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BRP27

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About BRP27

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    TT Silver Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    riding dirt bikes and fixing stuff

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  1. BRP27

    Radiator Cooling Fan DIY

    I didnt mean I dont like fuses but in this circuit having two fuses and a relay to control the fan it was not critical to have a 5 amp fuse. A 7.5amp fuse still provided the protection I wanted
  2. BRP27

    Radiator Cooling Fan DIY

    It works good, no problems.
  3. BRP27

    Radiator Cooling Fan DIY

    Since the factory kit didn't have a relay or fuses and I ran a separate power supply from the battery, I considered the use of fuses overkill and sized them so they didn't cause a problem
  4. BRP27

    Radiator Cooling Fan DIY

    I checked my receipts and the total was $138.62, $28.64 of that was for a nice relay which was over kill on a small fan. The Trail Tech is a nice unit at 169.95 14.28 Tax 16.89 UPS Ground ---------------- 201.12 Total Which is a lot better price than I have seen on the Honda Kit I built this myself because I can do it and I like to do it .
  5. BRP27

    Radiator Cooling Fan DIY

    I ride in Tight twisty trails on hills with lots of rocks. So I put a Radiator fan on the 250X.It turns on at 185F and turns of below 185F or the engine is stopped. There is a connector under the gas tank that is for the Honda Kit. I did not use the Honda Kit. Did a DIY project. The Drawing attached shows details of connections and part numbers and where I bought the parts. I started by reading the post on the forum for CRF450X that did this http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/843489-put-a-fan-on-he-x/ Here is a link to a write up on doing this on a Car http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efaninstall.htm I used the wiring diagram Pulled the tank, shrouds, seat and other parts off Mounted the Fan on the two outside mounts on the radiator. Used a piece of "plumbers tape" to extend the third inside radiator mount. The fan is not an exact fit for the third inside mount. There is a picture of the third mount with the metal "tape". The Mount for the Fan is very solid. The shroud does not touch the radiator but pullsplenty of air thru the radiator. I removed the existing Honda plug for the Honda "kit" and used the Black lead +12V shown on factory wiring (owners Manual) Diagram as Bl as the switched part of the circuit. This switched portion cuts the fan off when the engine stops. Keeps the battery from being drained. The Green lead on the Honda plug is ground on the factory wiring diagram in owners Manual. Wired it up as shown on attached Drawing, checked the connections three times . Soldered all connections, used electrical two wire plugs ( trailer type wiring connectors) on any thing that might need to come out for maintenance such as the thermostat, relay has its own plug and connections into wiring harness. Used heat shrink on all soldered connections. I used two +12V connections. One controls the relay pulling in and out with T stat and the other powers the fan. I tied the ground back to the Green factory lead on the connector for the Factory Kit . Most of installation time was spent on the Aftermarket Radiator Brace "adjusting" it to clear the new fan. If you dont have radiator braces this DIY will be easier. Fan comes on at 185 F, shuts off when the engine stops so it will not run the battery down. I used a split plastic wiring harness cover for the "wiring Harness" that I made. This made the harness bigger than I would have prefered but it protects the wiring. There is not much room under the gas tank but that's where all the wiring went . Every part is weatherproof. Fuses are in sealed housings, relay is in sealed housing, Fan is weatherproof. Not very hard to do if you are familar with wiring and schematic diagrams. It worked for me on first try. I spent about $150 on this install
  6. BRP27

    Magic Button trouble shooting

    Its been almost a year since I posted on this subject. But the majic button was not working again when I tried to start the bike . So I go into the troubleshooting again. I jumpered power from a truck battery to the starter and the starter turns over. So the starter is good. The problem has to be in the wiring or Starter relay/solenoid or the clutch switch or starter button. I tie wraped the start button and clutch down to close those switches. Voltage at the battery is 13+VDC, voltage at starter relay 13+VDC, voltage at clutch switch connector and start button connector 13+VDC. As I am measuring voltage plugging and unplugging stuff I move the plug for the clutch switch to plug it back in and the starter turns the motor over. I looked at the clutch connector and it looks flimsy so I replaced the pin connector with a spade connector. Bike starts up and I ride it for a day or two.. Today I go out to check that the starter is still working and Nothing. Since I found a problem with connector on the clutch switch, I pulled the headlight plastic to access the wiring in that area. I inspected the replaced connector on the clutch switch and the connection for the starter button. When I move the connection for the starter button the starter engaged . So the bike is starting again on the Majic button again. But I may need to replace the connector on the starter switch also. When I pull the headlight off I have been letting the headlight rest on the front fender and it sometimes falls off the fender and dangles by the wiring. This probably has weakened both the starter button switch connector and clutch switch connector. So the lesson here is to be more careful when I remove the headlight. Hold the headlight up with something so it wont dangle by the wiring.
  7. BRP27

    Head porting/Top end (pic heavy)

    That is low hours but I have 4 bikes and I have to ride the others also
  8. BRP27

    Honda CRF250X (2004)

