyone know if I can ride my YZ125 dirtbike at Pachaug Forest? It is registered as an off road vehicle but not street legal. From what I've been told, you only need to be street legal if you are riding the loop because part of it is on the road, but as long as I stay on the dirt trails and don't go out to the road, I am fine with just the off road vehicle registration. I am in the New Haven area and am looking for places to ride like woods, trails, power lines, dunes, etc. so if anyone in the area knows of any places, please message me and we can meet up and go riding. I have been going to the valley service road in North Haven but the cops seem to always be there. I've also been on the power lines in Durham with a friend but he isn't riding anymore. Thanks
  9. got it started. i think the issue was that the kill switch had a short because when I unplugged it, it fired right up
  10. Update.... I removed the flywheel and stator. Both had some rust on them so I did some sanding, but all the wiring was intact and looked fine. Put the ignition back together then took the pipe off look in to make sure the piston was not in backwards, which it is was not. However, there was a considerable amount (probably a cup) of fuel sitting in the lowest point in the pipe (where it bends coming out of the engine) blocking the pipe up. This was from the fuel that I poured down the spark plug hole the other day when trying to start the bike. Emptied that out and put the pipe back on. Checked the reeds again and they looked great. Went out and got a compression tester and got 60 PSI (but I was not holding the throttle open). I don't know if this is an accurate reading or the tester is defective. It was a rental unit from pep boys. The compression feels like it is ok. Can't really turn it over with my hand. Engine still would not start. Seems like there is good spark, but I still don't know if it is enough. Plug is wet so I know it is getting fuel. Took the engine out and sanded all the mounting locations to bare metal so I have a good ground loop. Took the top end apart and everything looks fine. Piston is fresh. I think I will replace the ring though. Cylinder still has good visible cross hatching. All gaskets are fine. Powervalves are functioning and are not stuck. Could it be possible that somehow the kill switch is engaged? I can't think of anything else that may be causing an issue here. The bike was running great at the end of last summer up until I hit a stump and cracked the crankcase, so I wouldnt think that the CDI box or anything like that would go bad after sitting in a box for a few months. All I did was rebuild the engine with new cases and have the frame powdercoated. I forgot to mention, that I do not have wheels on the bike or a clutch cable (bike is in neutral). Anyone else have any ideas as to what may be causing this? or anything I can test/ try?
  11. I had a cracked crankcase at the end of last summer so I took the whole bike apart and rebuilt the engine with new cases, new top end, etc., rebuilt suspension, installed JD jetting kit in carb, and had the frame powdercoated. I put the bike back together this past weekend and went to start it, but no luck. Below are some details. If anyone could chime in with what they think is happening, I would sincerely appreciate it. I am trying to get the bike ready for this weekend. 1) Before re-installing the stator, I called up my local dealership and asked if they could set the ignition timing for me since I don't have a TDC gauge. They told me all I had to do was line up the timing mark on the stator with the timing mark on the case. I was a bit skeptical because I was under the impression that the piston position had a lot to do with the timing so I called up another dealership and they told me the same thing as the first dealership. I then looked in my manual and all it said was to line up the marks, so that's what I did. 2) I had the frame powdercoated and they coated over everything including the motor mounts and the area where the ignition coil mounts to the frame. I am thinking this may have something to do with the grounding as there is no bare metal on the frame. Should I try sanding these areas off so there is connection with bare metal? 3) I am getting some spark, however, I don't know if it is enough. I had my friend kick, while I held the plug up to the cylinder head. It was a bright day so it was kind of hard to tell if there was any spark, but I could definitely see it sometimes. As a last resort, I held the spark plug, while he kicked it and it shocked me pretty good. So this tells me that I am getting some spark, however, I don't know if it is enough or consistent. 4) Intake - reeds are good. Jets are brand new. Air screw is set at the JD Jetting recommendation. Took carb apart and bowl was full of fuel so I know it is flowing from the tank with no obstructions. 5) Sprayed starter fluid into carb and also poured some 32:1 mix down the spark plug hole and tried to start it. No luck. Tried with 3 different spark plugs, all brand new BR9EG plugs. 6) Have not done a compression test, but it is a brand new Wiseco top end and there is a normal amount of force required to kick it over. Nothing leads me to believe there is a lack of compression.
  12. This may be a stupid question but here it goes: I did a complete rebuild of my 01 YZ125 over the winter after I had a cracked crankcase and broken powervalve. I have everything back together now except the wheels, which are out being powdercoated and rebuilt. They are due back to me next Friday, the 10th. My question is this: with the bike on the stand, can I start it even though it doesn't have a chain or wheels on it? I just want to make sure it starts and idles without any problems. I am supposed to go on a riding trip on Saturday the 11th so it won't really give me much time to fix anything (if necessary) if I can't start the bike until the chain and wheels are back on. My friend told me I should wait because its not good to start the motor without a chain, but I want to get other opinions. Thanks and sorry if this is a dumb question.
  13. I bought an 01 YZ125 for cheap last year as my first bike and just rode it around the woods and on some small jumps that my friends made in their yard. Anyway, now that I have some money, I would like to tune the suspension and start taking it to the local track as well as more intense woods riding. Engine mods were done by the previous owner so really the suspension is the only thing I'm worried about. It is currently stock (.41kg fork springs, and 4.6 shock spring) and I weigh 185 pounds without gear. Clearly, the suspension is for a smaller rider because when I get on the bike it sags way down and when I land the small jumps, I tend to bottom out. Also, it was leaking oil down the legs pretty badly. I replaced the seals, bushings, and oil and just ordered .44kg fork springs and a 5.0kg rear spring from Racetech. Will I be able to notice a significant improvement with these upgrades or should I do a Racetech revalve (front and back) while I'm at it? I would prefer to just do it all now (if necessary) while I have the forks and shock apart. Any input would be appreciated.
  14. anyone?
  15. I am doing a complete rebuild of my 01 YZ125 and want to re-do my rear suspension and get a spring that is better for my weight (185 without gear). Thinking about getting one from a big bike (250 or 450F) on ebay. What is the compatibility like on these? Will one that came off an 08 YZ450F work on my bike?