    0 comments

    Clean 04 CRF 250X 05 CRF250R Head and Cam and Wisco piston The second pic is of CRF50s(kids are supposed to ride but we race them in the yard) a DRZ125 (wife's ride) and a DRZ400SM (my sons) and a 04 Tacoma hauler
  9. BRP27

    Honda CRF250X 2004

    Clean 04 CRF 250X 05 CRF250R Head and Cam and Wisco piston The second pic is of CRF50s(kids are supposed to ride but we race them in the yard) a DRZ125 (wife's ride) and a DRZ400SM (my sons) and a 04 Tacoma hauler
  10. BRP27

    Head porting/Top end (pic heavy)

    I did this Head Work and piston back in 2008 and the bike has 25.7 hrs on it since the work. I am very pleased with how the bike runs.I have done nothing to the bike except change the oil/filter and replaced tires. Thanks for all the positive comments
  11. BRP27

    Magic Button trouble shooting

    MG63 I did a resistance test of the switches and then did a voltage test. In the post above I mentioned that the voltages were getting smaller(dropping) as I moved thru the circuit. By the time I got to the starter button the voltage had dropped to zero. I was testing for voltage entering and leaving each switch to ground. And I saw the drop adding up as I moved thru the circuit. Where you are saying measure across each component. I understand your comment and mis-stated that the switches were good after the resistance test. Voltage Drop Testing would have been the right test to determine if the switches were good. Thanks for the comment
  12. BRP27

    Decision to make - valves

    I replaced the head on my 04CRF250X with a new 07 CRF250R head from Service Honda and put in SS intake valves and stock Honda exhaust valves. I also put in a 05 CRF250R cam. I had torque wrenchs and hand tools, I had to buy a valve compression tool, dont remember the costs on any of this because I did this back in 2008. I also was concerned about the SS intake valves hurting performance but I never noticed anything other than the performance improvement due to the R head and cam. I polished the head pasages on the exhaust and cleaned the casting up on the intake. The bottom line is if it is valve time just replace the head with a new one, put in the valves yourself. And why not upgrade to R head and cam. The bike is still managable on trails and its better on a track. But I like to "improve " everything I drive or ride.
  13. BRP27

    Magic Button trouble shooting

    Went out to start the bike after a long winter and the magic button does nothing. No clicking nothing, battery was on a trickle charger but the connection to the battery was broken. Take the battery out charge the battery on a bigger charger, and fix the smart (dumb) charger connection. Try to start the bike with the button, nothing. Read thru all the posts on this forum and there were a lot that ended with the battery is the problem. Took the battery out and had it tested at the local auto parts store. They had a tester with no lower test capacity than 100 CCA the battery was 50 CCA. Went ahead and tested it at 100 CCA since they had a new battery in stock suprised me that the battery tested good at 100CCA. So back to the garage , put 12 VDC on the coil terminals of the Start Relay and it actuated as it should..Tested clutch switch off the bike with an Ohm meter, contact was working. Tested start button off the bike with the Ohm meter and it tested sat (contact changed state). With the battery out of the bike I jumpered 12VDC from another battery to the starter motor, which engaged the starter and the engine turned over. So I figured the parts were good so it must be a broken or shorted wire. Now I put the battery back in the bike and started measuring voltages in the circuit for the starter relay. Using the Wiring Diagram in the owners manual I first measured volage coming into the clutch switch, it was 12.8VDC. coming out of the clutch switch the voltage was 9.7VDC with the switch actuated. I thought that was wierd that the voltage was lower when the switch tested good with an Ohm meter, did I need a new switch? I next measured the voltage going into the Starter Switch and it was 8.7 VDC ( wierd, why the drop in voltage) . Now I measured the voltage coming out of the Starter Switch and (get ready) it was 0 VDC> How could this be true. I must also need a new Starter Switch . I took the Starter switch out of the bike and tested it with and Ohm meter ( testing that when the switch was pushed the contact closed showing 00.0 Ohms) . It tested fine. I decieded that I could start throwing money at new parts or put it back together and do some thinking. I decieded to put it back together and think about what I had seen. When I was putting the Starter Relay back in I noticed the power lead to the battery was moving and the other lead went to the starter. So this is how the power gets to the starter but what completes the circuit ? The ground from the battery to the motor was the answer . I had not checked the ground on the motor. So I am taking the ground lead off of the motor and find some dirt on the connection and on the threads of the screw (hey its a dirt bike). I move the connection to clean it with brake cleaner in a can. Put every thing back together and push the Magic Button and Magic happened. The Starter turned the engine over normal. IT WAS THE GROUND WIRE on the engine all along!!!! The wierd voltages were telling me that the ground was bad but I didn't figure it out until after the fact. The Magic button had been working intermittent which was also a clue that something was up but I would just kick start when the button didn't work. So if your magic button does not work check the battery and check the Ground on the motor. It is probably not the clutch switch, the start button or the starter relay! Save yourself some money check the battery on a Battery Tester (the smart chargers dont work for this). Check you ground connection! The ground on the motor is on the left side of motor ,almost under the cam chain tensioner.
  14. BRP27

    riding pictures

    I like your riding style
  15. BRP27

    pictures from cycle ranch

    really cool pictures
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